I made an adjuster for my non wire core lanyard with an extra eye & eye prusik. I used a prusik hitch on the lanyard, to carabiner, then to my saddle. While trying it out today, it was a real pain to pull slack out when I needed to tighten it up. I'm trying to figure out the best way to use a micro pulley with it. Should I just get a small swivel snap snapped to the pulley and then just clip that to the carabiner? Anyone have a picture of a better set up?
Micro pulley for lanyard adjuster.
- Thread starter 02SVT
- Start date
- Location
- rhode island
It'll be fine, I'd put the pulley on the biner between the hitch chord terminations.
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
I'd give the Vt lanyard a shot. I don't see much of a point to using a prussic hitch, they tend to bind and can be a pain in the... The advantage of a prussic would be that it's bi-directional so unless you are using a double ended flip line there are much better hitches to use. I've used a VT without a minding pulley and it works reasonably well. Also on a lanyard VT's seem to be less sensitive.
- Location
- Charlotte, NC.
If that doesn't tend the way you want try different hitches. I climb on a vt, but I use a short e2e with a xt for my lanyard.
BeesandTrees
New member
- Location
- Longmont, CO
I just switched back to michoacan on my lanyard with pinto and prefer it over the vt...still easy to work but don't have to worry about sensitivity/setting of vt. Using 8mm OP on 10mm beeline.
Richard Mumford-yoyoman
Been here a while
- Location
- Atlanta GA
[ QUOTE ]
...I don't see much of a point to using a prussic hitch, they tend to bind and can be a pain in the.......
[/ QUOTE ]
I hope swingdude did not mind me using his photo but I put the VT side by side to the prusik. I do see one advantage to the prusik in that the amount of slack that needs to be tended and then reset each time it is used. The closer the pulley is set to the fiction may be more efficient.
Does this sound right?
One more comment/question and this seems counter intuitive to me but a 3 over 3 under prusik binds less than a 2x2, right? The intuitive thought is that "less" hitch would be less friction/bind.
...I don't see much of a point to using a prussic hitch, they tend to bind and can be a pain in the.......
[/ QUOTE ]
I hope swingdude did not mind me using his photo but I put the VT side by side to the prusik. I do see one advantage to the prusik in that the amount of slack that needs to be tended and then reset each time it is used. The closer the pulley is set to the fiction may be more efficient.
Does this sound right?
One more comment/question and this seems counter intuitive to me but a 3 over 3 under prusik binds less than a 2x2, right? The intuitive thought is that "less" hitch would be less friction/bind.
Attachments
Yoyo, I find that the less wraps and braids, the more friction gets focused into those said wraps and braids.
The best combination for any individual we be unique to that individual.
I find that the more I can spread out the friction, the smoother the response, and the less the tendancy to bind.
I would just suggest to use a Pinto pulley, or a Hitch Climber pulley since they can both be set up in a clean and concise DdRT system when the situation calls for that flexibility from your lanyard.
The best combination for any individual we be unique to that individual.
I find that the more I can spread out the friction, the smoother the response, and the less the tendancy to bind.
I would just suggest to use a Pinto pulley, or a Hitch Climber pulley since they can both be set up in a clean and concise DdRT system when the situation calls for that flexibility from your lanyard.
moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
I rejected the prusik hitch as a lanyard adjuster a good while back when I was trying to release the heavily-loaded hitch one-handed to return from a sort of precarious pruning limbwalk. I really needed a hand free to keep my position on the limb. When you really load up that hitch it binds hard. With two hands available, no problem. With only one hand to work the hitch, a problem.
You can make a very short hitch setup with a Distel for example if you tie or splice your own eyes. A few other hitches can be set up with a short cord length as well, Knut, Michoacan (as Swingdude mentioned) etc.
-AJ
You can make a very short hitch setup with a Distel for example if you tie or splice your own eyes. A few other hitches can be set up with a short cord length as well, Knut, Michoacan (as Swingdude mentioned) etc.
-AJ
oldfart
Participating member
- Location
- Asheville, NC
AJ,
I had just the same experience as you. I had been trying a bunch of different combinations for an Arbormaster DEDA lanyard. When I got something that was perfectly quick and reliable as a lanyard, it could lock up like you said.
My answer is “fat and soft” not “thin and hard”.
Tried several cords like 8mm UltraTech. Sewn and spliced. NG.
Then I went with plain old 3/8” tenex-tec, hand spliced, 27” i2i. The stuffed diameter is FAT as the Arbormaster and it’s very soft. The 27” length forces a really tight 4/1 Distle. It’s tough to wrap it and stuff it into the Pinto. But once tied, it is completely reliable as a lanyard, grabs instantly with no payout at all. But it’s so soft, it releases very nicely and reliably. There’s still friction as you take in lanyard slack. It’s as adjusting hitch, not a climbing hitch. But it’s an easy, smooth, reliable release.
Of cource, tenex has no heat rating but doesn’t matter for a lanyard.
OF
I had just the same experience as you. I had been trying a bunch of different combinations for an Arbormaster DEDA lanyard. When I got something that was perfectly quick and reliable as a lanyard, it could lock up like you said.
My answer is “fat and soft” not “thin and hard”.
Tried several cords like 8mm UltraTech. Sewn and spliced. NG.
Then I went with plain old 3/8” tenex-tec, hand spliced, 27” i2i. The stuffed diameter is FAT as the Arbormaster and it’s very soft. The 27” length forces a really tight 4/1 Distle. It’s tough to wrap it and stuff it into the Pinto. But once tied, it is completely reliable as a lanyard, grabs instantly with no payout at all. But it’s so soft, it releases very nicely and reliably. There’s still friction as you take in lanyard slack. It’s as adjusting hitch, not a climbing hitch. But it’s an easy, smooth, reliable release.
Of cource, tenex has no heat rating but doesn’t matter for a lanyard.
OF
Richard Mumford-yoyoman
Been here a while
- Location
- Atlanta GA
[ QUOTE ]
...
I find that the more I can spread out the friction, the smoother the response, and the less the tendancy to bind.
I would just suggest to use a Pinto pulley, or a Hitch Climber pulley..........
[/ QUOTE ]
Great stuff, I have lots of new things to try, good point about the pulleys. I do like the Distel and will see if that gives me the smoothness, good release and compactness near the pulley.
THANKS
...
I find that the more I can spread out the friction, the smoother the response, and the less the tendancy to bind.
I would just suggest to use a Pinto pulley, or a Hitch Climber pulley..........
[/ QUOTE ]
Great stuff, I have lots of new things to try, good point about the pulleys. I do like the Distel and will see if that gives me the smoothness, good release and compactness near the pulley.
THANKS
YoYo, I am glad you are using my pics to figure something out. That's why I post them, for someone to point something out or maybe someone likes the setup. Either way someone benefits. I came here to learn and grow. I have by leaps and bounds. Met some really nice dudes/gals too. Alls good.
Treespotter
New member
- Location
- Houten, The Netherlands
Check out the Rope Slider. It's on my lanyard since two years and love it.
No bulky
heavy
micro pulleys for me.
No bulky
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