seld advancing distel

was playing round today, dont know if anyone does this but i haven't heard it mentioned before. Only tried this out low level, seemed safe enough though. I attached the midline to the distel/pulley krab with a clove hitch. If anyone can suggest a better knot/krab combo would be appreciated. Although it worked fine it didn't quite sit right. anyway it advances well, just like using a lock jack, and once you make a descent it easily unclips to be put back in a split tail.
 
I could just reach it where it was robert, but i needn't have had it set quite so far away. it could have been closer and still left plenty of length to get a good pull.
i was looking at the butterfly in the tree climbers companion hillbilly. Never used the knot before. perhaps i'll give it a go tomorrow
 
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
I wouldn't trust a clove hitch in a situation like that.

[/ QUOTE ]

Nothing wrong with a clove hitch there. I trust my life to it all the time in rock-climbing, and it's easily adjustable to finetune the position.

But the advantage of a fixed midline loop like the butterfly is that you could more easily unclip the biner with the system weighted if necessary.

- Robert
 
Why not use a prussik loop instaed of a knot, this would make it adjustable, you could keep the hitch in close for working, and move it out a bit when ascending.
Mahk Adams has a similiar set up, he sent me some pics of a while back, I cant seem to find them. i think his system was the same but with a blakes hitch not a distel. I think it should still work though.
 
noiw that I think about it... I believe Mahk had an article published about this set-up a year or two ago in TCI mag. Ill see if I still have it
 
Re: self advancing distel

robert, why would you want to unclip this under tension, unless commiting suicide?

when playing with adjustable bridges, I feel it is important to use stop knots to limit the possible length of the bridge. Either you could slide down so you can't reach the knot to descend, or you could drop to the ground.

I know that the origional post was not about an adjustable bridge, I just know that's where this thread is heading.

Dave
 
Re: self advancing distel

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
why would you want to unclip this under tension, unless commiting suicide?

[/ QUOTE ]

Dave,
You're right on about safety.

Since the picture that Steve posted looked like the hitch was about out of reach already, I was thinking about having to convert to descent and being able to reach the biner but not the hitch. Or getting the bridge jambed on a branch and unable to continue ascending.

You could tie another hitch closer to the harness, unclip the biner to the out-of-reach or jambed hitch and continue.

Since I'm not an arborist, this is all just speculation. But that's my $.02

BTW, I've done hundreds of hanging belays tied in to my anchor with only a clove hitch and never experienced the tiniest bit of slippage.

- Robert
 
Re: self advancing distel

I've used Mark Adams adjustable bridge setup a few times. A hard attachment point (alp butterfly, clove, etc), is safer than a prussic which could get away from you...not a good thing. Since I rarely body thrust with hands below the knot, or very far, I seldom bother with the setup. But it sure is slick.

Hey Rob, sorry for the off topic, but have you seen any pics from the Bugaboos? The best climb I ever did was the 5.10 20 pitch Beckey/ chounaird route on South Howser Tower.
I have done very little climbing since 1985...older, busier, etc etc excuses excuses....I sure miss it though.

http://www.rockin-the-rockies.freeservers.com/photo6.html
http://naclassics.com/climbs/sohowser/
 
Re: self advancing distel

i've had some good luck with a self advancing VT, with Knut type self tending strategy in one leg forming a half hitch pusher/tender ring under the VT; letting the half hitch embrace both the host line and the other leg of the VT just like the Knut does under the short Frenchy stack, so essentially could be viewed as a Knut with braids inbetween the tending ring and the short stack of coils(4). Especially good if i twist each braid around itself to bulk the braid, stiffening the push through the braids by the tending ring to the above short stack.

When needing an extended bridge (not often), i would take my 48" Lifeline redirect/shorty lanyard sling and carabiner set and doulbe over to 24" long with center D's in the loop, both ends in the carabiner. If i needed to contract it, just draw the carabiner straight to the D's to clip (with seperate tie in while un linked, even though short time and not really disconnected with this strategy).
 
&gt;&gt; I wouldn't trust a clove hitch in a situation like that.
&gt;
&gt; Nothing wrong with a clove hitch there.

Au contraire, that there "clove hitch" in the photo is hardly,
barely, discernable as such--it's nearly opened to the point
of collapsing the gate!
.:. Quite a bit wrong!
--i.p., wrong orientation of the knot on the 'biner:
it SHOULD be tied so that the crossing/riding turn lies
outside of the 'biner, not inside.

As for using the clove w/o slipping, note that the Lyon report
found no slippage in the one climbing rope they used, but variable
slippage (i.e., coming at well different loads, per rope or per test)
in the few low-elongation ropes tested. .:. YMMV !

--knudeNoggin
 
Re: self advancing distel

That hitch worked great for me. Tending was a dream come true. It did not get to tieght or get to loose. And needed little attention.

Thanks,
Jack
 
Re: self advancing distel

Great! i dropped a note to John about perhaps posting these here, then i jest had to steal'em from AS!

The VT takes on even more fine tuning with these optional strategies to fit your style IMLHO.
 

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Re: self advancing distel

I used the 'black' version because of the length of my piece. It is only 30". I'll keep using that until I get more cord.

Good stuff,
Jack
 

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