Phytotoxicity

ChampionTree

ChampionTree

I am brand new to the chemical world and have a question. I am starting small and spraying pine trees in my area for diplodia and zimmerman. I am doing a series of 3 sprays (2 in April 1 in August) in which the first spray will be a mix of bifenthrin for my pesticide and the label Junction for my fungicide. Junction is a copper hydroxide and mancozeb wettable powder. The label on the fungicide gives warnings against phytotoxicity. I was just wondering if my fungicide/pesticide mix will have a high risk of phytotoxicity. I have attached the link to the Junction label on treestuff for reference. Any help would be appreciated.
https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=80&item=1579
 
Phytotixiciy also can be a problem when using hort oil as a surfactant. Make sure you use a non ionic. Junction is a mix of copper and mancozeb. It's supposed to be less phytotoxic than docket (chlorothalinil). I'll be using junction for my rhizosphera needle cast treatments this year as blue spruce has gone off label for docket because of phyto issues.
 
I'm actually spraying for needle cast also. It's comforting knowing that others are using the same product. Since I'm new, I'm just hesitant and want to make sure I do things as correct as possible. I like that Junction has such a broad treatment spectrum.
 
I've had a few issues with Mancozeb, worst was peeling paint off a newly (within a month) painted deck rail. It was the brand name Fore. I switched over to Eagle and haven't had any other issues. Niether have copper in them to my knowledge.
Due to the climate here I don't see many fungi related issues. I have had success using Bayleton: http://50.19.88.206/system/product/product_label_pdf/8/Bayleton-50-4x5.5oz-1.pdf
Not sure if it's labeled for your disease.

ChampionTree said:
How common is it or how likely is it that my pesticide will alter the ph of the fungicide?
Click to expand...

Not very likely. I'd check your carrier water for ph. Around here it's very basic.

I've been using (trial no charge) fungal antagonist bacteria as an organic solution: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3749424/. Worked very well last season on powder mildews. Copper solutions are usually quite reliable for me too.
 
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