Pine TD

[ QUOTE ]
Thats fine, brother. To each their own. Its not something I made up, and I think a few here might recognize that the term 'sawing lean' into a tree comes from much more experienced and reputable sawyers with more years felling under they're belt than I've had turns around the sun. But hey, what do I know?

Norm, that sight is great, you might wanna patent it! I meant no offense, but the depth was intentional, and I feel there are plenty of reasons to step outside the 1/3 rule when tipping sections of wood. Why don't you try it out next time you have the chance? If you have a pull line and some wedges in the back for insurance, what's to lose?

I think you'll find that in most cases, a deep undercut on plumb sections yields a pretty labour free trip. I've gone so far as 2/3's on some heavy spars and required neither pull line nor wedge to tip them (though the wedges were set in case!)

Paul, I do live in a beautiful place, the Okanagan is the Napa Valley of Canada. And being from Calgary, the first winter here felt like a vacation in the Caribbean by comparison!

We need to see more pics of that island tree life you got going on there!

[/ QUOTE ]
Will get some on here tomorrow just finishing up a four day job ( with 3 man crew sans chipper ), no big deal but nice location in the ritzy area great views. Will post this afternoon hopefully. Take it easy Dylan, love that Okanagan. Paul.
 
No offense taken brother.
I always say "Do what works for you". I can see how cutting a deeper notch will allow fo easier tipping. 80% has worked flawlessly for me. We have three 24-30" removals coming up where we can drop 50' spars. I'll give the deeper notch a try.
Again great job.
 
The reason for the 80% rule is to have the strongest hinge. The heartwood becomes brittle or a cavity and at 80% the curve of the circle includes as much sapwood as possible. That spar felling is fine and dandy but when it goes wrong....you know. I wouldn't put too much faith in any old logger advice, they don't do percision felling like we do percision felling, like between expensive buildings. Just stick with the pull rope to overcome lean.
 
With a crane, sure. Getting a crane back there would have been tricky, but not impossible. There is only so much $$ on a job, though. Or do you mean by felling the top into the same spot I dropped the spar?

The attached piece was still solid. If the inspection at the tearout had not been to my liking I would have had to consider alternatives. But there was a good amount of sound wood, and the attachment appeared sound, no cracks extended below the inclusion. I was climbing on a 12x12 beam, which had lost its neighbour. Given an understanding of the compressive strength of the wood I was dealing with, and the way in which codominant tops are 'put together,' I felt comfortable climbing above the tearout. I left a lot of lower limbs to dampen the dynamic forces when rigging. Nothin to it but to do it.

Felling that top, either into the yard towards the house, or in the same spot as the spar would have meant damaging landscape, fence, shed, or house. Unacceptable risk to property there. Not to mention it was almost completely weighted towards the house, so a significant pull and some wedges would have been required to tip it.

I wracked my brain puzzle solving for a couple days beforehand. This was my best shot...other than a crane.
 
[ QUOTE ]


The attached piece was still solid. If the inspection at the tearout had not been to my liking I would have had to consider alternatives. But there was a good amount of sound wood, and the attachment appeared sound, no cracks extended below the inclusion. I was climbing on a 12x12 beam, which had lost its neighbour. Given an understanding of the compressive strength of the wood I was dealing with, and the way in which codominant tops are 'put together,' I felt comfortable climbing above the tearout. I left a lot of lower limbs to dampen the dynamic forces when rigging. Nothin to it but to do it.



[/ QUOTE ]

Good inspection and plan. I wondered if climbing above a fresh torn-out co-dominant top would have any effect on the remaining lead. I would have maybe shaved the bark off the inclusion to check for a crack extending downward, and possibly ratchet strapped below the tearout. In any case, one for a calm wind day.
 
Damn skippy!

I was about to ratchet that top together, but decided agin it when I inspected the tearout. The bark shaving was unnecessary due to the exposed wood from the tearout.

Sometimes a guy climbs a tree and its clockwork, sometimes some serious breathing exercise is involved...haha!

Thanks for the concern, guys. I am by no means a cowboy or a lunatic, I've got two little boys to come home to. In as much as I am capable or aware, I don't take stupid risks.

I reread a preface from an AN mag regarding attitudes towards safety within the industry. That you all ask those question tells me we have a good culture of safety in the biz (for the most part).
 
I know what it's like climbing above tearouts like that on Pondy's. Lotsa times I think it feels more dangerous than it is. That's ok, it'll keep you on your toes.

[ QUOTE ]
I wouldn't put too much faith in any old logger advice

[/ QUOTE ]

There are lots of loggers for which this holds true. However, there are many other loggers/fellers who are absolute experts at what they do. Much can and should be learned from them. Especially the old-timers who had to make do with very little equipment. Some of what they have to teach is in danger of being altogether lost.
 
Yeah...that statement rubbed me the wrong way too. I didn't want to go there for fear I'd say something I'd regret. One of the ol' loggers to which he refers happens to have written a few books and put out a few DVD series.

It was solid, tree wise. Just a gut check is all.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Excellent drop.
Perfect hinge. Nice and strate.
Clever technique for 'gunning'.
Notch is too deep for my liking. 80% for me.
Did you favor the right side (looking from the image) of the fence for a reason? (bend in spar, lean)

I made a felling site out of 1/2" OSB and treated it so it wouldn't absorb water. 26" long with silica sand blended in with the shellac on the bottom to help prevent slipping. Small enough so it stores easily. (pic attached)

[/ QUOTE ]

Norm, nice work on the felling site. Good job Dylan, got it down safe and no one got hurt.
 

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom