Notch Radius Ring

The size of both the Cali and the Hydra/Rook absolutely blow my mind.

To point...is anyone actually using all THREE of the Hydra's attachment points? I could see two ends of a DdRT setup, or an SRT connection and maybe a lanyard on occasion...but that still sounds like just using two holes.

To wit, I'd like to insert a classic into the discussion...

swivel-s.jpg


Why is this not a part of the discussion? You can easily fit a bridge and a carabiner in one side, and two carabiners in the other side...
I also recall somebody on here contacted DMM and asked about using the swivel in this configuration and they gave us the green light...
 
I've been running a cali for at least 6 months. I never notice the weight, it never smashes my junk, and has not caused excesive bridge wear. I might have used all 3 holes at the same time once or twice for an srt line in the middle and a lanyard going to each side, but that is rare. I use the center hole for srt and the side holes for ddrt, on the rare occation I ddrt. I could really do it all without the 3 hole swivel, but I like it. I also have a second bridge with a ring. Totally unnessasary, but its nice when I use the captain hook to have it on the second bridge. None of it ever gets in my way, so I can't justify taking it off. Options are nice. Sure its not for everyone, but some people will love it.

I, too, have a second bridge that is almost exclusively for my Captain Hook. I DO use it for positioning on occasion, because I prefer that layer of separation over having everything ultimately connected to a single bridge. I subscribe to the concept that a"two diverse connections when cutting" shouldn't all rely on a single bridge.

Glad the California doesn't smash your junk.
 
I also recall somebody on here contacted DMM and asked about using the swivel in this configuration and they gave us the green light...
What is that? Connecting to both bottom & top with biners at the same time? I always assumed it was a gray area as it can cause loading off sideways to it's rotating axis... but that's somewhat comforting to hear it's a green light. I wonder if the same applies to RE's.

I, too, have a second bridge that is almost exclusively for my Captain Hook. I DO use it for positioning on occasion, because I prefer that layer of separation over having everything ultimately connected to a single bridge. I subscribe to the concept that a"two diverse connections when cutting" shouldn't all rely on a single bridge.

Glad the California doesn't smash your junk.

I perfer a second for all the reasons suggested, but mostly because it's a great way to "lock" myself into a position when i need leverage or stability.
 
If you keep adding stuff to protect your gear, it will not wear do quickly, because you will become too encumbered to climb.


Once, when I was a new trad rock climber, I had everything I could possibly need for gear choices, not knowing what I'd need. A guy told me if I didn't have so much stuff on my harness, the climb would be way easier.



Tied rope-bridges are cheap, unless the manufacturer can make more money by offering products. My MCRS bridge is a piece of rope, but they have stiffened the ends as an anti-roll out thingy for the anchor hitches.

Sherrill is charging 20-30 bucks for rope bridges with hardened ends. Treestuff's website seems to be down, or at least for me, ATM. IDK about the MRCS bridge cost.
As a trad climber myself, I’ve learned to take only the protection I need based on the type of rock and the area at which I’m climbing. Turns out a fist in a crack is the same size as a #4 Cam, or a #2 cam pending which way you insert your fist; once the mental aspect of being confident in your climbing ability is there, the physical aspect will be that much easier
Point being, you can lose a lot of weight in the tree if you assess what you need prior to going up; if you need your short lanyard only, then just take
that.
If you may be doing some longer limb walks, maybe use a Longer lanyard that you can use as a ddrt line as well, a little extra weight but it will help much more with physical depletion during a climb.
If you’re doing only two inch cuts on a linden why bother with a chainsaw? That’s 6 lbs (or whatever) extra weight of bulkiness you’ll be dragging through tight crotches.
 
What is that? Connecting to both bottom & top with biners at the same time? I always assumed it was a gray area as it can cause loading off sideways to it's rotating axis... but that's somewhat comforting to hear it's a green light. I wonder if the same applies to RE's.



I perfer a second for all the reasons suggested, but mostly because it's a great way to "lock" myself into a position when i need leverage or stability.
Yes they said you can put it rope bridge and biner on one and and lanyard on the other hole of the swivel. I've not heard of any other manufacturer condoning this and I haven't owned any of DMM swivels yet but they look stronger and most people feel they are built better than other swivels out there
 
Yes they said you can put it rope bridge and biner on one and and lanyard on the other hole of the swivel. I've not heard of any other manufacturer condoning this and I haven't owned any of DMM swivels yet but they look stronger and most people feel they are built better than other swivels out there
As far as things being better built, I got a few RE swivels & there's a little bit of slop in there.. but compared to the single Petzl swivel i have, I'd consider it non existent. I barley have any use on it & it's slop central.. All sorts of off axis flex.

As far as DMM, i haven't been able to swallow the cost on their any of their swivel's yet... but considering the MAP they mandate here in the US, those things better be freaking perfect.
 
As far as things being better built, I got a few RE swivels & there's a little bit of slop in there.. but compared to the single Petzl swivel i have, I'd consider it non existent. I barley have any use on it & it's slop central.. All sorts of off axis flex.

As far as DMM, i haven't been able to swallow the cost on their any of their swivel's yet... but considering the MAP they mandate here in the US, those things better be freaking perfect.
Yea I believe DMM says anymore than 1mm of play on their swivels is cause to retire. But I haven't heard anybody complain about any DMM swivels. Only bad thing I hear is when someone buys the large axxis and finds its too big and that they never fill the holes with 3 connections. But I believe the small axxis can fit at least 2 on each side comfortably. But I hear you on the price man...the small axxis cost about as much as a rook.
I use the black diamond (50$i think) rotor on my bridge now and then and it really hasn't developed much play like my rook has. But I also don't find the need to load it up with 2 connections on both sides when I'm working. Sure sometimes when rec climbing I'll deploy a bunch of gear and use it up.
 
Yea I believe DMM says anymore than 1mm of play on their swivels is cause to retire. But I haven't heard anybody complain about any DMM swivels. Only bad thing I hear is when someone buys the large axxis and finds its too big and that they never fill the holes with 3 connections. But I believe the small axxis can fit at least 2 on each side comfortably. But I hear you on the price man...the small axxis cost about as much as a rook.
I use the black diamond (50$i think) rotor on my bridge now and then and it really hasn't developed much play like my rook has. But I also don't find the need to load it up with 2 connections on both sides when I'm working. Sure sometimes when rec climbing I'll deploy a bunch of gear and use it up.

I wonder where that millimeter baseline is supposed to be measured at? I would assume the joint itself. If it was elsewhere, it may read much more than it actually is. (Like play in ball joints, small amount at joint can cause a ton of movment at top of tire)

Yeah, the Petzl micro & the Rook are the worst offender though, on the Rook i swear it's just a hex head bolt threaded into the 3 hole plate & pinned in place. It's got side to side movement as well as off axis movement.. & the Petzl, im suprised i haven't heard other's say anything, it's literally like a "hotdog down a hallway" analogy.. I could care less if they are loosey goosey or tighter than a bulls ass... I just want to know if its accepted by the manufacturer's standard.
 
I wonder where that millimeter baseline is supposed to be measured at? I would assume the joint itself. If it was elsewhere, it may read much more than it actually is. (Like play in ball joints, small amount at joint can cause a ton of movment at top of tire)

Yeah, the Petzl micro & the Rook are the worst offender though, on the Rook i swear it's just a hex head bolt threaded into the 3 hole plate & pinned in place. It's got side to side movement as well as off axis movement.. & the Petzl, im suprised i haven't heard other's say anything, it's literally like a "hotdog down a hallway" analogy.. I could care less if they are loosey goosey or tighter than a bulls ass... I just want to know if its accepted by the manufacturer's standard.
Well I tried to trace where that bolts manufacturer is and check it but couldn't find any info so I trust rock Exotica ...but if you compare that bolt to the bolts that CMI uses on all their micro pulleys they look exactly the same size and I know a swivel loads the bolt differently than a pulley but their pulleys rate higher than the rook but pretty close.
I think your always gonna deal with play in swivels and your never gonna be able to inspect them completely so if you want a swivel I would cough up some DMM money, cause that's what I'm gonna do. Sherrill has the small axxis on sale right now toooooooo.
 
The swivel that bothers me the most is the aluminium one on the earlier ZigZags. The eye is one piece with a narrow aluminium neck. I know they are rated, etc. BUT. . .

I have two of them and I just don't use the swivels. I use biners thru the hole in the main housing. Just can't bring myself to hang my life on that 1/4 inch aluminium neck.
 
Well I tried to trace where that bolts manufacturer is and check it but couldn't find any info so I trust rock Exotica ...but if you compare that bolt to the bolts that CMI uses on all their micro pulleys they look exactly the same size and I know a swivel loads the bolt differently than a pulley but their pulleys rate higher than the rook but pretty close.
I think your always gonna deal with play in swivels and your never gonna be able to inspect them completely so if you want a swivel I would cough up some DMM money, cause that's what I'm gonna do. Sherrill has the small axxis on sale right now toooooooo.

I'll eventually get a DMM swivel for something, I'm sure of it. Really interested in that new Director Swivel biner...
What's with the sale? Do they end up cheaper than buying from UK? I think there like 50-60 Also, just a heads up, apparently there's a recall on the Nexus lineup.

The swivel that bothers me the most is the aluminium one on the earlier ZigZags. The eye is one piece with a narrow aluminium neck. I know they are rated, etc. BUT. . .

I have two of them and I just don't use the swivels. I use biners thru the hole in the main housing. Just can't bring myself to hang my life on that 1/4 inch aluminium neck.

You use the main housing hole for your point of attatchment??? That must force the links all the way to the end of their rotational allowance.. & then some.. if the links rotational allowance was just allowed to continue on & didn't stop where it's designed to stop, they would want to be directly above the housing hole when loaded.. you gotta be putting some serious force against those links using it this way... no?
Especially if operating in a manner that requires more rotation.. there's side to side rotation for a reason on this device, hence the reason they design the link stack to be centered when properly connected allowing for unobstructed side to side motion when needed. If those links are bottomed out against their stop right from the get go, i can't imagine the force on the link stack connection being any different that bending the links sideways over an edge/limb/etc & breaking at lower loads, like the manual presents that data on. Yeah the stack will flex, but the connection is bottomed out & being leveraged against the housing.

Idk my friend, i hope I'm wrong on that for your sake & would encourage someone to explain otherwise... not argue, just explain.. This isn't the same as the whole Zigzag SRT discussion where the swivel can bottom out or cause excessive wear, were talking about the links being leveraged if I'm following his post correctly.
 
Also, just a heads up, apparently there's a recall on the Nexus lineup.
I never heard of the Nexus recall!? Please post a link up or even make a thread if there hasn't been one made yet because many guys on here use them and we gotta look out for each as much as possible by sharing that info...that's one of the biggest reasons I use this site so much because we always post recalls and failures....
 
I never heard of the Nexus recall!? Please post a link up or even make a thread if there hasn't been one made yet because many guys on here use them and we gotta look out for each as much as possible by sharing that info...that's one of the biggest reasons I use this site so much because we always post recalls and failures....
My bad I just seen the thread
 
Joey, I use my ZigZags SRT with rope wrenches, with the RW tethers to the same holes as the biner, so that the alignment when hanging on it is still roughly the same as it using it as intended DdRT. Got lots of hours on them now with no issues.
 
Joey, I use my ZigZags SRT with rope wrenches, with the RW tethers to the same holes as the biner, so that the alignment when hanging on it is still roughly the same as it using it as intended DdRT. Got lots of hours on them now with no issues.

So i just gave what your doing a try & the link stack is definitely cranked all the way over against the stops being leveraged. The concern i expressed in my last post is definitely there, even more so with SRT.. The question id be asking myself is, what's stronger, the swivel that was designed as the main connection OR the single riveted link designed for friction that's repeatedly getting leveraged like a pry bar against the stop (These links were reported to crack "at one point" too & that was under normal use circumstances).

Just out of curiosity, where have u see this implemented before? Is it some method of use i just haven't seen yet or is this soley just you?
 

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