Hitchclimber

Rupe,

I showed the Treemagineers a picture of my setup and Chris came up with the following change. IMO this can be the issue solver numero uno. I haven't had much chance really trying it in the real work (Aerial Rescue day today).

The following pictures are Mark's, but you can see a (maybe the) difference that does the trick.
In the first picture the 'legs' of the hitch go up the rope on the outside of the climbing line (was the same in my configuration only a different rope and a shorter hitch).

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In the second picture the 'legs' of the hitch go up between the rope and the biner. By doing this the rope/hitch is a tiny bit further away from the spliced eye from the climbing line in the biner.

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I am going to really try this tomorrow and not just fiddling about during training (maybe no need to buy a Belay Master).
 
rupe. i think i had a slight inkling today of one of the problesm you're having, i went to tend slack and the braids were snugged against the biner. it was a sodding wet day though so that might have had something to do with it
 
In my set up though I can pull the working part of the rope towards me, this frees it from any interference from the biner or spliced end.
 

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Indeed Wolter, I think that is one factor, the other may also be the way the stiching behaves. In the attached pic you can see the way a 85cm sling (33in), 10mm dia., tied as a Distel behaves. First under load...
 

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As opposed to a normal hitch tied with a fisherman's knot, the stiffness of the stiched eye keeps the sling in a more upright position.

One of the issues we are trying to address with the Hitch Climber system is to allow people to use a "top-to-bottom" certified, knot-based system: Karabiners, pulley and slings are all certified.

From an argumentative point of view versus policy makers and regulators it'll certainly make a difference whether as an industry we're perceived as sitting aroung twiddling our collective thumbs or whether we're in a process of discussing and developing viable solutions.
 
Also - I'm on a bit of a roll here - due to the shape of flare on the top and bottom of the pulley the line will lead fair into the pulley from all directions (when running over a limb for example).
 

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Third hole offers options for attaching for instance a lanyard or second system. Lots of connectors orientated in the correct direction an only one load point on your rope bridge or sliding D.

Blurry pic... sorry.
 

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Aaaaand... hauling possibilities, you might use this to lift an injured climber on his or her system by attaching a sling above the hitch and by doing so create MA making this really easy. Worth a try...
 

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I've been using the HC with 34" of HRC knotted and the 85cm sling stiched and both cords worked great with a VT variation. The HC really opens doors to positive work positioning. It also is awsome for fair leading. No more messing around with the fall end of your line, just go to work. Great product Thanks. TK
 
Chris Kramer... that is the hitchclimber, i jost got one so if ya wanna check it out in person feel free to call me.

As to the situation, i use a distel with very small legs, the issue remains that my hitch gets stuck behind my top biner. I have tried to use longer legs however the knot over time seems to loosen too much for my liking.

this is the front view if you were sitting in the saddle. notice how the hitch is "in" the biner.
 

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Matt

Have you tried moving the top 'biner to the middle hole? This tends to cant the HC away from you a bit, into the running part of the line.....

Chris

Treemagineers - all for the trees and none for a fall!
 
In the configurations shown thus far, why would the hitch climber be better than the cmi mickey mouse?

So far, it looks like that middle eye isn't doing any good. I know there are OTHER uses for this pulley. I'm just talking about the setups we've seen so far.

Treespotter- thank you for sharing the idea of putting the ends of the hitch cord BETWEEN the rope and the biner!

love
nick
 

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