rope runner

John_KAYS said:
They are available at SHELTERTree.com
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Hey, John! I'm feeling a little bit slow on the uptake of late. Could you explain the difference in function between the green "Slic-Key Slider" and the Red "Slic-Key Springfire"?

Also, in one of the videos you said the tool does not work on the Singing Tree Quickie anymore, I think. Does either one of the tools still work with the Quickie?

Also, do you know whether or not either version of the Quickie still works with the Rope Runner? I'd like to have a more substantial clip-in point for my device tender, if possible. Thanks to John in advance, or anyone else that feels they have answers to my questions.

Tim
 
TimBr said:
Hey, John! I'm feeling a little bit slow on the uptake of late. Could you explain the difference in function between the green "Slic-Key Slider" and the Red "Slic-Key Springfire"?

Also, in one of the videos you said the tool does not work on the Singing Tree Quickie anymore, I think. Does either one of the tools still work with the Quickie?

Also, do you know whether or not either version of the Quickie still works with the Rope Runner? I'd like to have a more substantial clip-in point for my device tender, if possible. Thanks to John in advance, or anyone else that feels they have answers to my questions.

Tim
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The Springfire has a spring in it that does the push action for you, the Slider has the push rod that you have to manually push for the action. They both work on the Rope Wrench and the Rope Runner, however the spring has to be compressed further with the longer pins on the Rope Runner and therefore creates more resistance and is not as easy to slide onto the slic pin. I prefer the Slider for the Runner and the Springfire for the Wrench. If I had to pick one I would use the Slider for both.

The pin diameter on the Quickie had to be increased slightly and is now too big to fit the same key that works on the Runner and the Wrench.

I haven't tried the larger diameter pin in the Rope Runner yet, but I would assume it would be too large for that application also. Anyone else know this?
 
John_KAYS said:
The Springfire has a spring in it that does the push action for you, the Slider has the push rod that you have to manually push for the action. They both work on the Rope Wrench and the Rope Runner, however the spring has to be compressed further with the longer pins on the Rope Runner and therefore creates more resistance and is not as easy to slide onto the slic pin. I prefer the Slider for the Runner and the Springfire for the Wrench. If I had to pick one I would use the Slider for both.

The pin diameter on the Quickie had to be increased slightly and is now too big to fit the same key that works on the Runner and the Wrench.

I haven't tried the larger diameter pin in the Rope Runner yet, but I would assume it would be too large for that application also. Anyone else know this?
Click to expand...

A slight bit of modification to the runner allows the new quickie pin to fit. basically just enough drilling to removed the anodizing from inside the hole. No idea if it's approved or not, but it does work and in my opinion removed so little metal as to be a non issue. we're only talking about ~1/32 of an inch at best
 
Thanks, @John_KAYS. Thanks, @theatertech87. Thanks, @treebing.

Hey, Kevin! Do you have any idea when the newly minted Quickies will become available? Also, will there be some kind of indicator in the ad copy to let us know that these quickies will fit in the Rope Runner? Thanks in advance for taking the time, if you get the chance to answer my questions.

Tim
 
theatertech87 said:
Darn, and here I jumped the gun and modified mine
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It was a bold move, and it allows you to use the Quickie you've already got right now for the Rope Runner you've already got. I'm betting that you're right about it doing no harm, also. Just no telling when the next iteration of Quickie will be available.

Tim
 
Okay so a few more people have asked about more of these. I am looking but not having much success finding any still around. I can certainly get some more made but for those who have them here is my question... Is the thickness okay (@1/4") or would you like them better if they were about (@1/8" or 3/16"). Also would you prefer Plastic or rubber over the wood. They all have different material thickness but some overlap. The prices all vary considerably so I want to choose what the people like best. Thanks.

20151208_165224-jpg.34835
 
monkeylove said:
Okay so a few more people have asked about more of these. I am looking but not having much success finding any still around. I can certainly get some more made but for those who have them here is my question... Is the thickness okay (@1/4") or would you like them better if they were about (@1/8" or 3/16"). Also would you prefer Plastic or rubber over the wood. They all have different material thickness but some overlap. The prices all vary considerably so I want to choose what the people like best. Thanks.

20151208_165224-jpg.34835
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Frank, they work real well with a strong epoxy. However, the walnut blanks always seem to break off when I'm doing spar work and the runner is snugged up on the bark : (

I wonder if a hard rubber would create a better bond on the aluminum bird? You'd know better than I
 
If the bird is 3/8" in dia. you could have a mechanical connection with a threaded stainless steel stud, like on the Bulldog Bone, and you can do red locktite on the threads also. Mike put me on to the rubber bumpers which can be found in various sizes at McMaster.
 
surveyor said:
If the bird is 3/8" in dia. you could have a mechanical connection with a threaded stainless steel stud, like on the Bulldog Bone, and you can do red locktite on the threads also. Mike put me on to the rubber bumpers which can be found in various sizes at McMaster.
Click to expand...

I agree Gordon, there are far better methods then adhesive. I just don't know that they would be user friendly for everyone. Adhesive while questionable at times is something everyone can handle without tools.
 
I like them but they do break. I would change the orientation of the grain with the cut. I believe it's currently horizontal with the mounting. Maybe changing it 90 degrees would do it. I also use J B Weld 2 part epoxy. It's held better than anything i've tried. I personally like the wood. I round it, sand it and clear coat it for some shine. I'd love more!!!!!! I vote for the wood myself.
 
Steve Connally said:
I like them but they do break. I would change the orientation of the grain with the cut. I believe it's currently horizontal with the mounting. Maybe changing it 90 degrees would do it. I also use J B Weld 2 part epoxy. It's held better than anything i've tried. I personally like the wood. I round it, sand it and clear coat it for some shine. I'd love more!!!!!! I vote for the wood myself.
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I will take a look at 45 & 90 Steve. Thanks. There are a few other solid wood options he has also. If you can think of some species that might be better than Walnut let me know and I will see if he has it. They are cut from Hardwood floor strips so that may limit some of the choices.
 
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