Homemade lanyard

HE_lives

HE_lives

Location
Greenville
I am a new climber and have an old buckstrap that I would like to replace the line on. I have a steel core 2-in-1 flipline, so this would be for positioning purposes or as my backup. My question is, could I use a blake's hitch with the tail of the line through the safety snap in place of the prusik? So it would consist of only one piece of rope with a safety snap on each end.
 
HE_lives said:
I am a new climber and have an old buckstrap that I would like to replace the line on. I have a steel core 2-in-1 flipline, so this would be for positioning purposes or as my backup. My question is, could I use a blake's hitch with the tail of the line through the safety snap in place of the prusik? So it would consist of only one piece of rope with a safety snap on each end.
Click to expand...

That sounds like an old school buckstrap to me.
I would recommend that you check out the more standard work-positioning lanyards that people are using. The buckstrap can lead to some awkward spots because your hitch runs away from you as it gets shorter.
But yes, that can technically do what you are asking about. (though the bend radius is terrible on most snaps and will wear your line more)
 
Thanks for the input. It's pretty old, but the snaps are in good condition. Got a length of rope cheap from WesSpur's clearance section to hopefully have another option when I'm in the thick of things.
 
HE_lives said:
Thanks for the input. It's pretty old, but the snaps are in good condition. Got a length of rope cheap from WesSpur's clearance section to hopefully have another option when I'm in the thick of things.
Click to expand...
You can tie something like a distel hitch with prussic cord onto one of those snaps and just clip a pulley(or a home depot welded ring) on behind it to have some smooth 1-handed operation in a fairlead system...
Welcome to the Buzz. Look around. Some of these guys will blow your mind.
 
Welcome to TreeBuzz!

There are years of suggestions in the archives. The search feature will turn up so much info I think you might get dizzy.

Once you decide on a lanyard configuration you like it will be easier to choose the components.

If you need a piece of gear you might make a 'wanted' poster. Most arbos that I know have buckets of quality gear waiting to work again.
 
Another option is to tie a short piece of rope on one snap that clips to your harness and tie it to your lanyard with the Blake's. It's two pieces but your hitch is always within reach, not back behind the tree.

Edit: Don't forget to put in a stopper knot.
 
Not sure I have another piece of rope that would work as a hip prusik. I have a very basic setup right now and trying to add when I can. But right now trying to see what my best option is with a 10ft rope and 2 snaps for a backup/positioning situation. What's the best knot to use with a snap to reduce the bend radius? I would likely use an anchor knot or fisherman's unless there's a better alternative.
 
Either of your choices are excellent as they both tighten up when loaded.

As far as the lanyard,maybe just tie a snap at each end and use it without being adjustable. Wrap around the tree if it needs to be shorter. I did it that way for many years when I first started.
 
Made my extra long positioning lanyard from some cordage, some cut rigging line, and a
few old carabiners. The blue screws are replaced with double action snaps now. The thicker rope has great abrasion resistance and flips better than a thinner positioning lanyard.
image.webp
 
SomethingWitty said:
That looks mean. And versatile.
Click to expand...
It's awesome, same principle as the CE lanyard with the midline Prussik below the carabiner that you can use for single leg limb isolation, or use as a short SRT positioning line that you can move to your rope bridge. Endless possibilities.
 
More from early daze;
.
Favored easy splice-ability of 3strand/hard lay, and also unique friction-hitch properties
when mated with the smaller (2leg pull) cord.
.
Key would be aligning modified pull on D by hitch,
to mimic original engineered strength/position of pull on D, when loaded.
So there whee modification to base system over time to that end.
previous to this version lanyard revved thru D, and had keychain grab, both as hard friction-hitch tenders.
(as opposed to lanyard outside and part of friction-hitch tender strategy is soft device/line)
.
also 2 fisted version/ double ended:
mytreelessons.com/images/19 foot lanyard
.
3strand backspace here is dead/end positive stop.
floating and backspace have simple, not weight bearing hardware swivels for rope manage-ment .
.
Lanyard%20Setup%20for%20KC.jpg

.
i favored flat, Tenex for climbing line friction-hitch, for how it grabs and wears etc.
In this mostly 1hand adjustment /self tending friction-hitch type builds on lanyard,
the taller sitting round profile is of course better,
>>than the flat Tenex that wouldn't get 'combed' by the tender strategy the same.
>>FLAT is stronger on the turn, because is flat ,
>>has virtually NO DIMENSION on the outer/leveraged arc of hitch cord around forced around tight bight of host line.
>>TENEX also doesn't resist the bend like harder round cords, so harder to mechanically leverage Tenex against itself on these tight bights
 
That's amazing and way above my head at this time. Didn't get a chance to climb this weekend, but can't wait to put together the backup lanyard and get moving.
 
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