Iron Chlorosis

[rfwoodvt]

Hey All,

Have a Quercus palustrus 19" dbh otherwise healthy with classic interveinal chlorosis. The tree is growing on shallow soil over a dominant dolomite ledge.

Haven't done pH tests yet but I'm about 95% of the cuff sure of the diagnosis.

Due to the dolomite adjusting pH is going to be futile at best and require so much sulfur I don't think it is worth doing. (dolomite is a relative of limestone)

This is a nice tree that truly sets the mood for the landscape. The chlorosis is getting worse each year and presently the tree looks less green and more yellow.

I've thought about soil buffering as well as soil injected iron but with the lime nature of the soil I think bio-availability of anything injected into the soil will be minimal.

couple of questions:

<ul type="square">[*]Aside from pH what other tests would you suggest as definitive
[*] what are your thoughts on ferrous sulfide injections
[*] in the case of injectables, which brand is the best bang for the buck
[/list]

 

[Knowledgequest]

Rick,
You missed a great session with entomologist Joe Boggs as guest speaker yesterday.

You do not mention how large this tree is but foliar applications of iron chelate can help diagnose. Spray some on the foliage of an isolated branch and observe if any changes occur.

Go ahead and get that soil tested.

Hope you feel better.
ed

 

[TreeJunkie]

Our results with chelated iron sprays have been very poor. Difficult to get enough nutrient into the system to correct serious chlorosis.

Get the soil test for ph and available macros and micros - possibly do a prescrip fert based on your findings. Inject with verdur this fall at full strength and be prepared to see results...
We deal with these issues on a regular basis here in kc where we have tons of limestone and chlorotic pin oaks. The results we've been getting are spectaular.

 

[Sylvia]

Brandon, are you injecting the Ver Dur into the root flare on a three year cycle? Have the trees been sustaining the improvement for that period of time? How long have you been using the product?

I have no experience with the product, so am curious. If so, this would definitely sound like the "lesser of evils" as they say, when you are looking at a tree where you simply cannot alter the pH and you know that demise is likely if nothing is done.

Rick, by all means get the soil test...although I agree, I don't think you will be surprised. But it also may help with any other questions that might arise.

Sylvia

 

[rfwoodvt]

He Brandon,

Thanks for the input.

I'm really hesitating on trying to add acid to the soil because of the remaining landscape plants...all neutral or slightly base loving stuff.

If anything, I'm now leaning towards at least moving the soil to neutral then supplementing directly through trunk inject.

the tree is about 19" dbh and 40 feet high. so foliar is probably out of the question especially with drift and drip.

Still wondering about a field pH meter though very few suggestions or options apparently out there.

 

[Chum]

ferrous sulFATE ("dirty iron") has trace Zinc, copper, molybdenum, nickle and acidified by sulfurous componants. While not readily soluable, over time it delivers a maintainable high dose of Fe to correct deficiencies by both allowing the element presented and making it available by acidifying the soil chemistry. It works wonders in correcting chlorosis, albeit over a time span and is so cheap and easy to use, injectables or chelated compounds become expensive marketing schemes

COPPEROUS is a product designation not to be confused with copper sulfate - toxic potential unless tergeted to precise fungal disease diagnosis. 50 lb bags for under $20, ten to twenty lbs per dripline each tree. 2x per season.

 

[gourd]

Hello folks, this is my first post. I've had good results with medi-ject, with ferrous sulfate injections to the root flare area. Only modest results with direct-inject with their iron nutribooster (only on smaller trees &lt;6" DBH).
Anybody familiar with Dr Carl Whitcomb's chlorosis treatment? can post a link tomorrow from my office computer, or you can google it up yourselves. Dr. Whitcomb developed a recipe using sulfur, timed release fertilizer and micro nutrients buried in the soil around the trees. I have seen good but slow results from this. Lasts for a few years. I manage landscapes for a university in a chlorosis prone area, and have the luxury of a long term relationship (25+ years)with my trees.