Pole gaffs

I just bought a pair of Klein pole gaffs 1.5" #72. I installed one and tried it out in the yard (on a doomed tree). I don't like them, If anyone does I'd love to get something out of them. I paid $55 from sherrill and I've literally taken two practice steps on only one of them, so they are like new. /forum/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
I know a lot of climbers using pole gaffs. My T2's are. I don't notice any difference except that my foot is closer to the tree. I'm starting to think that they might be better. Besides, if you can sink a pole gaff all the way into a tree, you might not want to climb any higher! /forum/images/graemlins/eyeye.gif
 
I don't think they are too short. Been climbing on them for 9 years now.

I have tree gaffs too. rarely use, unless really thick bark tree or great for when trunk covered in english ivy. Tree gaffs hold your foot out way too far on the common tree in this area and put extra stress/pressure on your caff.

Pole gaffs are the best! (In my opinion.) And those "too short" kliens work well for me.
 
Just yesterday I TD a small pine wrapped in thick vines. My long gaffs drove home on almost every step.
 
Ivy vines (often poison but that's another topic) can be tricky sometimes. Once a tree becomes just a structure for the climbing plants, many of the older dead vine columns are detached but when getting to the top is the objective we don't notice which ones are stable and connected and which ones are "loose". Have had lot's of surprizes while ascending.

Also have come across a few trees that were long rotted and gone, leaving only a braidwork of 60' of woody vine tubes. Those are cool, especially if you have a camera. One time had the chipper backed-up to the base of a straight water oak and cut a girdle, pulling a feed into the chute....it took the entire vine off the tree but damn if there was no one around to see it happen. Two days after most girdle cuts - if it's not raining - it's easy to pull the climbers off, at least as far as the canopy, then it's gloves and anti-itch cream that night.

Also use the pole gaffs, no more pines here in the Hill country. Density of dead live oaks mandate the short ones if I need them, but keep them sharp as often as I rat-tail file my 020's. It's also nice to be able to walk from truck to tree to tree without tip-toe 'ing because of long gaffs.

Heck, better quit stalling and get to work.
 
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It's also nice to be able to walk from truck to tree to tree without tip-toe 'ing because of long gaffs.



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Reminds me of when I had to buy a little old lady a new garden hose. Courtesy of buckingham permenant 3 1/2" and my own clumsiness. /forum/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
Well if you think of it in terms of were yo stand on gaffs the point is still the same. the arch of your foot weather in close of 1" or out by 2' we still stand on our arches.
That brings it down to if they are set up as the sharpness and degree of angle they are coming to a point. As poles have no bark to go through and trees do. The design of gaffs are to the work they are doing. So you can use poles for trees but you have to change the points.
And vice!
So you don't have to use gaffs like a stamper for landscaping but use them as an easy step up.
I have seen people on the way up (try to take the tree down with a step) Crank in so hard they are only good for 2-3 climbs.
Kristian does say "smooth is fast" so the less you have to make effort to advance the better you are.
Check and keep you gaffs safe at all times. $5.00 it coast for a guide tool.
 
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Gottcha. All I know is that I don't gaff out too much with the T2's or Geckos.

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hey mark do you have pole gaffs on your geckos as well? what type of pad do you use for the T2's?

I would like to try the super wrap pads by buckingham...anyone know the difference or have a preference to a steel or no steel insert? Does the steel insert give more support?
 

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