Saw cutting crooked

MTCInc

MTCInc

Location
Bay Area, California
We do not use big saws very often, mainly because 95% of our work is pruning. But, on occasion, we will do some removals. We have quite a few saws, and our biggest is a 660 w/a 32" bar on it. This saw is primarily used to quarter wood so we can load it into the truck. Question: The chain is sharp, bar not that old, and the saw is in excellent condition. But, the bar is now cutting crooked, to the point it gets stuck in the kerf. Is this due to the chain guide getting out of square? If so, what can I do about it, other then replacing the bar? Last time I picked it up was after one of the guys had used it with the chain WAY too loose. The bar looks straight, so the only problem I can see is an out of square guide.
 
more then likly you have worn the bar rails uneven from cross cutting. Saws where not designed to cut against the grain, it knocks the edge right off normal chain and puts a burr on the bar or wears it uneven. Though they do make a cross cut chain, this will help not wear out the bar as fast. Or you have a nasty burr on the bar that needs to be filed off.
 
Flat filing the top rails, straightening the rails using a bar rail roller or a feeler gauge and hammer and finishing with a flat file to the face of the bar will give you a basis for the next step.

More often the depth gauges/rakers aren't even on both sides of the chain.

Take some time to read Tim Ard's Forest Apps website for some good information about saw care.

http://www.forestapps.com/
 
Like tom said, the rakers are uneven, or a nasty burr on the bar, or it is slightly bent. Best of luck!!
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Saws where not designed to cut against the grain, it knocks the edge right off normal chain and puts a burr on the bar or wears it uneven. Though they do make a cross cut chain, this will help not wear out the bar as fast. Or you have a nasty burr on the bar that needs to be filed off.

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Huh? That's exactly what chainsaws were designed to do; cross cut or cut against the grain. I think you are getting cross cutting confused with "ripping". And they DO make ripping chains. But they are really not needed. Lay the log on it's side to rip, not on end. Ripping this way creates loooonnnng wood shavings. Sometimes too long to exit fast enough to keep up with the ripping cut. Be aware!
The binding (cutting on a curve)problem could be; improper sharpening; improper depth gauge clearance; bar wear; sprocket wear or a combination of any of those.
If the saw is used to flush stumps, the down side cutters usually get dull quicker then the up side cutters. If the same # of file strokes are used to resharpen, the down side cutters don't get the same edge as the up side.
Is it cutting to the left or right? This will help solve the mystery.
 
It is possible if a crooked cutting bar and dull chain combo is used too long for the bottom of the chain links to wear unevenly. It's another chain spec. to consider. If this happens it's time for a new chain.
 
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Huh? That's exactly what chainsaws were designed to do; cross cut or cut against the grain. I think you are getting cross cutting confused with "ripping".

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Doh!

what he said
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I've got to say this .... if you are in this business and you cannot figure out how to make a long bar/chain cut maybe some help from a logger or competent saw shop is in order.... this is basic stuff !
 
If I might add my thoughts.

Remember, there are many things to think of when a saw is cutting crooked. The easiest thing to fix is the height of the depth guides (many of us call them rakers even though they do not "rake" out the chips) like Tom mentioned. This will help if, and this is only if, the cutting teeth are filed correctly. Correctly means first and most important, the side angle of the tooth. If the angles are not matching on both sides, then the more steeply angled (an angle closer to parallel with the guide bar) teeth will pull to that side more than the opposite side pulls to its own side, thus causing the saw to cut crooked.

To my knowledge, running with a loose chain will not cause a saw to start cutting crooked, it only hammers the bar rails more at the tip and at the power unit end on the top of the bar.

I reccomend the use of the Oregon filing guide for sharpening chain. It has rollers to guide the round file in the correct angles and also has a plate for gauging the depth gauges.

Good luck finding the real answer to your cutting problem. Remember to try the simplest and cheapest solutions first.
 
Like I said ... this is basic stuff ... the proper set and hone of the chisel teeth as well as the relationship to raker height and profile as wear ensues .... the maintenance of the guide bar as well BASIC STUFF , call me when you have a real problem ...DAVE
 
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Like I said ... this is basic stuff ... the proper set and hone of the chisel teeth as well as the relationship to raker height and profile as wear ensues .... the maintenance of the guide bar as well BASIC STUFF , call me when you have a real problem ...DAVE

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Sorry I have offended you Dave. Thanks for your excellent input.

Everyone else, thanks for the suggestions. The chain is razor sharp, and the rakers are at the correct depth. I was suspect of the rails being out of square, and I was thinking the chain being loose would wear one side too much, causing the chain to ride heavily on one side, making a crooked cut.

I flipped the bar, and the saw worked great. UNTIL, my other guy got ahold of it. The chain was sagging off the bar last time I used it after him, so I attributed the problem to a too loose chain. I guess its time to work on the bar.
 
HEY MTC , you did not offend....I am sorry to be short with you .... due to current circumstances I have no patience for people who do not know the basics .... it is me not you , to give credit where due at least you know the saw is not cutting correctly .... I have seen dudes who run a dull husky with a loose chain and loose muffler as well as straight gas until said saw was JUNK....DUMBASS ROOKIE.... anyway I apologize .... I'm really not an [bad word] ....
 
what do you mean by basic stuff? as we have heard, there are lots of reasons why it may cut crooked. To me it is pretty complicated and takes years to figure it out just right!

Keeping a big saw cutting good isnt basic stuff. It better not be, because I charge on the fact that it isnt.
 
It'll beat up the bar not cause the banana effect.

Be mindful of your sharpening technique as well. You can readily apply more force pushing toward your body while filing then away from you. To balance this, start on the side that you'll be pushing outward while your arm is "fresh" (specially with a long bar) then go to the other side where you're pushing toward your body. The arms fatigued and thus there is a better balance.

As it was mentioned before the anti-vibe mounts could be worn too.
 
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