Passing rope joint through block

[Brocky]

This is 1/4”, with a Diamond knot, smaller but weaker than a Button knot.
SK99 dyneema is stronger than the 78, one way to go smaller.

 

[SeanRuel]

How bout just girth hitching the lines together? Put a small bolt btw the lines to keep from seizing like a toggle

 

[*useless info*]

eye2eye girthed to me is not all at once as good as might sound.
>>especially if in Thief not Square matings
>>Watching the solid leg vs the spliced at the joint
Perhaps, 1 eyeSplice made, and other reeved thru before making?
>>Balanced more slip than Girth that could imbalance to more load to splice leg
>>if lined up against solid leg on other rope?
.
i'd think that'd be a Brocky splicing question!

 

[Brocky]

Not sure if two girth hitched lines would self equalize when loaded, or be weakened, I don’t think the buried tail could be pulled out due to the limited travel of the loops.
Maybe splice a bolt, for a toggle on one end of the section of rope and a small loop for the bolt to fit through on the other end, a quick way to connect together.

 

[theatertech87]

Why not an end to end splice? Also those pulley Rico shared are used by Lineman all the time for pulling in New cable... All sorts of sizes and options and strengths that can get downright obseen

 

[flushcut]

Why not an end to end splice?

See post #14.

 

[Tree Access]

Soft shackle would be my solution #1, two spliced eyes girth hitched #2

 

[Brocky]

Girth hitching would require passing the whole length through the eye, that would be farther down on my preferences! Another option is an eye on one end and take the other end and tie to the next eye with a sheet bend, double sheet bend type hitch.

 

[*useless info*]

In high loading, usually find 1 single peak solution, and all else lesser..
.
Self Equalizing Slip of Eye vs. Possible Grips/imbalanes to both halves of eye as pulls
IF going with Girth please see theory of force flow:
>>would favor setting solid/native leg/side of eye against solid/native leg/side of eye of other side
>>and then the less firm side(if any) of the slip/splice are lined up against each other too
>>like a Square Knot, primary to primary
Would dis-favor playing into any POSSIBLE mechanic of making more of a Thief connection
>>of firmer/primary/native side of eye on 1 side pulling against the slip/splice side of other eye.
Always and all ways command with greater on lesser or at least matching
>>never throw into maze of multipliers trusting favorable outcome or even same drawing to maybe side of lesser commanding greater if at all possible.
In computer terms asking for BSoD, not solidly lined up with commands tot target and spurious fails.
.
Self balancing eye2ye doesn't have the fault.
But i think needs to arc flexible connection, and be able to use the connection too in real time
>>not just as extension full time

 

[chris_girard]

That is what I’m thinking. We used some ole Garlats (spelling?). Big enough to pass a sheetbend in 9/16.. just hoping for a middle ground

That block is designed for wire rope, not synthetic, arborist, rigging lines. Not saying that it won't work, just that your rope may flatten out and get pinched more than it would with a proper sized block for your application.

 

[Brocky]

Actually, that flattening is better for dyneema than the usual half circle shape for other ropes.

 

[chris_girard]

You're absolutely right Brocky.

 

[SeanRuel]

If you put a large eye splice you can just shove the whole coil/ pile of rope through in one go.

 

[bonner1040]

The girth hitch is the way to go for sure.

 

[SomethingWitty]

Girth hitching would require passing the whole length through the eye, that would be farther down on my preferences! Another option is an eye on one end and take the other end and tie to the next eye with a sheet bend, double sheet bend type hitch.

Splice the girth in. With a wire fid it could reliably take one minute.

 

[*useless info*]

This is very interesting:
ezelius.eu/knopar/reevers/

Still would give stiffer 'nodule' area, and width, but nice flow.

 

[rico]

Or we could just use a block which is purpose built to allow splices and knots to easily pass through it?

 

[flushcut]

True, but at $1000.00 bucks a block might be cost prohibitive. Right tool for the job? Absolutely.

 

[SomethingWitty]

True, but at $1000.00 bucks a block might be cost prohibitive. Right tool for the job? Absolutely.

That doesn't seem prohibitive if it will be used for this job occasionally for many years. Write in half of the cost to the bid.

 

[flushcut]

That may be true but are you the one selling the job with 1300.00 blocks (ok $1275.00 blocks) and have only needed said blocks this one time so far in your working history? Many uses, great, but this seems like a one off.