Husqvarna T540i XP - Bar & Chain Options

27RMT0N

Been here much more than a while
Location
WA
Ok, so lets put this discussion in one place, bars and chains for the T540i XP battery climbing saw.

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I've been running the T540i for around a year and a half, and out of the 5 different climbing saws (4 of them gas) it is the one I use 90% of the time. Mine has a 14" bar and in my opinion the saw doesn't have the power to run a 16" well, though I don't have experience with a 16. Unlike gas saws, there aren't any performance mods you can do to a battery saw (that I'm aware of) so the only way to adjust its performance is by the cutting hardware.

Stock setup: .325" pitch, .043" gauge. Honestly seems fine. I wish it was a full chisel chain and didn't have the safety bumpers because I think it would preform better that way, but overall works quite well and I have no major complaints about it. A good system, though being a bit of an odd-ball size there are literally only two models of chain I can find that fit it. I wish there were more choices and at times couldn't find any in stock, during covid at least. Husky chains, SP21G, are $30 each.

Panther setup - 1/4" pitch, .043" gauge, requires changing the drive sprocket. Quickly after buying the saw, I switched to the Panther setup to try and get more performance out of it and have used that setup for most of the time I've had the saw. The bar is substantially lighter making the saw feel more sporty and less fatiguing to use. I was surprised at how much faster the chain accelerated from stopped to cutting speed, thanks to the chain itself being quite a bit lighter. These facts make it about the only 'performance mod' you can do to the saw. I thought it was a good improvement in cutting speed for limbing firs in particular. August notes on the page where he sells t it that the bars and chains are less robust than the stock setup and certainly that will be the case anytime something is smaller and lighter, but I've never had any problems with it. My only real complaint about the system, and I've mentioned this before, is that I find the tiny chains much harder to sharpen. Some times I get a good edge, other times not as good, and that is very annoying. It's actually why I'm looking at other options, because even if the saw CAN cut faster thanks to it being a narrower kerf and thus more efficient, without a good edge on the chain you lose any advantage it has. These chains are $30 each from MonkeyBeaver, Baileys has a compatible Woodland Pro chain for $23 but I think those chains suck, then they have a Stihl chain for $31.

Oregon setup: .325" pitch, .043" gauge. So I just bought this and put it on last night, and I haven't used it yet. I was hoping it would be a lighter setup than stock, to get some of the improvements I found running the Panther setup, but with larger and easier to sharpen teeth that I can get a much better edge on. Turns out both the bar and chain are within a few grams of each other, so no improvement to be found there. Honestly it seems exactly the same as the stock setup in every way I can see, almost like it is the exact same product with a different label. The good news is these chains, 80TXL, are $20 so a lot less than the 30 dollar Husky branded chains. I think Oregon even makes the bars and chains that are labeled Husky.

After running the Panther for well over a year, I swapped back to the stock setup recently to remind myself how it feels. I do feel the added weight and slightly slower acceleration, but honestly I think I'm cutting faster thanks to being able to get a better edge on the chain. Now I've put the whole Oregon system on to see if it feels ANY different from the stock setup. Unfortunately I'm having back problems again, so it may be a little while before I'm able to put some climbing hours on and really test it out.

Anyone else with experience to share?
 
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I quickly found that the tiny kerf that 1/4” chain creates is no bueno when cutting anything bigger than a few inches. Went back to the stock setup and have enjoyed it much more than the panther setup (Sorry August). YMMV of coarse.

I need to look but I believe I still have the panther bar and chain if anyone would like to give it a run.
 
I've kept my stock since New. Can't complain other than it binding up in bigger wood. I too would like to see a full chisel chain without bumpers. I talked to the husky reps last fall and they say they are working on it, but who knows how much of that was just fluff.
 
On the electric top handle Husky I found that the stock 14" bar/ chain cuts and sharpens just fine for me but wish I'da bought smaller batteries than the 300's - that for me is where most of the heft/ weight is. The battery not staying in contact without an electrical tape jobby (after I went for a ride last summer taking a top) is the other issue I have with the Husky battery (see another TreeBuzz thread). If I want faster cutting I just go back to gas.
 
I run panther bar and chain and never sharpen my chain just throw a new one on. Its kind of insane but I get months between chain changes because I only use that saw in the tree.

Works good for me. I'm the only one that uses that saw.
 
Ive been pretty happy with the oregon/stock bar chain sucked that I couldn't get a saw with a 14" set up from the beginning. It would be nice if the at least offered the chain without the safety rakers. I've considered going to the speedcut setup for my 193T to put a 16" bar and chain on.
 
I quickly found that the tiny kerf that 1/4” chain creates is no bueno when cutting anything bigger than a few inches. Went back to the stock setup and have enjoyed it much more than the panther setup (Sorry August). YMMV of coarse.

I need to look but I believe I still have the panther bar and chain if anyone would like to give it a run.

With the trees I work in when it comes to removals, I use the battery climber to strip limbs, take a top and then maybe 3-4 pieces of trunk wood before I switch to a bigger saw, usually an 18" 261 or 20" 400. For sure the skinny chain struggles in big wood, especially once it's been sharpened a few times and the teeth are even smaller. Maybe the kerf is so narrow that the bar starts causing drag at that point? You certainly have to push the saw into the wood a bit more rather than just letting the saw cut.

I kept the Panther setup on my saw for a long time as I mentioned, honestly think I was just trying to convince myself it was better. After recently going back to stock, I can't say I miss the Panther at all other than the lighter weight, which really only makes a difference when one handing.

The chains are the same as my gas pole saw uses if I cut 2" out of them, so at least I'm taking a loss by moving away from that system.
 
On the electric top handle Husky I found that the stock 14" bar/ chain cuts and sharpens just fine for me but wish I'da bought smaller batteries than the 300's - that for me is where most of the heft/ weight is. The battery not staying in contact without an electrical tape jobby (after I went for a ride last summer taking a top) is the other issue I have with the Husky battery (see another TreeBuzz thread). If I want faster cutting I just go back to gas.

Yep, I use the BLi200X battery. I ordered a 300 to try it out, but as soon as I picked it up in my hands I knew it was too heavy and it went straight back into the box to return. Occasionally it would be nice to have in the ground saw where weight isn't as much of an issue, but my having my three batteries the same (top handle, rear handle and pole saw) I can move batteries between any of the tools and keep the same weight/feel rather than have to 'keep track of the heavy one' which I wouldn't want in my climbing saw.
 
On the electric top handle Husky I found that the stock 14" bar/ chain cuts and sharpens just fine for me but wish I'da bought smaller batteries than the 300's - that for me is where most of the heft/ weight is. The battery not staying in contact without an electrical tape jobby (after I went for a ride last summer taking a top) is the other issue I have with the Husky battery (see another TreeBuzz thread). If I want faster cutting I just go back to gas.
It's a known issue at Husqvarna. The t540i wasn't designed for use with the 300s. They assumed climbers wouldn't want the added weight or bulk, so the tabs on the saw are slightly different than the other battery equipment. Oversight on Husky's part, but the 200x are still a good battery.
 
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So, here’s my (formerly) beloved T536LiXP. For over a year now, it’s been living in the hall closet above the washing machine since my wife commandeered it for home defense purposes. You can see that she has also used it for other various home projects, such as cutting apart the old fence for the burn pile. The chain is now slack and dull, but potentially still effective against home invaders.

Back in the day, when it was in my possession, I quite liked it except for the chain situation. The shape of the bar tip along with the chain design made cutting certain inclusions impossible. I did like the length of the bar, but had always wanted to upgrade.

Subsequently, my 201 continued to plague me with a solenoid issue, so I bought a couple T540XP units. I ran them stock for a week and had to switch out to a full chisel chain and down to 12”. I went with the Oregon Advance Cut option for bar and chain. I found this chain to be jumpy right out of the box. Everything became minty after the first careful hand filing.

Reading this thread gives me new inspiration to grab another Li model and set it up properly.

Thanks everyone for all the great info!
 
View attachment 87430
So, here’s my (formerly) beloved T536LiXP. For over a year now, it’s been living in the hall closet above the washing machine since my wife commandeered it for home defense purposes. You can see that she has also used it for other various home projects, such as cutting apart the old fence for the burn pile. The chain is now slack and dull, but potentially still effective against home invaders.

Back in the day, when it was in my possession, I quite liked it except for the chain situation. The shape of the bar tip along with the chain design made cutting certain inclusions impossible. I did like the length of the bar, but had always wanted to upgrade.

Subsequently, my 201 continued to plague me with a solenoid issue, so I bought a couple T540XP units. I ran them stock for a week and had to switch out to a full chisel chain and down to 12”. I went with the Oregon Advance Cut option for bar and chain. I found this chain to be jumpy right out of the box. Everything became minty after the first careful hand filing.

Reading this thread gives me new inspiration to grab another Li model and set it up properly.

Thanks everyone for all the great info!
201s with a solenoid issue. I have owned 6 in last 7 years. 4 in service now. So that had to be an oddity. Most of mine came from MD.....love those saws.. must try one of these Li's you guys rave on. But doubt they will handle our granite woods. Worth a try.
 
201s with a solenoid issue. I have owned 6 in last 7 years. 4 in service now. So that had to be an oddity. Most of mine came from MD.....love those saws.. must try one of these Li's you guys rave on. But doubt they will handle our granite woods. Worth a try.
Nah dred, I don’t think you’d want the Li for any heavier removal work…but definitely for pruning. I know you do a lot of that, so it may be good to add to your arsenal. Not having to fuss if someone floods your saw on the ground, starts with the push of a button, easy. Just have to remember to add oil when you swap batteries, same as when you would add fuel on a gas job.
 
@oceans , what full chisel chain have you found for the T540i? How is the 540 compared to the 536? My understanding is they are two very different saws, but I could be wrong there.

And for a slight update since I hadn't put any/many hours on the Oregon setup when I made this thread, it's what I've used exclusively for the past month and a half and it has preformed very well. Still not sure if it is any better than stock, but the chains are cheaper...

(red alder, very soft wood, but preformed great even on silly-big cuts like this)

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201s with a solenoid issue. I have owned 6 in last 7 years. 4 in service now. So that had to be an oddity. Most of mine came from MD.....love those saws.. must try one of these Li's you guys rave on. But doubt they will handle our granite woods. Worth a try.
It was a something that happened on the early mtronic 201s. It’s a relatively easy fix. Sthil even offered an upgrade kit for those. It came with the updated solenoid and an updated orange fuel filter. I keep a couple solenoids in my little saw repair toolbox on the truck.
 
Mine has a 14" bar and in my opinion the saw doesn't have the power to run a 16" well, though I don't have experience with a 16.
I bought mine with the 14" bar, which works well. I grabbed a 16" bar and chain last time I was at the Husky dealer and it's handy. Mainly when you're chunking down and don't have to switch saws (assuming it's not a larger spar). It's a little big for finer pruning stuff, but I find myself running the 16" most of the time. Probably uses the battery a little quicker on the bigger cuts.

I've been wanting to try the Oregon bar / chain as well...

Here's the Oregon web page with info on the kits and has the chain type / bar part #, etc...
https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/p..._for_speedcut_80_txl_cutting_system-imgadjtxt

The 14" = https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/p/614396
The 16" = https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/p/614399

They say they are for the T536LiXP, but will fit the T540i XP as well.
 

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