In the market for a good all arounder tag line

trenchfoot

trenchfoot

Location
Western ma
So it’s finally time to buy a 200’ rigging line that’s a step above a 1/2” 16 strand and a step below a bull rope.

I tend to use my tag lines kind of…. Liberally I guess is the word; sometimes running kernmantle through natural crotches which I guess is not ideal, using retired climbing lines for light rigging etc.

What is everyone’s favorite medium duty rigging line? Good for natural crotch as well as hardware. Something that can handle dainty, clearance conscious tippy swings as well as hard shock negative rigging.

Thanks
 
No idea, it’s sort of plastic three strand, similar to the blue stuff you get in hardware stores, a widow gave me access to her late husband‘s workshop that they wanted to clear and there was loads of this stuff. So I snaffled it.
Certainly seems strong enough, if it gets serious I break out the proper stuff.
 
Last edited:
RyanCafferky said:
1/2” Stablebraid is decent and my regular workhorse for a lightweight thrasher rope. 1/2” Sirius is my favorite for light weight stuff. 9/16” Atlas is my go to all around rope that is still light enough to not feel like a boat anchor.
Click to expand...
So I've used sirius and atlas. Do you have any issues with hockling as they work with the portawrap?
 
Wrap braided ropes around the POW in alternating directions if hockling.

Twisted ropes have a preferred direction. Idk if it's clockwise or counter- clockwise.


Lowering off both ends means the rope coming off the ground, allowing the rope to untwist.
 
I beat the snot out of Treemaster, compatible with a Maasdam rope puller and natural crotching. True Blue works for natural crotching, as well. Both stretch, absorbing shock.

1/2" Stable braid is stronger and lower stretch. Better for speedlining. Use hardware.

3 ropes for 2-3 different jobs (natural crotching, Maasdam-ing, low-stretch and higher strength.

Double-whip Tackle double the capacity of the rope. Match slings appropriately so that the rope remains the weakest link. Consider how much rope is in the system.
DWT needs twice as much rope to run in order to fall clear of the cutter, and half the friction.
 
Most of the stuff we do is really tight clearance so I’m wary of too much elongation. A lot of the leaders or chunks rigged need to clear a roof or another specimen tree . Usually means i’m cutting pretty conservatively.

I haven’t thought about DWT in ages, thanks for bringing it up! It actually might have saved my ass yesterday. That kind of set up will absorb more shock that would otherwise be sitting In your rigging anchor points right? Awesome advice, thank you
 
Just buy 1/2" stablebraid or 1/2" double esterlon and be done. It will handle a shitload of operations. As for hockling, that will happen with all new rope coming off the reel. Once you use it from both ends and cover matches core it will eventually stop. Milking solves it for climblines mostly. One should have a variety of rigging line to handle most scenarios using a variety of rigging methods. For big removals I am known to bring 4 ropes on the job along with many blocks and rigging rings.
 
Ill echo Muggs. The rope that we use most all around is Yale XTC 12. Its white with a yellow tracer. We primarily always run it through a pulley or block but I frequently flip it around crotches as well for redirects. Stays pliable, ties well. I have had a little bit of hockling but we just switch ends when it starts to happen. This is our do all majority of the time. We will pull out stable braid in 1/2' or 5/8" if stretch is a potential issue.
 
southsoundtree said:
I beat the snot out of Treemaster
Click to expand...
So the last time I ordered Samson 3 strand, I neglected to pay attention to the "soft lay" vs "hard lay" difference. I was looking to replace some promaster 1/2" soft lay but ordered the tree master 1/2" hard lay. Holy shit that stuff is stiff. Its like lasso rope. I had a hard time flaking it into the rope bag and I don't like how it knots. Very difficult to get it to dress and set because of its stiffness. I have really put the screws to the promaster I originally had and it was starting to slip in the masdam. Figured it was time to retire it from that application. I have yet to use the tree master in the masdam but I can't see really using it for traditional rigging because of how stiff it is. I was wondering how many people really use the hard lay tree master option.
 
1/2” superbraid, a Sherrill exclusive made by teufelberger, is a serious contender. Super tight jacket, surprisingly low elongation for a rigging line, and good tensile strength.

It handles natural crotch rigging better than any other double braid I’ve used.
 
Phil said:
So the last time I ordered Samson 3 strand, I neglected to pay attention to the "soft lay" vs "hard lay" difference. I was looking to replace some promaster 1/2" soft lay but ordered the tree master 1/2" hard lay. Holy shit that stuff is stiff. Its like lasso rope. I had a hard time flaking it into the rope bag and I don't like how it knots. Very difficult to get it to dress and set because of its stiffness. I have really put the screws to the promaster I originally had and it was starting to slip in the masdam. Figured it was time to retire it from that application. I have yet to use the tree master in the masdam but I can't see really using it for traditional rigging because of how stiff it is. I was wondering how many people really use the hard lay tree master option.
Click to expand...
Was my rigging line for my first two years in treework. But I used knotless rigging then, mostly natty ....big dan steelies....slings sewn up at my sailmakers with some very durable hollow nylon webbing. Those slings were indestructable endless loops.
 
I'm a big fan of blue 9/16 atlas. Step above 1/2 but still fits in a 1/2 block like the omni.

It's got a lot of stretch so if you're needing a more static line, look elsewhere.

Hope this helps.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom