How to use the F8 revolver

treebing

treebing

Been here much more than a while
Location
Detroit, Mi.
so I realized that I was not getting bored climbing SRT with the F8 revolver, and at least for my climbing style, it is hands down the most efficient and safe way to climb and work a tree that I have ever used. So, I had my friend Orin come down to the school building on my block and film me a bit going through some of its applications on a nice medium sized Norway maple.

The video is 6 minutes which I realize is painfully long for youtube, but I feel like Im leaving out stuff. Also, in the past month or so I have tweaked the configuration so it is a little more streamlined. Oh, I also reccomend the black diamond eight over a kong eight because it is metalurgically more compatible with the revolver, the kong actually performs a slight bit better but gets chewed up by the harder revolver.
here you go

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyXwrXgN0qw
 
Hey Kevin,
Lovin !! what your doing for the industry. Thanks for sharing with every one. Just curious why the length on the cordage from your attachment to the F8. Do you have a reason for the extra length, other than it doubles for a footlock prussik?
 
being a little long gives you some room for small adjustments while work positioning without running into the eight. Once the hitch hits the feight revolver it becomes harder to tend. that gap between the hitch and f8, is for when you are getting ready to make a cut but need to cinch up a bit tighter.
 
very nice !!! the more I play with this the better it gets thanx for introducing me to it. although out here in cottonwood country I'm having a hard time keeping my weight in the system on the return trip of a limb walk. but it turns into a
Z-rig so easily i guess it just poor planing on my part. all in all thanx
 
When I try to tend the slack in the system (advancing) it becomes difficult once my friction hitch hits the figure eight. Admittedly, I do not have the revolver, just a regular biner with the F-8. Does that make a big difference, is it something I'll have to invest in?
Thanks, it seems like a great system to me.
 
I haven't climbed with it yet. Only farted around with it on the ground. This video will be the beginning of the change towards more tree climbers switching over to SRT. Nice job! Thank you!
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Kevin, Are you still primarily anchoring the system to the base of the tree, or have you come up with any alternative to the running bowline that keeps the anchored end of your line "out of harms way"?


I was just thinking.... You could use a mid-line knot like the alpine butterfly to choke one side of a doubled line (like when people are footlocking up to a large diameter limb and want to reduce the spread in the rope). That way, the rope is retrievable from the ground, but if something contacts the hanging leg of line and damages it, that section of line is not actually bearing any load.

Sorry if I lost anyone.
 
it depends on the climb and the tree, during removals, or when retreivabilityy isnt that big of a priority I will just tie a running bowline at the top of the tree, or just part way down the tree so I can get it before I come down but it is not in the way of swinging limbs. Since I already have a friction hitch on my line, switching over to dDRt is very simple.

I agree with you that sometimes it is not ideal to have the anchor line coming down through the tree in the way of chainsaws and swinging limbs. I have not really used the technique your talking about but it makes sense, the tail end might get in the way a little.
 
yes the revolver is a worthwile investment, for other reasons besides this one. (i'm hoping DMM will send me a free revolver for all the advertising Im giving them) But really it does make a big difference, not only because of the roller but because of the pointy shape.
 
rich hattier discovered that you can use the new fixe pulley and a large damieter cambium saver ring and that also works. I have many thoughts of various devices that would make this system even better. they would have to be manufactured somehow though.
 
Cant quite see from your avatar who you are. This system was invented down in Texas on that job. Good to see you here on the buzz though!
 
I had a bit of a climb last week using the F8 revolver system, minus the revolver (just used a petzl pear-shaped ball lock, and it was okay). I liked the principle of the system but advancing the brake (F8) was difficult. Today I went and picked up a DMM Revolver and it really is much smoother to advance when returning from a limb-walk.
This system really is great and as has been previously mentioned, it is not particularly gear intensive, beyond the Revolver, for me anyway.
I am a definite fan of this system, awesome work!
I have had a Pantin foot ascender kicking around in my gear bag for ages, and in the past few months I've really been getting a lot of use out of it. I think it has the potential to fit in quite well with this system too.
I really like how easy it is to convert this system to foot-locking mode, brilliant!

Thanks everyone, great system and great sharing of information. Good on you Treebing!
 
Recently my configuration is a little different. I attach the tether to the same biner as the hitchclimber, and to go to footlocking mode, I take the revolver and clip it to my bridge and unclip my hitch. Basically turning it upside down. I like this better because it eliminates the clunky biner I have in the video alongside the revolver, and, having only one attachment at the harness makes it easier to recrotch.

The only downside to this method is that with the other method you never have to buck in to go from footlockmode to work mode. With the inversion method, there is a moment when you have an open gate on the hitch carabiner. I will post pics when I get a chance.
 
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