How would you save this tree?

DanielSon

DanielSon

Location
US
Hey Yall,

This tree belongs to a friend of mine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nj8FytwXzE

I am not active in PHC as of yet, but was wondering if anyone had any suggestions.

He (Don) will be watching the thread too in order to hear yalls thoughts.

If you have a lot of PHC experiance, I would love to hear your thoughts if the dieback will come back.

Thansk

Danielson=learning
 
I didn't see much root flare - Is the soil or mulch deep against the trunk?
I have similar concerns with a few of my trees. All I do is keep all the leaves on site to cycle back into the root zone. I put them in a big pile and then put them through a leaf/twig grinder then spread it back over the ground. Sort of simulating natural forest processes.
I'll let you know in 10-15 years if it's working
crazy.gif
 
From what I have seen in the vid. there is signs of the root damage. Do to the change in drainage (slope) allot of the trees water is cut off. You could try to do horizontal and vertical fert. Remove the edgeing from around the base of the tree and pull back the mulch from the trunk. While doing that see if you can find the root flare there might be a girdling root. For the fert. hopefully some else can chime in. You might want to make a climb up to the crown and see if there pest damage do to the stress.
 
Just an observation....there looks to be lots of foot traffic in the area that can lead to soil compaction.
 
Danielson and Don,

Unless I got turned around watching that vid, isn't the leaf loss on the opposite side of the not-so-recent construction?

Did you have a wind in the early spring?

That MyCop.u or whatever is perhaps code for Mychorrhizal soil injection. For $250.00, if I peeked at that correctly, you want to know what rate they're pushing, $250 for a soil injection...the product must be spendy 'cause the labour is easy.

But unless I missed my guess, that tree's just been wind scorched, battered by a persistant cold wind just when the new leaf could least manage it.

Northwind
 
nice jop on the vid.

hickories touchy about root damage, much having to do with unique mycorhizal relationships. I'd aerate both sides of the wall an, incorporate composted hickory leaves and twigs into aeration holes and blast with water. oxygen and organic matter first.

dont prune until dieback is done, then prune back to the "inner crown" (gilman) that is already showing and will be clear in a year, or two.

lots of competing younger trees--consider reducing/removing these where they crowd the hickory (what species?)

one opinion fwiw
 
If I recall, 2007 and2008 were severe droughts for Georgia. In my experience, hickory has a real hard time with drought.

The wall probably plays a role, but age and climatic factors weigh in heavier, in my not so humble opinion.

And stop making these videos asking for free consulting. Or at least take the
chaw out of your mouth while you make the video.

SZ
 
[ QUOTE ]
hickories touchy about root damage, much having to do with unique mycorhizal relationships. I'd aerate both sides of the wall an, incorporate composted hickory leaves and twigs into aeration holes and blast with water. oxygen and organic matter first.

[/ QUOTE ]

The above plus maybe consider a growth regulator? I have used cambistat on some declining oaks recently + good organic deep root fert (no nitrogen), and mulching. But I started using TGR's just 2 years ago, so I am not all that experienced with the long term results. What I can say is that the trees I treated are looking better and have dark green foliage. For the trees I treated, decline was due to drought, root damage, over thinning (in one case), loss of root vigor.

http://www.treecaredirect.com/Cambistat-Tree-Growth-Regulator-p/3102.htm

http://www.growthproducts.com/pages/arbor_care.asp?tables=featured&product=81
 
Hey Y'all,

Thanks for all your input.

GibsonTreeCare: actually, Levi Garrett! :-)

robinia : I check that out myself. It did not seem super buried. In fact, I thought that I could see a little bit of the flare.

TreeCo: yeah, I would think that too. So what do you do for that? Is that a scenario for and air spade? What is the correct process to re arrieate compacted ground?

Northwind: we didn't have as much "wind" as we did just a cold winter. For Georgia, it was colder than most. As for weeks tied it on, it's kind of all around the whole crown. It's not specifically on one side or the other. It's mostly on the top center of the tree.

Easy: Yeah,,, I ask a lot because it phc is not my expertise. However, I may start training in that direction soon. Next time--- the chaw will be gone :-)


macrocarpa: thank you for the thoughts and links. I will definitely be passing the links on.

Guymayor: Thanks for the input.

According to what I am reading, it seems that cambistat for a year, fert injected, compacted root area aeration (if possible), and no pruning for at least a year would be a prudent summery?

Thanks guys.

Danielson=learning
 
[ QUOTE ]
macrocarpa: thank you for the thoughts and links. I will definitely be passing the links on.

[/ QUOTE ]


Pass on a quote while you are at it. There is a pricing scheme on their website, and it is supereasy to apply.
 
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