needing some advice on eye-eye combo and swivel.

So my employer supplies us with one type of climbing line and 2 types of eye and eye's for free and I really like them but im looking to try new combinations as i feel they bind up pretty good on me. ( I use a distel knot, but want to try VT)

I use a 1/2" samson Blue streak spliced eye

http://www.sherrilltree.com/Professional-Gear/Other-Climbing-Lines/Blue-Streak-Climbing-Rope

My work supplies us with HRC and Bee-Line eye-eye...im hoping someone has used other with my rope and knows a better one as i cant seem to find anything that doesnt bind up!

also I have a bridge with a green DMM ring on it and a hitch climber system already. I am wondering if anyone finds that incorporating a swivel into the mix is worth it? i feel like the extra metal in there might seem like just too much. but maybe it really does help keeping ropes oriented correctly when double tie in is neccesary? what do you guys think?

thanks!
 
I climb on Blue Streak with a 8mm HRC VT. Very happy with it. I use 4 wraps and two braids with a CMI micro pulley (Hitch climber was too bulky for me). Beeline is good stuff too.

Can't help you with the swivel, though. I like to keep it as simple; and swivels always spooked me a little, just another link to wear or break.
 
i hear ya banjo just looking for a starting point and peoples opinions to get me started. dont wanna waste money on anything lol.

thanks thrash maybe ill try VT but i think my current length is too short. how long do you think i should try for a VT on hitch climber setup with the HRC eye/eye?
 
I have climbed with your rig before. I found that the michoacan and vt work best. The distel would bind for me as well. I personally preferred to use a 30" 10mm beeline with grizzly splices. I would take 5 wraps up and 1 under. It was touch to tie as it uses all of the prussik cord but it had only 1-2 inches of sitback when climbing. The vt worked well also but had much more setback. The only negative with the michoacan is it burns the lower cord where it tucks under the bottom wrap so check it regularly for wear. I prefer a swivel below the hitch climber pully. It makes it much better to keep your rig in allignment and a simple flip over the shoulder when your lifeline gets twisted. If blue streak and bee line are free from your employer then may want to try this before befor you buy your own rope and cord. I found that it worked quite well.
 
Unless you know the reason you need a swivel, meaning you have the experience to have done the work without one, and have a specific idea in how the swivel will benifit you... you probabaly do not need one.
Like you said more metal in the system that is not needed. There are instances where a swivel will help certain climbers in certain situations, but they are few and far between I would hazard.
Mine sits in the gear bag, I found it just made me play with the ropes more ?
PS: knots binding can often be solved by tying a better knot, another wrap on top generally keeps my distel slippery, I am running oceans on various, but use BLine lots as well.
PSS: have fun learning, take your time and enjoy the journey, n stay safe.
 
The dmm swivel is pretty slick....

jp
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I have a dmm axis on my bridge. I run it 90% of the time as you would a ring, with the bridge and biner in the same eye.

It's a swivel when you want it and a ring when you don't. I don't believe you can run any of the other swivels in that configuration.
 
I've been skeptical of the swivel on the bridge but I do see it in the virtue of isolating myself from the twisting of multiple tie in's. I bought this one to play around with on my bridge. It's a local company, it's light, it's small, the action is the smoothest I've ever felt and the edges are smooth for running like a conventional ring on one end. It's also very inexpensive (notice I didn't say cheap
wink.gif
) Grand Wall Equipment
 
I love how a swivel can allow a slack-tending pulley to align in any direction of rope pull from the tail of the climb line, whether it be during a descent below a branch which your tail is still redirected over, or when managing slack on a limb walk return, etc...

Any swivel that allows for 2 'biners in the eye is a winner in my book (unless it's a HUGE swivel
smile.gif
).
 
Treeajnin,
Many of different configurations out there and you will get many different opinions. We all have our comfort level and that goes with equipment we climb with and such. For me, I am set up with a blue streak, eye splice and I use a older conventional mix with newer equipment kind of. I dont like grabbing above my knot and having to take slack out while holding yourself up. So I use an eye and eye tenex that is like 52"long and I have them splice it all the way back through so it is a more true 1/2 inch prusik, I use the Schwabish and I can assend up as long as my arm reaches so I am not fatigued so quick. I know this is long for many. my arms are long and I dont want to short myself from an ascend ever. Now I have played with the hitch climber pulley and can see some benefit only when Im working the tree, not ascending, so I have configured a short extension to take care of that, I just keep it cliped on and un clip to extend and clip back to shorten, another thing I do is on my regular long prusik with my schwabish , just under it I use a small eye n eye prusik 3 wraps and when Im working I lower it and clip that to my caribener, now Im working with my knot right there in my reach, at anytime If you want to ascend again, simply undo your short prusik and now your long again with your regular long eye and eye! I saw a neat trick also with your hitch climber set up is you can instead of attaching your eye splice end to the pulley, continue it first around and back up your bridge or main attachment back up to the pulley, then to hold it in that exact place is use a small prusik on the eye splice side up before it comes down to your saddle attachment, this will keep that in any length place you might like and easy to adjust. It's all about playing around and finding what you might like most.! but at the end of the day you still have to get that tree down, or prune those dead branches. Do it right and do it safe!
 

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