Reduction Pruning Help

[guymayor]

Curious as to thoughts on this, especially on an immature tree taking one of the leaders would stop the included-bark acute angle and help mitigate future-failure, correct? Not making an argument for way up in the crown, more of the early on pruning.

This looks a ways up in the crown, on a semimature tree. Rot from excessively large cuts could be a bigger issue for structure than eliminating included bark and acute angles. These are so common on those maples, maybe eliminating them is not a realistic objective.

Based on those images, I would still recommend more reduction rather than removal cuts. Especially if the HOA has you back to reduce more later on, if that looks warranted. Which usually is not the case.

It's also good to keep in mind that codoms have no collars, so wound response is not so great.

 

[Alec]

In my experience Maples tend to be lousy compartmentalizers, especially absent a well-developed collar. Maybe I would do a 2-4" removal of a very subordinated lateral on a tree with high vigor. Generally, I try to keeps cuts on Maples, especially on Japanese Maples, to under 1".

The Fiskars Pruning Stik has totally transformed the way that I work trees; I now make dozens of cuts under 1". It's shocking how much reduction can be accomplished that way. I used to rarely use a pole pruning because the cuts are sh!te more often than not. The tilting head on this thing lets you get the right angle every time. It's feather light. I barely notice when it's on my harness. They are not designed for pro use, so be nice to it and buy them in pairs so you'll have one around with the first one breaks!

With Maples I generally tell clients "Pruning is wounding. Categorically. Small cuts are small wounds and big cuts are big wounds". After that they're usually ok with spending on fine pruning.

 

[JD3000]

In my experience Maples tend to be lousy compartmentalizers, especially absent a well-developed collar. Maybe I would do a 2-4" removal of a very subordinated lateral on a tree with high vigor. Generally, I try to keeps cuts on Maples, especially on Japanese Maples, to under 1".

The Fiskars Pruning Stik has totally transformed the way that I work trees; I now make dozens of cuts under 1". It's shocking how much reduction can be accomplished that way. I used to rarely use a pole pruning because the cuts are sh!te more often than not. The tilting head on this thing lets you get the right angle every time. It's feather light. I barely notice when it's on my harness. They are not designed for pro use, so be nice to it and buy them in pairs so you'll have one around with the first one breaks!
View attachment 74297
With Maples I generally tell clients "Pruning is wounding. Categorically. Small cuts are small wounds and big cuts are big wounds". After that they're usually ok with spending on fine pruning.

Yeah, these are nice when sharp and making small cuts but they do break easily

 

[guymayor]

Watch Dr. Ed Gilman's latest webinar on pruning. It's on urban forestry today if my link doesn't work. He basically wrote the new 2019 pruning BMP's

Where does he cover this particular issue? I don't remember that being covered.

 

[guymayor]

In my experience Maples tend to be lousy compartmentalizers, especially absent a well-developed collar. Maybe I would do a 2-4" removal of a very subordinated lateral on a tree with high vigor. Generally, I try to keeps cuts on Maples, especially on Japanese Maples, to under 1".

The Fiskars Pruning Stik has totally transformed the way that I work trees; I now make dozens of cuts under 1". It's shocking how much reduction can be accomplished that way. I used to rarely use a pole pruning because the cuts are sh!te more often than not. The tilting head on this thing lets you get the right angle every time. It's feather light. I barely notice when it's on my harness. They are not designed for pro use, so be nice to it and buy them in pairs so you'll have one around with the first one breaks!
View attachment 74297
With Maples I generally tell clients "Pruning is wounding. Categorically. Small cuts are small wounds and big cuts are big wounds". After that they're usually ok with spending on fine pruning.

Excellent advice; thank you. I got pist off at mine and chucked it in the corner. Second chances!