Hurting Trees

unreasonably defended that pollarding attempt perhaps--cuts were kind of stubby and rippy. kind of like my guys did mine until i sent em back to neaten up the wounds...and i am an amateur at pollarding mice elf.

Ya see, Sean old man, you did not have to get ungentlemanly and "go there"; we both knew someone at the buzz would go there for us.
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We just didn't know the woman would beat all the men to it. Nora's a writer who knows her way around a nuance.
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Vive la Liberation de les Femmes!
 
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and the crepemyrtles at 1:24 and 3:19 are pollarded quite close to acceptably--they look like my trees!



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that is interesting Guy. I've planned on planting single stem crepemyrtles and properly pollarding them along a pathway at my house for a very long time and I'm sure I will get to it someday.

and i agree, i also thought those in the vid were close to being proper and the same thoughts on the spruce type tree.
 
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single stem crepemyrtles and properly pollarding them along a pathway at my house

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This could be a major artistic statement. Did you ever see those crane-neck lights arrayed up a pole, each with a different color shade? I can see your crepes a la pollard decked up in lights to show off that bark and those gnarly knobs in the winter.

And blooming balls of foliage all summer, then that orangey fall color--Awesome!

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Try your new Sugoi on those 10-15 cm cuts--maybe easier than the 200t on those.

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10 maybe, 15 - no (for me anyway).

In my experience, to make many 15 cm cuts with a Sugoi (even poplar) requires a huge amount of brute force and stamina. All things considered, I think Frax was right to use the 200t on those cuts.

Many folk think the Sugoi and Ibuki will cut faster than the likes of the Zubat or Natanoko 2000 (slight curved blade)

but for most wood, the Sugoi and Ibuki, although larger saws....require a lot more effort to make the cut. This is due to the thicker blade, they are removing more wood (creating a wider kerf)) than the Natanoko 2000 or Zubat.

I've gone through phases of using the Ibuki and Sugoi for months on end during removals and pruning, aiming for larger diam stuff than you would normally go for with a handsaw instead of using the 200t. However, after all these times I always go back to using the natanoko 2000 as it creates the best cut for the optimum amount of effort. Natanoko -

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Having said all that, I used an Ibuki on a Redwood crown clean a few months back and it was incredibly fast through the cut, even hard dead stubs etc. So thats that, thank you for listening.
 
Ahhh!
But I was using my trusty little 192T which is perfect for softwoods! Not tired in the least at end of job. I think its a good compromise for me.
I can understand why this saw would not be good for hardwoods of larger diameters but since poplars and spruce are the biggest things we generally cut, its perfect for me!
Dying to try out my new Sugoi though... and my new steel core lanyard (my soft one is a pain on spruce), and my new climbers boots.
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I have never seen your saw Grover. Does it come with a leg scabbard?
 
Referring to the Crape Myrtles at 1:24 and 3:19, in Frax's defense, I sent her a bunch of photos that I use for Master Gardner/garden club talks and did not edit nor provide her with any background about the photos. I do explain that those examples are very close to correct pollard pruning. I have several others that are in a different folder that contrast very nicely. All the examples prove one of my axioms; Some people ought not be allowed to have sharp tools!

BTW, great job Frax!
 
Sorry to bump this again, but I did revise the vid with the valuable feedback received here to give it a more homeowner perpective. I posted on my blog yesterday at The Calgary Herald and the editor says it is getting major traffic!

http://blogs.calgaryherald.com/2011/08/10/wednesday-august-10-hurting-trees/

So, thank you all AGAIN for your contributions. With your valuable images, lots of regular folk are getting a look and maybe some hearts and minds are changing.

That's what its all about!
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