Replacement bridge cordage

Z'sTrees said:
Not overkill at all, I prefer a "unicore" type rope where the core and cover are braided together. This gives you a bit of extra security if you were to partially cut the bridge.
I've been using platinum 10.5 and I haven't any reason to change
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I'm also using platinum 10.5, which is standard issue on my onyx saddle. I like the interwoven core/sheath, in theory, but feel like I may also go to a doubled bridge at some point, for redundancy. I'd like to see more redundancy across the board on saddles... As important as rope construction is the frequency of bridge replacement, and the security of the termination knot used.
 
colb said:
I'm also using platinum 10.5, which is standard issue on my onyx saddle. I like the interwoven core/sheath, in theory, but feel like I may also go to a doubled bridge at some point, for redundancy. I'd like to see more redundancy across the board on saddles... As important as rope construction is the frequency of bridge replacement, and the security of the termination knot used.
Click to expand...

When you say "doubled bridge" are you talking about climbing on both at the same time? I've seen dudes use two bridges but for multiple tie-ins.
 
I am talking about using two bridges for redundancy. If one fails the other remains. I'm not doing it yet. Will probably try it to see how it feels. I have bat rigging plates which have an extra attachment slot.
 
I roll an Onyx as well. I'd be interested to hear what you think if you do end up using that setup. I clip into the top holes of the plates sometimes with my lanyard but I could see using the bottom ones for another bridge.
 
I was burning through replacement bridges. One every 4 months it seemed. It looked like it was a small cut of lava rope. The one for the Sherrill's Edge harness. Then a friend suggested using a 13mm. So I took a small snip of an old climbing line, XTC spark, and boom. New bridge, no price and no delivery time. I have had it on currently for 2 months. Still looks good.
 
TimBr said:
@Alejandro Concolor; How did this end up working out for you? Do you still use it? Thanks.
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Worked great. But it should be noted, that of course, this mod doesn’t comply with manufacturer suggestions. Some would say it’s just their way to keep money coming their way, but if something tragic happened it would probably nullify any manufacturer responsibility.
The main thing to keep in mind would probably be bend radius. Increasing the diameter of the rope bridge will have fractional impact depending on what to have on the bridge. I have been using a ROOK, so the bend radius isn’t a huge concern due to the pulley D.
Even with a swivel it is probably not a huge risk because the bridge isn’t making a complete 180degrees bend around the object.
Just a few things to keep in mind.
But personally... the 1/2” and the ROOK has been a very good combo that I put 100% confidence in.
 
if you tie a stopper knot in the end of that first rope, the sheath would fail but the core fibres would still hold, the sheath would not pass the knot. However, that rope looks quite cut resistant, I wonder how it would stand up if the knife went across the grain? Hmmm? Still looks like good bridge material for sure!
 
The way a harness bridge loads is a sling configuration. (Straight with a floating center attachment.) The loading is very similar to vector loading when you think about it. The numbers for tensile strength, elongation and the like for climbing line are arrived at very differently. Be careful using them when juding materials for harness bridges.

The cycling (as in constant load/unload) is also very different. Micro cycles actually, but still subject to the idea of cycles to failure.

These are the reasons for manufacturer’s recommendations. Specific tests at specific loads, measured at specific points on the harness. The main concern is not the bridge failing, but your body and or the harness being subject to excessive load.

Use good judgement and don’t go all cowboy/ cowgirl just to save a few $$ or be different.

Tony
 
Tony said:
The way a harness bridge loads is a sling configuration. (Straight with a floating center attachment.) The loading is very similar to vector loading when you think about it. The numbers for tensile strength, elongation and the like for climbing line are arrived at very differently. Be careful using them when juding materials for harness bridges.

The cycling (as in constant load/unload) is also very different. Micro cycles actually, but still subject to the idea of cycles to failure.

These are the reasons for manufacturer’s recommendations. Specific tests at specific loads, measured at specific points on the harness. The main concern is not the bridge failing, but your body and or the harness being subject to excessive load.

Use good judgement and don’t go all cowboy/ cowgirl just to save a few $$ or be different.

Tony
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I see wear as the biggest factor, strength less so of an issue. Most rope or { cordage } rated for use in climbing is stronger than your body will ever withstand. Rope is more than capable of crushing your pelvis between D rings. However, as this video sorta explains some rope can show quite a bit of visual wear before critical failure happens- that's a great characteristic! I do think in a smallish way it can breed a false sense of security and some may think that if wear isn't obvious then why should I check?
I would still elect to use this product for it's apparent cut resistance alone! Although I'm not sure why I would have something sharp near my bridge?
 
Tony said:
The way a harness bridge loads is a sling configuration. (Straight with a floating center attachment.) The loading is very similar to vector loading when you think about it. The numbers for tensile strength, elongation and the like for climbing line are arrived at very differently. Be careful using them when juding materials for harness bridges.

The cycling (as in constant load/unload) is also very different. Micro cycles actually, but still subject to the idea of cycles to failure.

These are the reasons for manufacturer’s recommendations. Specific tests at specific loads, measured at specific points on the harness. The main concern is not the bridge failing, but your body and or the harness being subject to excessive load.

Use good judgement and don’t go all cowboy/ cowgirl just to save a few $$ or be different.

Tony
Click to expand...
super cool image you have there by the way! Poster material for sure!
 
Good conversation. These following remarks are not aimed at anyone in particular, just my observations.

Regardless of bridge material, length or whatnot. In my Professional judgement, if it is replaceable, then you should replace your bridge on a regular, set schedule.

You know, change the batteries in your smoke dectors, change your bridge kinda thing. The frequency will depend on your use, but I say no less than twice a year for a professional. Once. Ayear for all others. Why not? To expensive? Check your rates or revalue your life. To lazy? Find another career/ hobby.

Bridge failure due to material fatigue is stupid, becasue of the preventative nature. Don’t be stupid.

If you cut your bridge... well a whole ‘nother kind of stupid. I whole heartedly agree with DSMc. A longer bridge will increase the likelihood. There are better ways to shift the level of or distance to your friction management. Ways well worth employing due to the nature of our work.

Stephen, Thanks for the compliment on my avatar. I’ll let penny, my dog, know you complimented her.

Tony
 
Tony said:
Good conversation. These following remarks are not aimed at anyone in particular, just my observations.

Regardless of bridge material, length or whatnot. In my Professional judgement, if it is replaceable, then you should replace your bridge on a regular, set schedule.

You know, change the batteries in your smoke dectors, change your bridge kinda thing. The frequency will depend on your use, but I say no less than twice a year for a professional. Once. Ayear for all others. Why not? To expensive? Check your rates or revalue your life. To lazy? Find another career/ hobby.

Bridge failure due to material fatigue is stupid, becasue of the preventative nature. Don’t be stupid.

If you cut your bridge... well a whole ‘nother kind of stupid. I whole heartedly agree with DSMc. A longer bridge will increase the likelihood. There are better ways to shift the level of or distance to your friction management. Ways well worth employing due to the nature of our work.

Stephen, Thanks for the compliment on my avatar. I’ll let penny, my dog, know you complimented her.

Tony
Click to expand...
Your DOG took that! That dogs got chops dude!
 
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