Negative rigging with clevis

[john.massing]

I bought a clearance rigging rope with a spliced eye. Is there any reason not to use a clevis with threaded pin on the spliced eye to attach the rigging line to a piece of wood in a negative rigging scenario?

 

[RyanCafferky]

Seems fine to me.

Some folks use these. Way harder to drop the pin than with a normal shackle. And can’t come unscrewed
https://cmigearusa.com/products/arborist-shackle

 

[Shadowscape]

Seems fine with me as well.

 

[flushcut]

I use one on my 5/8". Nice shiny stainless deal, just keep the pin in the splice and not the running part. (I know just saying)

 

[27RMT0N]

Seems fine to me.

Some folks use these. Way harder to drop the pin than with a normal shackle. And can’t come unscrewed
https://cmigearusa.com/products/arborist-shackle

I was going to suggest the same thing. Never used one, but sure seems like a useful device/feature.

 

[john.massing]

Seems fine to me.

Some folks use these. Way harder to drop the pin than with a normal shackle. And can’t come unscrewed
https://cmigearusa.com/products/arborist-shackle

Thanks for the suggestion. I looked at that but am hesitant because of the 1 spring tab and everything staying intact with a violent slam into the trunk. That is why I am looking into the threaded pin.

 

[Matias]

I have an ISC Wizard with the rated gate that I use on the spliced eye of my rigging line, and not only does it make work a lot easier, the gate still works smoothly. Its a 70kn biner, and I haven’t put more than 500-600 lbs on it, so.....

 

[john.massing]

I use one on my 5/8". Nice shiny stainless deal, just keep the pin in the splice and not the running part. (I know just saying)

I was looking at the stainless versions. Works well for you?

 

[Shadowscape]

I mainly use a steel rope snap girth hitched on 9/16th rigging line. Have never had a problem with it to date. Changed it out a few times over the years, but not because it failed in any way. On really big stuff I revert to just a timber hitch on a 5/8th line however. Although I have 3/4 lines and blocks, I can't recall the last time I used that stuff. Overkill for any wood I have around here.

 

[Shadowscape]

You can find stainless shackles here:

5/16" Stainless Shackle

Heavy-duty steel shackles for tree work. Find inexpensive galvanized steel shackles, stainless shackles, and robust Crosby shackles for working with crane slings.

www.wesspur.com

Pay no attention to the SOFT SHACKLE heading. They have 1/2, 5/8, & 3/4 stainless.

 

[chiselbit]

Seems fine to me.

Some folks use these. Way harder to drop the pin than with a normal shackle. And can’t come unscrewed
https://cmigearusa.com/products/arborist-shackle

We use these, they work great for awhile then get tweaked a little and don’t close or open properly and I’ll buy a new one. I feel like I get my moneys worth out of them

 

[Chris Schultz]

I think a downside for me would be the weight of it, the weight would get old on the haulbacks, unless you’re doing some really heavy duty rigging, which the round trips are probably shorter at that stage. Also much less forgiving if it kissed a window or some stucco(on haul back)…..

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Used a number of times, even away from trees. Cranes, towing etc. industrial grade link fer sure.
Clevis is real 2 leg support to me, carabineer is more single leg like well 'moused' hook ( tinyurl.com/army-rig page.86 pic:3-4) fortifying solid leg ; but only 1 solid leg.

Note tight bands in both, then bound across tight in 2nd, like as sweating/swigging/Samson/perpendicular angle to make even tighter binding force for fortification of hook against bend open or load shift out; just as carabiner gate.
.
So carabineer or hook need to be usually heavier /larger stock to equal clevis. Carabineer gate side weakest link that defines strength is baby axle not pulled lengthwise down major axis of strength even but across minimal axis across length as weakest axle point receives 'real force'*.
.
We always prefer pin, especially on any spin potential, but would screw shut clevis by hand and back off 1/8 turn as anti-jam after stress for lowering and short pulls, wrench shut for extended or other complication, but receiver needs wrench to/or pass w/load. Want narrow clevis for strength.
.
Have used oversize with rating wet sanded off smooth as like over head Porty friction around bell of clevis , 1 leg out to sde redirect.

*
Perpendicular pulls/pushes are of 'real force', where the full cosine of 1 is expressed fully and across the cosine of 0 axis of the other, thus the real force.

 

[flushcut]

I was looking at the stainless versions. Works well for you?

Yeah, it works well. Beefy, good weight for throwing around the trunk, and handles abuse well. Rarely has the pin locked up on me.