My first crane ride

V

viewscaping

Location
ontario
Had my first crane job on the weekend. A crane virgin no more!
It was awesome but I do have a question. On many of the posts here it appears most make a bypass cut or make two cuts to meet. My crane operator wanted me to put a notch each time - a couple of times the saw got stuck. Whats the recommended method of cut?
 
I rarely use a notch, your operator is overreacting. A good back (kerf) cut and then come around on the shackle side and just cut the sucker.

<font color="green">The TreeHouse</font>

Every click a different pic!
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different cuts for different circumstances no one cut is superior for all situations. What kind of crane was it? and how familiar was the crane operator with doing tree work? I hardly ever notch my cuts when doing crane work but I have a system that works for me and a operator that works in conjunction to my preference not the other way around. Don't get me wrong there should be a balance so you are bolth comfortable but if your operator is not an experienced (TREE)- crane operator be very carfull when taking the crane operators advice on how you make your cut.
The only other problem is you will never wan't to do another technical take down with out one.
 
Have to agree with the blaster. Just cut the thing. Of course you use descretion as with every thing that is done in tree work but the notch is just an over reaction to you being green. Just my opinion, which is worth really whatever.
As long as everything went well keep up the good work. Cranes are fun.
 
Hmmmm, I notch crane picks on a regular basis. When that horizontal limb needs to be stood-up, a straight under-cut(back-cut) tends to barber's chair and pinch the saw; and generally become unpredictable. However, most of the cuts I make are snap-cut or straight-through.
 
TL, do you prefer to notch the horizontal limbs VS. using a balancer? By the way, I have no crane experience but curious for other rigging.
 
For me, anything that needs to be stood up gets a notch, if not, then cut it right through. Take the last third of the cut slowly and watch what the pick is doing as you cut it=not pinching the saw. If you have the boom tip centered properly you usually don't need any kerrf or back cuts. TL, why the snap cuts?
 
I have used a crane many times and all manor of cuts. Your saw can get pinched no matter what kind of cut you make . It all depends on how you rig the pick like how and where you set the choker,lean,tension from the crane,etc.
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I tend not to notch and "stand up" cuts b/c of the unpredictibility that i feel comes w/that. i would prefer to balance those cuts which i feel safer with.
 
Jason... it depends. If we don't have the reach and need to swing or stand horizontals toward the boom, I'll use a notch. This generally keeps the piece from twisting and I can setup the hinge depth while the crane holds the weight, then I move to safety and the crane can close the face and break the hinge.

Seamus... I use snap cuts alot. Setup the cut and then move out of the way... less exposure. I also find that bypass cuts are less likely to pinch the saw.
 
where in relationt ot he cut would you set your choker? I mean say you haev two sides a and b. YOu set the choker on a side. THen cut straight through on b side or what&gt;? Snap cut from side a towards b, then finish with b to a? I have no diagramming skills, so if anyone has them feel free to post.
 
We have started using double chokers for better balance. On straight wood picks we have found that if you are looking at the wood from the top as a clock and the boom is at 6 o'clock we get the best pick out of the chokers set at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and the cut coming from 90 degrees to the chokers. Usually the cut starts on one side part way through and then gets worked around coming from the opposite side. As far as types of cuts it varies on the pick i.e. brush,lean etc. Sometimes it's a straight through cut, sometimes a notch and sometimes a small bybass cut. Trial and error with different species of wood will get you started in the right direction.
 
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Right, it won't break on a straight-up pull, no way. But if the crane can close the face, and continue the pull, the hinge will break... usually!
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I agree.

There is nothing better than making a shallow notch on the top side, making a back cut, turn off the saw, get back a little, and watch the crane take the pick smoothly.
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