Mods to treemotion saddle

islandarb

De' Island Buzzer
Location
Barbados
Here is what I did to my new treemotion saddle tell me what ya all think simple stuff. But to suit my needs. After I had climbed in it and dialed it in. Tell me what you think. The warranty is void. But I don't care.
1. First I cut the excess webbing off the waist and leg straps and restiched a loop so they wouldn't creep through the buckle .
2 Changed out the bungee and replaced it with stonger accessory cord.
3 Moved the red gear and chainsaw loops to the right where I carry my stuff ( slings etc dont carry too much I can always call down for what I need ). Picked it out and then stitched it in place using the Z pattern and triple stitched.
4. Put in small caritools which will hook in my saw when moving around, then stiched them ( all stitching has been done with a sailmaker's industrial machine using thread for making racing sails ) in place using webbing. Those boys ain't going nowhere. Banjo said they are strong but if they break I will pick the stitching and replace.
5.Zubat quick release is sewn in place but I am moving it to the left as it is a tight squeeze. The sequoia had a better setup that suited me. So I have tried to make this similar.

None of my mods has in anywhere compromised the load bearing characteristics of the saddle.
What do you all think I am prepared to get peppered. smile:
 

Attachments

  • 306572-IMG01461-20120107-1818.webp
    306572-IMG01461-20120107-1818.webp
    265.3 KB · Views: 374
[ QUOTE ]

3 Moved the red gear and chainsaw loops to the right. Picked it out and then stitched it in place using the Z pattern and triple stitched.


[/ QUOTE ]

Paul,

gonna be truthful here....for me this does not sound like a good idea. You may have severely compromised the breaking strength of the tool loops. Worse case scenario -imagine if by modifying those loops your chainsaw broke free and killed someone. It'd be hellish for you.

I understand where your coming from with trying to make the harness work for you as I've modified certain things on harnesses before as most climbers will have done at some point in the past.

I'd find a way to sort this issue out, maybe speak to one of the treemagineer folk? they login here from time to time.

There could be a suitable fix? not sure.


.
 
Grover they aren't much different than when they were in their original place they had them stitched in a square pattern though they folded them under two slots in the back pad but i am using sail makers thread you imagine how much more pressure sails under full power take. They only used i stitch and I have triple stitched them this ain't going nowhere. I have used it already and it has not budged, I know after a while it might show signs ( doubt it very much ). Will check this out though.
 
It seems like you favor the right side of the saddle...is there something large or bulky that you keep on the left (chain saw, 5 gallons of water, 700' long lanyard for climbing that bonsai)?
cool.gif


Just wondering...
 
I can suggest the larger caritools, as I think they are more rugged, and can fit a bit more...are you finding the lower D's useful?

Looks like you've got plenty of room for a blood stopper kit back there, and I do not joke when I say that. I carry one near the lumbar position on mine.
 
I am sitting here picking out the stitching holding the caritools in place as I was just thinking to change them to biners like i used on the sequoia so when not in use they lay flat. Call me crazy but I like stuff neat on my saddle just like when I spearfished for a living ( mostly scuba at the end of that career frowned upon by guys who do it for sport but it compares to spike pruning I guess ). I am always playing around with my harness except load bearing stuff PPE. That stuff is harder to unpick than the original the cordage is so much stronger.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I am having a hard time comparing scuba/snorkel spearfishing to spike/spurless tree work. Just my mind working here. Carry on.

[/ QUOTE ]

Things need to be neat as far as sharp objects and spear line when you're 60' below waiting for the perfect shot. Get that spearline around your leg and pull the trigger...no good. I guess climbing saddle and associated tools can be similar. Also, sport fisherman tend to be the bane of commercial fisherman's existence. Much like someone who would wear spurs for a pruning job is frowned upon by a professional arborist, which I think Swing was saying.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I am having a hard time comparing scuba/snorkel spearfishing to spike/spurless tree work. Just my mind working here. Carry on.

[/ QUOTE ]
Ok Tom again just a little humor. On our island I grew up freediving when the reefs were plentiful near shore. However due to pollution and fish post nets etc, the fish population was depleted near shore so when I was shooting later on for a living it was scuba only because we needed to go to greater depths to get the right size fish. With scuba you can shoot way more fish with experience, it's kinda like shooting fish in a barrel,in other words it was not helpful to the fish population so it's like me when I started climbing and pruning trees, not good for the tree. Making sense? Here is me and a grouper I shot with my buddy who is holding a snapper, again did not take photo's often but someone gave this to me years ago.
 

Attachments

  • 306606-paul.webp
    306606-paul.webp
    46.8 KB · Views: 140
Tom you see what I mean cultural differences somewhat cause meanings to be lost, if I were explaining this to one of my buds it might have been easier. Eric I also used to shoot freespear meaning cordless for quicker reload and stringing the fish. Hope this clarifies why I like streamlining and bare essentials I hate stuff pulling on branches I like a basic bare bones saddle. Kinda missing my buck sliding D that was starting to wear in when I gave it away. That is now destroyed after a climber of 15years cut his lanyard cleaning a coconut tree. Told me today the cut him out the damn leg strap because he had a badly broken femur and they did not want to unbuckle it.
 
You'll most likely not be happy with accessory cord in place of the shock cord. The shock cord allows the leg loops to move with you as pick your legs up, or stretch them out, etc. To get full range of motion with the accessory cord, it must be lengthened to maximum; and when max is no longer needed, the cord can't retract and will just hang out in a loop catching on everything. Also won't do anything to keep the leg loops in position on your thigh.

I did the same thing about 6 years ago on my Butterfly II. Quickly realized that it was not the right thing to do.
 
[ QUOTE ]
You'll most likely not be happy with accessory cord in place of the shock cord. The shock cord allows the leg loops to move with you as pick your legs up, or stretch them out, etc. To get full range of motion with the accessory cord, it must be lengthened to maximum; and when max is no longer needed, the cord can't retract and will just hang out in a loop catching on everything. Also won't do anything to keep the leg loops in position on your thigh.

I did the same thing about 6 years ago on my Butterfly II. Quickly realized that it was not the right thing to do.

[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks TL I changed the stretchy fabric on both my sequoias, to webbing and you are right they are mostly out by the end of the climb. I hate to say this but you are right at least the change back will be easy this toss. Thanks.
 
I prefer to keep the center red ring in the center and use a large caritool on each side.Just is nice to be able to keep it attach(break away saw lanyard) to the red ring and hang it on the side thats convient to my position.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I prefer to keep the center red ring in the center and use a large caritool on each side.Just is nice to be able to keep it attach(break away saw lanyard) to the red ring and hang it on the side thats convient to my position.

[/ QUOTE ]
How did you get used to the saw being in the center? Crazy. I am just going by how I have had the saw in my 4 years of climbing. I like it this way. I am real crazy huh?
 
Make or purchase that chest harness and hang the saw from the center of your back. It will free up your saddle a bunch more. I like to have a pair of small caritools on the side and a pair of large caritools on the back. Currently have a non locking biner on the left side, but still the same effect.
 
Nah I use to always put it on one side back in the day,but i think it made my hip hurt over time.I dont hang it in the center,its just the saw lanyard is attached there(the red ring) and the saw hangs on which ever side is easiest.
 

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom