Rigging gear

LordFarkwad said:
Ultrasling with one big ring in it the way to go?
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Sure, the longer the better.

I like dead eye type ones but I have a small ultra sling with Xring, I’d use it more if it was longer than 4’. Eventually I’ll buy a bigger one probably.
I also have a whoopie sling with ring. It’s not as easy to adjust once it’s choked as I expected and I spend more time trying to get it just right than I ever did with a dead eye type with timber hitch. Probably just me... whoopies are new to me, so I’ll play with it some more before I give up.
 
All right folks. Thanks for the help! It looks like i’ll go with ring slings, True Blue, and porty and sling. I’ll stay away from loopie and whoopies. I’ll save up for the sexy blocks when skill improves and jobs get more complicated.

I am not going to rig out the dead pine as I talked to my client and we have a plan to protect his driveway.

I really appreciate the advice.

Thanks!
 
I don’t know the elongation numbers on true blue, but BRW has it beat in tensile, while maintaining some stretch as well. Both are great for natty and light rigging, just choose which best fits.
 
LordFarkwad said:
Can X-Rigging Rings be double-fisherman'd onto a sling, versus having to splice them in?
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So... I have had good results doing this a few times. I think you're not supposed to because of the way that the cinch is being pulled sideways from both sides as it tightens.
I had one on a 5/8 kernmantle that I was using as a ground set/retrieve rigging point, and I lowered a few things that I should not have lowered on a half inch line running through a medium ring.
I think it works. Your experience may vary. Splices are prettier.
 
B_Strange said:
Good thought on armoring the drop zone. The pine is around 30-40 feet tall and 20” around.
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Easy to protect for a dead pine that size.
Check you roots. Careful about rocking the tree.
Utility/ shop grade plywood is available here, from a local plywood manufacturer.
OSB cut in half, doubled up, with branches on it, $12. Maybe ratchet strapped bundle to keep it tight. That's a short distance for that short of a spar. Seems like you only have to chunk down firewood rounds a bit. That top won't hurt a driveway. If the guy is anal, lay out the plywood, and drop the butt of the top on that.


P.S. On the solo rigging note, if you're crafty, and cut a stub so that you can wrap the stub a number of times to lock itself off, you can descend, then from the ground, with good flipping, unwrap the stub (horizontal works nicely) enough to lower and land a big piece.

Solo rigging doesn't have to be small.

End of the day, I rigged a couple maple trunks over the service drop. Chill.
 
Thanks for the advice folks. I got a Notch Porty and pocket sling, medium Notch ring sling and 200’ of Samson Arbormaster in the Hawkeye color for light rigging. The job went super smooth. Got a new job coming up and thinking about a DMM Captain Hook to help move through the tree. Any tips on setting on up? Pinto pulley and hitch like a lanyard?
 
I use a small ring (kind of like an x ring style but much smaller) to tend mine. Works great and is lightweight and compact. The hook is a cool tool, I shouldve bought one before. We do a lot of view enhancement and you can hit alot of trees without ever touching the ground.
 
Z'sTrees said:
I use a small ring (kind of like an x ring style but much smaller) to tend mine. Works great and is lightweight and compact. The hook is a cool tool, I shouldve bought one before. We do a lot of view enhancement and you can hit alot of trees without ever touching the ground.
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Cool! Thanks! I’ve been wanting one for awhile and the past two jobs really could have used one.
 
evo said:
You can use a 1/2" with a figure 8 and web sling at the high point.
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Could you elaborate on this? I love figure-8's but can't find use for mine besides long descents :/ I have been thinking more than I care to admit about incorporating them into my rigging setups though, I've stopped using pulleys entirely (excepting mechanical advantage setups, I'm a fan of pull-overs when possible!) and am using friction-rings, the wide type not thin like o-rings although where possible I'm adding my double o-ring false-crotch as a 2nd 'equalizing' top anchor, usually there's not a great spot so I'll add it where I can if-possible even if it's just there for some extra friction and line-direction....but the 8's....I've been thinking to tether one by the basal anchor and run the line through it, giving a fixed-friction almost like a portawrap only not-adjustable (on-the-fly at least), but your using it at the high point intrigues me because I keep thinking you want to keep any real friction away from the top (to ease stress on the top anchor, as well as to have a good amount of rope-in-system before resistance is met), have also contemplated getting 2 or 3 figure-8's, tethering them to a tree that's adjacent with the line's ascent to its high point, and running the line through them (using the 'bent 8' variety, so the rope touches the metal but not the tree) to get a few extra friction-points on the way up, if you're using wraps on the ground as your primary control (portawrap or, in my case, natural wraps) then any easing you can do on the line is great for your control but I expect it lets you get more use out of a given rope if instead of 1 'end point' there's increased friction as it passes through a couple anchors at the high point, then a few contacts with fig.8's on the way to the portawrap(or trunking), if only the math were easy you could literally control half ton loads by yourself by providing enough friction to the line, although this is something I pictured playing with by the basal anchor to keep as much free rope in-system as possible, real eager to hear your high-point use ;)

(I have a picture somewhere if my "8's up the trunk" idea isn't clear lol :P )
 
So I've tried using a figure-8 as a canopy-anchor when rigging and found that using my bent-8 was superior in that it gave less friction, can't say I liked that much friction up there - Do people here advocate usage of Notch's "Safebloc"? I actually have a chance to get one dirt-cheap right now but IMO that's wayyy too-much friction to have that-early in the system, am all for using a safebloc down low where you'd use a portawrap but not at the canopy, am pretty sure I'm set on getting the 3-headed Rigging Rings 3/4" tenex sling (5' long, "for crotches only" although if I put a prusik on it and choke it around a spar I'm sure it'd more than fine, will double-check 1st of course)

Would love to hear thoughts on Safebloc, the one I can get is just-barely used I had initially dismissed it out-of-hand because I wouldn't use so much friction so early on the bull line but now that I think of it as basal-anchor it seems brilliant, would be awesome to get a good friction-device that's beneath/smaller than a portawrap in-place down low I just have no idea how much friction a Safebloc truly adds, with how much the bent-8 added I fear the Safebloc will be even more friction and I know I wouldn't shock-load my line if it were anchored with a figure-8..
 
If it's dirt cheap, I say get it. I haven't used a Safebloc, but looks like you can just use one of the holes and it should function a lot like a single ring, then 2 or all 3 holes for heavier loads.

I suspect it would suck using it at the base though. No midline hookup, so you'd be fighting hockles and friction when taking slack out and you lose the variable friction you get with half wraps on a porty or bollard. With just a Safebloc and no other friction device sometimes you'll be stuck with too much or not enough friction.
 
I’ve not used the safebloc, but the triple thimble, which is similar, can be a great tool, allowing one ground hand to do the jobs of two since it eliminates the need for a portawrap for a lot of rigging scenarios. It’s not for every situation, but is amazing when applicable.

I’ve rigged without a ground hand on the line until the piece is on the ground. I often take over the line when pieces reach the ground so the ground hand can land the brush. It is more difficult to pull the slack out, but isn’t bad if you work together (climber pulls up tail side, ground hand pulls slack out).

Ground attachment is a poor setup. Just use a portawrap.
 
Also, if you use larger lines for bigger wood, the friction goes up to match the weight. Small lines, low friction; large lines, high friction.
 
I'm not following along with your prusik idea though. Attached how? Prusik hitch on the sling on one end but then what?
Using it to choke on a spar will mean negative rigging, right? I don't think I've ever seen intentional shock loading on prusiks and I suspect the prusik will get damaged. Sounds like a new weak link in the system. If something is gonna break, it needs to be the rope. I'm curious how that'd play out, but I'd suggest just a single big ring or your Safebloc on a dead eye type sling with timber or cow hitch, it's a reliable way to do it and you'll get faster at setting it up.
Or get a whoopie. I like timber hitch over whoopie though.
 
eyehearttrees said:
Could you elaborate on this? I love figure-8's but can't find use for mine besides long descents :/ I have been thinking more than I care to admit about incorporating them into my rigging setups though, I've stopped using pulleys entirely (excepting mechanical advantage setups, I'm a fan of pull-overs when possible!) and am using friction-rings, the wide type not thin like o-rings although where possible I'm adding my double o-ring false-crotch as a 2nd 'equalizing' top anchor, usually there's not a great spot so I'll add it where I can if-possible even if it's just there for some extra friction and line-direction....but the 8's....I've been thinking to tether one by the basal anchor and run the line through it, giving a fixed-friction almost like a portawrap only not-adjustable (on-the-fly at least), but your using it at the high point intrigues me because I keep thinking you want to keep any real friction away from the top (to ease stress on the top anchor, as well as to have a good amount of rope-in-system before resistance is met)

I understand the idea of friction at the top causing more stress on the anchor, but the reality is the opposite. If there is no vector force multiplier in your rigging system there will be less stress on the anchor...more rope in the system can be good. However, in a good dynamic system the amount of rope prior to canopy device is moot because there will not be a significant shock load in the system....granted this is theory and good groundies are often hard to come by
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