One and only rigging rope

Tom Dunlap

Tom Dunlap

Here from the beginning
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Retired in Minneapolis
For a basic rigging kit what rope would you use?

What parameters do you use to determine the rope size?

There won't be any natural crotch rigging.

There is unlikely to be any really large chunks coming out either.
 
1/2" (10400 lbs)to 9/16" (13330 lbs) stablebraid. Its stronger than the next closest 1/2" line which would be arbormaster at 8100 lbs.

I'm not a huge fan of fat ropes so those two keep the weight down but give you lots of strength compared to the next strongest 1/2" line. They also allow you to rig out some large branches and not worry too much.

The 1/2" and 9/16" will fit though a small port-a-wrap and a small block if overall cost if a concern.
 
First, let me be very clear, I don't have an oz of experience compared to you guys, so keep that in mind.

Tom,
Since you aren't gonna be seeing "...really large chunks..." then myself, I'd try to make things easy on me. I.e. I'd get a supple but light (light in weight) rope. Velocity comes to mind, 6000 lbs MBS, about 5.6 lbs/100 feet, packs tight, has just about the right amount of stretch for helping with shock loads, and it can be spliced. I realize some don't like Velocity because of its waxy nature, but that's not an issue for rigging and in fact may be helpful on a Porta Wrap.
 
I like Samson True Blue (1/2") for its pliability and texture. If I was stuck with one rigging line, that would be it.

I am currently using NE rigging line (1/2") and I am frustrated with the hockles so far, but its relatively new. We shall see.

-Tom
 
1/2" Stable braid for running through blocks.

true blue for natural crotch rigging.

Those are my choices for the workhorse ropes. I used to have a 3/4" DB that never left the truck.
 
For the record, I'm considering adding a thin, light rope, maybe 10mm for those pieces that are just heavier than I can manage- but can't be let to just fall.

I think even yalex would work fine for this. Fine enough!

Though a beeline rigging line would be sweet...

love
nick
 
1/2" and 5/8" Stable braid. All I use.


Couple things I noticed about New England's rigging lines, is the hockles, and the low melt point when letting pieces run. This is compared to SB.
 
I use 5/8" stable braid to deal with the issue of cycles to failure. The stronger the rope, the more use i get out of it. I've also used New England's similar product , but, like everyone else, found it hockled way too much... what a pain!
 
I use a 1/2" Safety Blue 3 strand for lite rigging 98% of the time with a CMI RP130 (5/8" arborist block). I like the durability and ease of splicing. Rarely use it for catching wood, just for overhead rigging. If I am going to catch wood or take heavier loads, a 9/16's DB is the choice. For lifting with the GRCS, I have a 9/16's" Dyneema core, polyester cover DB. 18,500 lbs. ABS. Always use an arborist block with it. We used the 9/16's Dyneema/polyester DB to lift what we calculated to be a 3,600 lb. oak limb that split off and landed on the clients home. Brushed it out 1st until it was just beyond the edge of the roof. Two (2) parted the line from the anchor to the lifting point, to create a 2 to 1 MA, and down to the GRCS. The 9/16's barely stretched before hoisting it off the roof. What a sweet rope.
 
5/8" Stable Braid, but I've got some Double Esterlon ordered. Figured I'd give it a try.

Norm, what lowering device do you use with the 3-strand? Seems a port-a-wrap might lead to some severe hockling if the rope were fed through the wrong way.

Also, what brand Dyneema are you referring to and where do you purchase it? Is it as durable as Stable Braid or Double Esterlon? And is this your go-to rope for the really big stuff or do you use larger at times?
 
[ QUOTE ]

1. Norm, what lowering device do you use with the 3-strand? Seems a port-a-wrap might lead to some severe hockling if the rope were fed through the wrong way.

2. Also, what brand Dyneema are you referring to and where do you purchase it? Is it as durable as Stable Braid or Double Esterlon? And is this your go-to rope for the really big stuff or do you use larger at times?

[/ QUOTE ]

1. We use a large Porty. Continually reversing the rope turns reduces the hockling. I personally have been using 1/2" 3 strand for many years for lite rigging. I'm a big fan.

2. I personally own a 1/2" X 200' Samson Amsteel II (15,500 tensile) and a 9/16's" X 150' Atlantic Braids "Proforce" (18,500 tensile). The Amsteel II is uncoated and the Proforce is coated a neon green. All Gear Inc. sells the Proforce. allgearinc.com
 
[ QUOTE ]
1/2" and 5/8" Stable braid. All I use.

[/ QUOTE ]

Typically that's what I also use for most false crotch rigging.

I just ordered a new 9/16" DS Composite jacketed spectra line, rated at 19,000 lb tensile from Puget Sound Ropes for lifting and lowering large pieces with the GRCS.

For natural crotch rigging, I will commonly use a retired 1/2" 16 strand Samson ArborMaster climbing line that still has plenty of life left in it for use as a light duty rigging line.
 
I'm running half inch superbraid. Good for pullys and naturel crotch. For small stuff i'll use old climbing lines.
 
For me its a preference thing...guy left company...i like tachyon...his old velocity at my disposal for what ever I wish...its a great rope and i needed some rigging lines...velocity works best for most of my light to medium situations. I agree. if a rope needs to be retired, then put 'er to bed...with a scissors. The guys out there rigging with old climb lines that haves nicks to the core are playing with fire. Bottom line, we're professionals and we need to use our judgment as to whether a line is fit for its intended use or not. The people who work around us and the customers property beneath us deserve our safe use of tools, bottom line. Boston...have you ever used an old climb line to rig with...just curious, no ball busting. If so, where do you draw the line...with the old lines???
 
I have used a current climb line to rig with, yes. Then retired it to a pull line. It was an emergency in middle of night, and had my gearbag in truck. Quicker to climb it and quick rig than drive 20 minutes to get a truck, and 20 minutes back, blah blah blah. I really frown upon the practice of retiring a climbing line from life support, but then rigging with it.

We have a company policy that all retired climb lines are only to be used for tie downs, tag lines, and pull lines in non hazard applications. Luckily the company I work for has an awesome Safety and training program, and we keep fresh gear on the trucks. All of our guys are top notch in that regard as well. we supply them with the proper tools to do the job.
 
That's awesome! Really. It's refreshing to hear of a company that cares enough for the people they employ to provide excellent tools to work with...and employees in leadership that look out for everyone around them instead of just rolling the dice.

Question. why would you retire that line that you mentioned...I'm guessing that you didn't want it to be confused as a life line, because it was loaded heavily...but if not, why not keep it on as a light rig line?
 
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