Rope Runner

I cant wait to add one to my kit, I'm so jealous right now. Got to see one and play with it a little bit but now I'm just itching. " I've got a fever and the only remedy is more Rope Runner!"

Cheers
Ben
 
For all you RR guys and gals I have some tidbits.

1/4" rubber air hose can be wetted and tapped on to the bird ends. It adds a little cushion and arch for your fingers. I put them on both sides and I can still squeeze my Vortex through so smaller ropes should be cake.

If you have a few oval carabiners around do yourself a favor and try a few. I found that a round biner as compared to a "D" seemed to adjust the pulley just enough to add a little friction and slightly lessen the bird release pressure. I found a shackle 3/8" shackle had a similar effect.
 
We're thinking in the same direction. I dipped mine in Plasti Dip. It has three coats in this photo and I just dipped it a fourth time.

I suspect it will not be durable enough and may peal off. If that happens, I'll try your hose fix. Thanks. If you cut the back edge on an angle it would give a little more coverage.

IMG_4732 (Small).webp
 
I thought about Plasti Dip but had the same fear. I've been machining some one off custom parts and sharing those concepts with Kevin, but I am trying to keep my mods on here to stuff that is simple, cheap, and can be done without an entire machine shop, lol.
 
yoyoman said:
Add the "hump" and the bird is so smooth and easy to operate you will not need a cushion on the wings.
Click to expand...

I have a milling machine and will get bored this winter. Anyone see a problem using the 6065 T6511 aluminum I have on hand in this application?

Of course, if Kevin made a modified part with the hump, I could buy one.;)
 
hahaha :D

How many innovations are we going to continue to discover because you got a dremel, gears and no paranoia when it comes to drill an ascender ? ^^

That's something i think a lot since i've discovered your work : you also got the luck to not be enclosed by standards like EN. You're free to think more than we can here.
 
gmcttr, I have been using 6061 that I have laying around, as long as you stay low and slow you will be fine. I also have been slowly leaving more metal. More is not needed, but less machining is just quicker. Think Triangle and I leave the biner area solid. The original has a lot of weight reduction and cool factors but for tweeking at the moment I am just simplifying.
 
monkeylove said:
gmcttr, I have been using 6061 that I have laying around, as long as you stay low and slow you will be fine. I also have been slowly leaving more metal. More is not needed, but less machining is just quicker. Think Triangle and I leave the biner area solid. The original has a lot of weight reduction and cool factors but for tweeking at the moment I am just simplifying.
Click to expand...
Frank,I love it. I was going to try to make a hump that had a concave shape to help keep your line from going flat.

Now I need some recommendations for a milling machine!!!!!
 
See now that's funny Rich, I find that my softer ropes that flattened also had better friction than my harder/rounder ropes. Some of that might change with a concaved face though as that would increase the surface area of contact.

As far as machines go that really depends on a lot. The easy answer is a used Bridgeport knee style, any clones will also work. It is the basic starting point for 2d & 2-1/2d work.
 
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