recommend a lightweight chainsaw

S

Starlet

Location
Newtown, CT
hi guys, i am looking to buy a lightweight chainsaw, i do not climb or take down huge trees, however i do prune some hefty looking trees, something light and easy to handle but durable would be nice. i know there are alot of them out there, but i am not sure on which one is the best, not the cheapest but the best one to buy. appreciate any input.
 
All ground work I'm guessing from all of your others posts. I would go for a MS 362 Stihl 20" bar or maybe a 346xp husky 20"bar.

Both are in the middle for chainsaws. A MS 200 could still be used but if its anything over 14-16" your going to wear it out pretty quick. They are small enough that are are not too heavy but got the power to cut up some decent wood if you need.

Really depends on what size bar and weight of the saw you want to deal with. Both of their website are really informative and could help you pick the right option for yourself.
 
the 362 and 246 are VASTLY different machines. If youre looking for a true apples to apples comparison, the Husky 346 lines up with the Stihl 260Pro. The Stihl 362, lines up with the Husky 357XP. In the smaller category I like the 346, the 362 walks all over the 357 in every aspect. Great saw!!! one of my favorites!
 
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hi guys, i am looking to buy a lightweight chainsaw, i do not climb or take down huge trees, however i do prune some hefty looking trees

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I am confused here...if you dont climb then how are you pruning a tree with a chainsaw?

but anyways my suggestions are ms200t from stihl...but that is a work horse...

ms192t is your cheaper alternative
 
there are trees that are not 50 feet in height, i am purchasing one of those telescopic ladders, but i do prune smaller trees and some of the branches are more tham i want to use my pruning saw on, and i will let you in on a secret, i am learning to climb, just not 90 footers!! so do not be confused any more casey. some of my clients have really nice specimans that really are not that big. thanks for the info. boston he was talking about a 346husky not a 246 or was that a typo? so you are saying the stihl362-- it is nice looking and not that much heavier, 2lbs i think if that.
 
Ladders and pruning are not a good combo. If on a ladder you need to be tied in at anything over 6' height. Ladders are made for flat surfaces like floors and walls, not rough ground and trees. And there is no difference between 50 and 90'. There is a height, I forget the exact number, it could be 40' where a person becomes afraid of heights. I worked with an excellent climber who suffered from this. He'd be doing great work then he'd make up some excuse and I'd have to finish the top. Do yourself a favor and hook up with some people in your area through treebuzz who are doing some rec climbing or take climbing training. It isn't just for Tarzan types you can do it, but it has to be done right. The better the skills the less strength required.
 
thanks boreality, that is what i am doing, meeting good guys on the buzz to learn from, you know good guys like yourself. however i did see on treebuzz the ladder i am talking about, sherrill carries it, i do some orchards and these trees are quite small well not real small but not huge. so i do appreciate what you are saying. and to be quite honest i do have a little fear of too high!! this ladder though looked pretty durable for what i do. i know there is a rec. climb coming up and one of the guys on here said he would be glad to show me the way to climb, which i think was super nice. i have met matt who is on tree buzz, so any big work of course i would recommend my fellow arborists on this site, because i think that is only fair.
 
There is also a height I love where the tree starts to move in the wind and you see over the top of the roofs and other trees. That's what it's all about.
 
We use those ladders to help shear tall Yews and prune small trees around campus. They are sturdy , but I warn you they are not to stable moving around on them. useing a chainsaw and ladders is a big safety whistle here on the buzz(not to do).Even when we are shearing and clipping at times we have someone hold the ladder just for the moving around and ladder woble. A question for you how big are these branches you are pruning out, I ask this because you being new to climbing if you are dealing with branches that have to be rigged up and out of the tree. Then you really need to becarefull.Put together ropes here and landyards there, and rigging ropes there, and chainsaw can be something to get used to along with haveing the right groundy, they can make or brake you day.
 
yes i agree with spotter which i always have, regardless limbs in diameter are probably 5-6 inches maybe, mainly chainsaw for limbs that fall on ground in a storm or once i am tied in in the tree if there is one that could be pruned faster with a small chainsaw, this is why i wanted small. but believe me i do not have a big ego or anything to prove so i appreciate all the caution and warning statements. again this is in the thinking stage. i always use a spotter when i am on the ladder even with my pruning saws. i have watched alot of videos on the buzz and they are no where near that big, that i see you guys rig, i respect the work you guys do believe me, the rigging is an art. thanks again
 
From the sounds of what you plan on doing a 192t would handle it all just fine. Not too expensive and is a pretty relialble little saw. Feel it is a great in tree starter and pruning saw.
 
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From the sounds of what you plan on doing a 192t would handle it all just fine. Not too expensive and is a pretty relialble little saw. Feel it is a great in tree starter and pruning saw.

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I've had success, and almost no problem using it as my main climbing saw for 3 years of removals and pruning. Great for pruning.

Another option is a super-aggressive handsaw, to mix with other handsaws, each suited to its own purpose.



A self-belay on a climbing system to climb the ladder can be great to enter into the tree to the point where you can go branch to branch with Alternating Lanyard Technique (or climbline and lanyard).

If you are speaking of the orchard ladder with the telescoping leg, orchard ladder are the Bomb. Very stable.
 
After reading and rereading this post I think you are looking into the top handle saws Husky 334xpt. Lightwieght costs less tha a Stihl(I like Stihl)and also wieghs less.You can also try Echo, Solo,Jonsorened,there are whole bunch out there to choose from.
 
I use the Husky 338xpt nice lightwieght, balanced, has the power,and good price. A good tip when buying a top handle saw the saw chain. I bought some 91 vxl chain a low profile chain than the safty chain you can feel and see the difference ( taking the safty chain off puts you into the kickback) or so they say either way you will notice the difference in handling.
 
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