Fairfield
Participating member
- Location
- Bucks County pa USA
Something that is not always needed, but when it is, it's great to know how to do. Was looking to see how you all like to go about doing the deed of load sharing anchors?
Load sharing anchors
- Thread starter Fairfield
- Start date
chris_girard
Branched out member
- Location
- Gilmanton, N.H.
I've taken some examples from rock climbing and started to incorporate multiple cordelettes into an equal load sharing anchor point on which to climb off of.
Best daisy chain that I've found to make a cordelette is Metolius Ultimate Daisy Chain.
Unlike other daisy chains, each loop is rated to 22 kN (4950 lbf), eliminating the pocket failure problem of traditional daisies.
The only daisy to pass the CE/UIAA Standards.
Sling Standard.11 mm (0.43"). Dyneema Monster Sling webbing is more versatile - can be used for equalizing
anchors, etc.
Best daisy chain that I've found to make a cordelette is Metolius Ultimate Daisy Chain.
Unlike other daisy chains, each loop is rated to 22 kN (4950 lbf), eliminating the pocket failure problem of traditional daisies.
The only daisy to pass the CE/UIAA Standards.
Sling Standard.11 mm (0.43"). Dyneema Monster Sling webbing is more versatile - can be used for equalizing
anchors, etc.
- Location
- Retired in Minneapolis
I set one up to take down a wide spindly boxelder. In order to get a high pull point for the rope I set up a three point self equalizing anchor. I used half inch rope and steel biners. It worked great
- Location
- Victoria, BC, CAD
I've had a few scenarios come up in trees or setting up hauling on the ground. Y hangs are a great one both for load sharing, redundancy and floating your load angle within a limited angle. You might need to get pretty creative for setting them up to be retrievable.
Bunny ears and Big F-ing knot are a couple other useful knots for load sharing.
Bunny ears and Big F-ing knot are a couple other useful knots for load sharing.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
Not the best link, but sufficient...Avoid the American Triangle...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=881925
You can magnify loads under some circumstances.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=881925
You can magnify loads under some circumstances.
Fairfield
Participating member
- Location
- Bucks County pa USA
under ALL circumstances, it is the rule of triangle and physics. Its all about resultant forces with rigging.
- Location
- Long Island, New York
This is standard Operating Procedure for Rock-Climbing. One of the most popular forms of Rock-Climbing is top-roping. This is where there is an easy way to get to the top of a route, a rope anchor is set, and you can then climb safely with a belayer at the bottom of the climb.
Your TIP is therefore set at the top, much like having a RR Friction Saver. The difference, is the anchor point uses the available fixed objects at the top of the route - ie. large nearby tree trunks, boulders, a ring bolted to rock, etc.
It is customary to tie into more than one point in order to:
1 - Have redundancy
2 - Share to load across more than a single point
3 - set your tie-in such that there is "No extension" should one anchor point fail, and therefore reduce/eliminate shock-loading from a fall
There are some excellent books written on this. One of my favorite books is "Rock Climbing Anchors - A comprehensive Guide", written by Craig Luebben. Many of these concepts transcend to all forms of rope climbing. There is a wealth of information here that anyone tying in would benefit from reading.
Your TIP is therefore set at the top, much like having a RR Friction Saver. The difference, is the anchor point uses the available fixed objects at the top of the route - ie. large nearby tree trunks, boulders, a ring bolted to rock, etc.
It is customary to tie into more than one point in order to:
1 - Have redundancy
2 - Share to load across more than a single point
3 - set your tie-in such that there is "No extension" should one anchor point fail, and therefore reduce/eliminate shock-loading from a fall
There are some excellent books written on this. One of my favorite books is "Rock Climbing Anchors - A comprehensive Guide", written by Craig Luebben. Many of these concepts transcend to all forms of rope climbing. There is a wealth of information here that anyone tying in would benefit from reading.
chris_girard
Branched out member
- Location
- Gilmanton, N.H.
[/ QUOTE ]There are some excellent books written on this. One of my favorite books is "Rock Climbing Anchors - A comprehensive Guide", written by Craig Luebben. Many of these concepts transcend to all forms of rope climbing. There is a wealth of information here that anyone tying in would benefit from reading.
[/ QUOTE ]
Excellent point. The late Craig Luebben wrote some fantastic material and I was saddened to hear when he died from a freak climbing accident, when an immense slab of ice broke away from the glacier that he was climbing on back in '09.
[/ QUOTE ]
Excellent point. The late Craig Luebben wrote some fantastic material and I was saddened to hear when he died from a freak climbing accident, when an immense slab of ice broke away from the glacier that he was climbing on back in '09.
