short bury?

JDT3120

JDT3120

Location
Medina, Ohio
My PI came with a large eye splice that I was never quite happy with (bumpy). Since I didn't know how to splice, I just had to deal with it. Now I can splice so that sucker got the axe!

I cut it 16" from the throat to make sure I missed the bury. After I removed the whip/stitch, the whole thing pulled apart with almost no effort. Is this normal? I lined up the core with the cover and it looks to me like the core tail was buried short? Here is a link to the pics. Opinions?
 
Looks to me that the crossover could have been buried deep. It looks as if it got sucked in the throat by about 2 1/2" to 3".... And yes the core bury looks shallow as well. Saying all of this I'm still a beginner to splicing. Could too much milk in the cover pull the core out a little and suck the crossover in more?

I just did a double braid 10mm beeline splice. The tapered core in the cover came out to about 2 1/2" Poison ivy is a 11.7mm line so one would think that the short fid there would be closer to 3" (guessing)
 
The crossover was buried enough but the core bury had crept up into the eye of the splice (or so it would appear to me). I use the samson directions which calls for a 1/3 fid core bury, but bury 1/2 fid just in case.

I've been using .5" fid measurements for 11.7mm PI. I figure more is better, right?
 
[ QUOTE ]
My PI came with a large eye splice that I was never quite happy with (bumpy). Since I didn't know how to splice, I just had to deal with it. Now I can splice so that sucker got the axe!

I cut it 16" from the throat to make sure I missed the bury. After I removed the whip/stitch, the whole thing pulled apart with almost no effort. Is this normal? I lined up the core with the cover and it looks to me like the core tail was buried short? Here is a link to the pics. Opinions?

[/ QUOTE ]

I've raised this issue before. Unfortunately there is no straight answer to be had. Splices are supposed to be done to manufacturers specs and that is not. As far as I'm concerned there is an obvious pattern of improper splicing at the Sherrill shop.
 
I don't want to be annoying but could you post a pic that has the numbers and writing on the tag clearly visible. Its so people can clearly see that it came from Sherrill.


I completely agree with your assumption. I think the core bury was not long enough to stay trapped in the throat so it crept into the eye causing it to bulge. The Sherrill people will deny this though.
 
I tried, the macro on my camera is lame. To be fair, I'm pretty sure the rope in question had been sitting at vermeer for quite some time. Possibly years even. I know Tobe has worked hard to resolve any splicing issues, and it's possible this rope was done before they were aware of a problem. The splice and tag will be sent back and I will be sure to post results when (and if) they become available.
 
Doesn't the serial number on the tag tell the date it was made? Has anyone bought one really recently that they can look at so we can compare the numbers?

love
nick
 
i just asked splicing pros to examine the note and get back to me with their review. Our splicer first spliced and then disassembled his work to review exactly what this poster was seeing.

The recommended bury is indeed 3-inches, unfortunately, when extracted from it's finished position it may not look so. Once the core is removed it is rather easy to produce a misreading on measurements once crammed into confinement. He said one problem is that an examiner might lay the core to the outside of the jacket instead of on top, skewing the length. Secondly, when stuffing a rope with core and cover (as with the finished splice) one component of formula dramatically shortens up.

I would welcome anyone to perform the same exercise on a factory supplied splice (from Yale) and post the results.

As for the product's age, that is embedded in the end of the serial number (poster supplanted with xxx).

We always have and always will treat every splice like our own lives rest on it.

Best to all.
 
Tobe,

Thank you for the quick reply. I posted the xxx with the uncertainty of whether or not you wanted it made public. The last three digits are 408. As you can see in the first picture, I made sure to line up the core with the cover perfectly. Before I took the splice apart, there was a noticeable bump in the standing end of the eye, right above the throat of the splice.

According to my very amateur evaluation, the bump was from the core pulling out of the throat and bunching in the eye. As I said in the PM, I would be more than happy to send the splice and tag in for a more professional examination. My regret is that I didn't take pictures prior to the autopsy and/or send the splice in whole.

The ease in which it pulled apart after removing the whip/lock is what worries me the most. Again, this was after I had chopped the splice so it may have made it easier. To confirm this, I put the knife to one of my first splices that was a little bumpy from a weak core taper. After removing the WL, I was unable to pull the splice apart. Conclusive? Most certainly not. Had the whipping come apart during use, would it have failed? I can't answer that question, which is my main concern.

I, like most people in here, have been very happy with your products and service and will continue to do business with you in the future. Just so we're all clear, this is in no way an attempt to slander or solicit free gear. I look at it as a learning opportunity and expect nothing but an answer to whether or not the splice *was* safe to climb on.

You have my email addy and I would be more than happy to pm you my number if you want to discuss further. Thanks again for your involvement in such matters. Speaks volumes.

Loyal customer,

Justin Terepka
 
I forgot to add in that the test I did was with a tight eye so that may had made a difference also. I don't use large eyes and I'm not willing to splice one up just so I can hack it off
 
Dear Justin,

Thanks for your mannered response.

To answer your main concern; no, the splice would not come apart were you to cut or even remove the lock stitching, at least not quickly and most certainly not without a visually alarming lengthening of the splice. Lock stitching is there to hold the splice from loosening under low load situations and to provide a visual indicator of splice overload.

As for further evaluation, there's not a lot I can gather from your splice post dissection. Please, in the future, be one of many to trust us to properly evaluate and resolve any problem(s) you might have. Believe it or not, we can be trusted.

Climb safe,

Tobe
 
Tobe,

Thanks again for your quick resolution of this matter. As it was apparently safe to climb on, I am not too worried about it.

Regardless, I will be climbing on my own splices from now on. There is just something about a perfectly tapered, long core bury that really appeals to me
smirk.gif


Keep on keepin' on,

Justin
 
Just as we don't stray from a short bury based on (detailed) manufacturer's specs, i wouldn't advise straying to a long bury for the same reason. Some of these splices are quite technical and may have nuances tied to splice mechanics that you can't determine without considerable splicing experience as well as a good testing procedure.

I've read before that certain companies charge people to break test products, but that's not interesting to me. i can see far more advantage in testing than associated revenues. if we could get coordinated about it (sounds easy...) then i would really like to open up the valve to breaking used hardware with our 50-ton machine. Fodder for another thread?

t
 
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