Saw in my leg

The saw was a Husqvarna 372xp. It was definitely too much saw for what I was doing. It was simply what I had at the time.
Thanks! And no criticism from me, I used a 462 for limbing every day until I bought another ground saw. Still do sometimes.

If clogger Pete is willing, are you open to this thread veering toward a technical discussion on saw protection? This thread started with your blood, and I want to respect that.
 
I file my chains on my personal saws as well as on my personal t540i that I use at work but company policy is to just swap chains. We're paid well, above industry standard, and a new chain is cheaper than the labor + down time at the work site to sharpen one, especially a longer one.
Especially if a grinder is available, but if no grinder, the chain still needs tending at some point for many businesses - not if slowing up crew onsite - but at end of day is just more work than needs to be allocated...
 
Thanks! And no criticism from me, I used a 462 for limbing every day until I bought another ground saw. Still do sometimes.

If clogger Pete is willing, are you open to this thread veering toward a technical discussion on saw protection? This thread started with your blood, and I want to respect that.
That’s perfectly fine with me. I posted this because it was a learning opportunity for me and I’m hoping others can learn from my mistake.
In regards to Cloggers protecting my leg, they did exactly what they were designed to do. I think the pic of my wound looks worse than it actually is. It’s truly just a scratch. The chain stopped immediately, but due to how I was swinging the saw that is why I have a cut. The threads were so jammed in my sprocket that it took some doing to get it all cleaned out.
 
Please elaborate. I did for my whole career and never had a cut
They’re inefficient for ground work, and require too much stooping over to limb stuff. That comment had nothing to do with potential of bodily harm. Ridiculous to use a mini saw on the ground when you’ve likely got multiple more appropriate saws on your truck across the yard.
 
They’re inefficient for ground work, and require too much stooping over to limb stuff. That comment had nothing to do with potential of bodily harm. Ridiculous to use a mini saw on the ground when you’ve likely got multiple more appropriate saws on your truck across the yard.
True with bigger wood, but most urban wood I find the top handle waaayyy quicker as a limbing saw, wrist rotation is way faster than the two handed grip saw as the positional requirements are way slower...

Wood in tangled heaps I still prefer the top handle, but talking bigger wood, sure go for the ground saw...
 
They’re inefficient for ground work, and require too much stooping over to limb stuff. That comment had nothing to do with potential of bodily harm. Ridiculous to use a mini saw on the ground when you’ve likely got multiple more appropriate saws on your truck across the yard.
I’ll take an 8lb saw over a 12lb saw when the power isn’t needed bub. Can also cut firewood out of limbs much faster with a top handle I’ve been told...
 
I’ll take an 8lb saw over a 12lb saw when the power isn’t needed bub. Can also cut firewood out of limbs much faster with a top handle I’ve been told...
Ok bub. This shit has gone too far, people take things way to literally on the internet. I don’t need every internet treebuzz jockey explaining how, when, and what chainsaw to use. I get it bub.
 
I’ll take an 8lb saw over a 12lb saw when the power isn’t needed bub. Can also cut firewood out of limbs much faster with a top handle I’ve been told...
A 462 weighs 13lbs for the power head only..... Better start doing some curls if you plan on putting a bar and chain on there bub.....
 
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Ok bub. This shit has gone too far, people take things way to literally on the internet. I don’t need every internet treebuzz jockey explaining how, when, and what chainsaw to use. I get it bub.
Didnt you take this path against using top handles on the ground? All part of good discussion...
 
Saws are for wood, silly! Glad you got off light, still take care if that wound as your aren’t out of the woods yet.

Big saw vs little saw? I nearly always reach for a bigger saw for limbing, and general ground saw use. Something in the 25-28” bar range. The little saws are for in tree, fuck bending over more than you have to. I argue this a common mistake and one of the first mistakes in poor work positioning and fatigue.
 
They’re inefficient for ground work, and require too much stooping over to limb stuff. That comment had nothing to do with potential of bodily harm. Ridiculous to use a mini saw on the ground when you’ve likely got multiple more appropriate saws on your truck across the yard.
I wouldn’t paint with such a wide brush. I commonly will keep my 020 by the chipper, and also use it for felling up to 16” trees.. round here a 16” tree can be 80’
Not to mention a ‘boys’ axe on a 32” handle for delimbing to save on fuel. Hell I’ve use the axe in place as a wedge and pounded with a chunk of wood.
 
Saws are for wood, silly! Glad you got off light, still take care if that wound as your aren’t out of the woods yet.

Big saw vs little saw? I nearly always reach for a bigger saw for limbing, and general ground saw use. Something in the 25-28” bar range. The little saws are for in tree, fuck bending over more than you have to. I argue this a common mistake and one of the first mistakes in poor work positioning and fatigue.
Work positioning is situational in that if kneeling using a top handle the work positioning is probably better and safer than limbing with a longer bar chainsaw standing upright - although I must say I care neither which method is used.

The long bar on a larger saw is faster in the cut though - so if very hard wood is encountered I will go the larger saw anyway, as I don’t like getting a top handle chain hot - I have just had to linish a light bar on a top handle because if that very thing - the plastic centre melting and protruding enough to interfere with the cut...
 
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