Importance of the Spring Used in Mechanical Climbing Devices

Richard Mumford-yoyoman

Been here a while
Location
Atlanta GA
Some observations on the importance of the spring for mechanical devices.
The spring is life support, very important for normal function but equally important but seldom experienced in a fall. (we hope)
Self engaging hitches and mechanical devices require a way to get friction started when things become weightless. I'm trying to demonstrate what happens to a device when we take a fall, when we experience momentarily weightless and so does the devise. In that split second when you don't have time or the presence of mind to engage a device yourself, let alone figure out what is going on, that spring must be there and do it for us.
The "spring" can have more that one form such as just the right amount of tension in a friction hitch, the little rubber grommet on the Rope Wrench tether, (auxiliary I know) or an obvious one that put puts a small bend in the rope like the bird on the Rope Runner.

 
Nice video, Richard. It goes a long way in pointing out the inter reactions and complexity of designing climbing devices. I'm still not buying the rope friction hitch/spring analogy as I believe cordadge works under a more complex set of physics.

I do believe your presentation overlooked an important component. The response to acceleration and force vectors can have substantial influence and be used to advantage in multisender designs. Gravity is a force that initiates others.
 
Appreciate your comments. It is hard to cover everything and the vector forces that you refer to would be especially difficult to express, measure and depend on in a given situation.
In cordage I am just trying to explain that there needs to be Elastic energy (the potential mechanical energy stored in the configuration of a material or physical system as work is performed to distort its volume or shape) to get things started in a properly performing hitch.
In a hitch that can be done with the tightness of the hitch as it wraps the climbing line or as I explained in one video, the twist in the cordage. Something that gives elastic (spring) energy to get the friction process going.
Another way to provide these forces is with a magnet, but I think a small spring works well.
As you point out, acceleration (gravity) and force vectors also provides potential energy to get things started.
How does one quantify and mandate a certain amount of potential energy in the force vectors you refer to? When the potential energy of gravity turns to real energy and acceleration? When everything goes "weightless"?
When the friction device is opened enough to provide a friction-less ascent but just the right amount of leverage must be specified when acceleration changes. I don't know how to do that or specify that in a device.
 
....When the friction device is opened enough to provide a friction-less ascent but just the right amount of leverage must be specified when acceleration changes. I don't know how to do that or specify that in a device.

You bring up a sticking point I have with some multisender designs. As with a cord hitch I believe there should always be some degree of contact. Even the smallest amount is enough to initiate change and response. Serious thought should be given on how to achieve this as there are many ways.

Your concern on the neutralizing affect in the weightless moment of a fall does not factor in all the forces that are occurring. A fall initiates a chain reaction of forces, where vectors, inertia and mass are all major players.
 
You bring up a sticking point I have with some multisender designs. As with a cord hitch I believe there should always be some degree of contact. Even the smallest amount is enough to initiate change and response. Serious thought should be given on how to achieve this as there are many ways.

Your concern on the neutralizing affect in the weightless moment of a fall does not factor in all the forces that are occurring. A fall initiates a chain reaction of forces, where vectors, inertia and mass are all major players.
Very true sir, I'll put in a request with the next space shuttle crew. :) (an attempt at humor, not a wize crack)

You kind of make my point, this is the stuff that is really difficult to measure, to quantify and to stipulate when manufacturing a product or factor in when you're discussing it, all you can do is say it's there. It's not like two wraps of a spring or this spring needs to be present etc.
 
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This comes to mind though and is really the way we back all this up.

Before an ascent, take a small jump, (technically everything goes weightless) hands clear, and make sure everything engages, right?
 
A few comments stand out to me Richard:
... difficult to express, measure and depend on in a given situation.
... to get things started in a properly performing hitch.
... to get the friction process going.
... just the right amount of leverage must be specified when acceleration changes. I don't know how to do that or specify that in a device.

The fundamental element is friction, regardless of what self belaying device is in use. Technically, friction is entirely dependent on the normal (perpendicular component) force applied between two surfaces. For friction hitches we think about this as in how tightly wound the hitch is around the climbing line. With mechanical devices, most of them simply pinch or bend the rope. I would think that the "spring" in consideration is better thought of as a trigger.

With mechanical devices I bet a quantitative analysis would be easier than we might think. Of course the wear on the device will eventually change it's behavior requiring a fresh clutch or links, but over the course of testing I'm sure any one of the regularly used devices would provide enough consistent behavior for meaningful results. Since the geometry for each mechanical device is more or less fixed, it probably reduces the number of variables. However, for friction hitches, the analysis may not be as bad we think since each properly dressed hitch also has a consistent geometry.

The first consideration for a friction hitch test is the coefficient of friction. This is largely an empirical quantity that depends on the materials (types of rope) as well as the interface (roughness). Even though this coefficient has a dependence on temperature, for the purposes of engaging the hitch, we can initially ignore that as a variable. Several other factors such as moisture, dirt, melt, will change this value. For the purposes of testing though, I bet that value would be consistent for a given setup during testing. I think the second quantity to consider would be the stiffness (resistance to bending) of the hitch cordage. We all know that as a rope is used, this factor changes. This last summer I bought some 9mm Technora to try as a hitch. For the first few uses it was horrible. The stiffness of that stuff when it's fresh is impressive. It did eventually "break-in", but I went back to the RIT simply because I like it better in every way. As you have mentioned several times, simply twisting the hitch cord can affect friction. It also has an effect on the stiffness. Lastly, the tightness of the hitch comes into play. As a big climber I cannot climb on a 3-1 distel. It simply tightens up too much after I've loaded it a few times and I end up needing to redress it for it to flow properly. However, with an extra wrap up top (4-1), I hardly ever have to redress the hitch. You know what the difference in the 3-1 and 4-1 is? How tight those wraps are on the climbing line. My weight doesn't change, the cordage doesn't change, the interface doesn't change (much). The amount of friction the hitch provides is the same regardless of how many wraps are in the system. With 4 wraps up top the amount of normal force for each wrap is reduced and the hitch doesn't become too tight. Of course if a hitch cord is worn adding a wrap will often help with creep, but I believe that has more to do with the freshness of the cord in that extra wrap (restoration of the initial coefficient of friction) than with "adding" force.

All of this is to say that the proper amount of friction will keep free fall from happening. All of the reputable posts and references I've learned from stress how important it is to have a properly dressed hitch. To me that translates to there being enough initial friction in the system so as to trigger the hitch into tightening up on the rope so you don't fall.
 
So in this discussion of the spring used in mechanical devices I probably imply that ALL mechanical devices should have one, not sure I intended that although that would be my preference. I most certainly want to stress that if a device has one, it is VERY important to understand how it works and make sure that it does work.
As things evolve, there is a blending of systems and a learning curve as we go from one device to another.
Simply said, if a device has a spring make sure it can apply the correct tension/friction/pressure.
Advantage to a spring is that it is consistent over a wider range of perimeters.
If a mechanical does not have a spring, treat it like you would a hitch cord based system. A hands free bounce check, with momentary weightlessness, may be required. I don't categorically remove all mechanical devices with a spring from this concept either. (Unicender for example)
 

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