Hitchclimber

Well this is the thread I've been meaning to start for a few days now. I got the hitch climber about ten days ago. Used it for a few days and know its back in the bag!

I can see how it would be good for setting up pulley systems etc but as a hitch fairlead pulley it doesn't seem to acheive anything that is not already possible with other pulleys.

Mine didn't come with instructions so am I missing something??
 
i WAS serious in my offer to come show ou how to use it rupe

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actually i agree with you....havent quite given up on it yet though, i might keep using it but run the splice eye direct to the bridge rather than back on the hitch pulley.
i like the way the hitch pulley doesnt flop about like a regular pulley.
 
Heres an Idea, with my hitchclimber that I got from Sherrill, I also purchased a Spectra Rope-grab Tether. It is rated to 6,000 lbs. and previous to owning a rated spectra, I experimented at low levels with the tether that is used in rock climbing between links on a quickdraw. The one i found was by petzl rated at 22kn.

Though this is not quite enough to be used in the Arbo world, I figured I could use the rope grab tether (page 31 in the sherrill catalog). I was just pondering the thought of avoiding this issue of having your biner interfere with your hitch. this problem is also found on the "mouse ears" pulleys.

I will work on a picture of this, but my idea consists of connecting the rope grab tether to the top hold of the hitchclimber and then using that as an extension to move the biner away from the hitch. However the issue arises of how to connect it to the pulley?

Any ideas?

I know it just means more hardware in a system however I really like the fact that when you pull on the working end of the rope your hitch doesn't "flop" downwards.
 
the only thing you have there is the bend radius and sharpness of the hitch climber that under a load could possibly cause damage to your tether. You have a very small bend radius and usually fairly sharp angled edges as with other micro pulleys.
 
I've had the HC on for the last weeks, and well.... i can't imagine going back to a regular pully for this position! I love the way the HC self tends, much better then my old system. I hav'nt had any problems with the extra biner interfering with the hitch (this may be because i have quite a long VT)]. The petzl O.K works great in this configuration.

The other thing i love about HC is the fact that you don't need to pull as many loops in the the tree to keep your rope running, you know when you climb out over a branch and descend. Because the roller in the HC is bigger then on another pulley it gives much less friction. And lets not forget having the chainsaw pulled up by the grondy....love that! Before i was climbing the petzl P05 with the VT tied to the front bridge and you can't pull a loop out the front with this config.

All in all HC has to be the finest pulley out there...and compered to that cmi mouse thing....the finish on HC is just brilliant!! DMM ROCKS!
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Why does the Petzl OK work specifically over any other Krab? Is it just that you can spin it round so that it stays on the HC ready to accept the rope instead of staying on the end the rope??

I can see how a longer hitch stops the extra biner interfering, ( was using a distel, which is quite short) but the tail and of the rope is still clamped above your hitch, instead of to one side like with most sytems??
 
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Why does the Petzl OK work specifically over any other Krab?

[/ QUOTE ]

This one is round on both ends. This means that the HC is 'parked' in the middle of the biner and not like other biners on a side because of their short gate side and longer backbone. This means the Petzl OK biner is evenly loaded.

Biners like the Gecko and Gator are meant to be loaded along the 'backbone' and not towards the gate. Putting in more than one rope (two friction hitch legs, one pulley and a climbing rope) stresses the biner the most (by the end of the climbing rope) on the side of the gate.

Using the Petzl OK with a Hitch Climber gives the most stress on the biner where it's supposed to be... In the middle (between the backbone and the gate).
 
My issue remains, I use a distel with 8mm beeline on velocity, the hitch is not very long at all, I just found I like having the hitch closer to my body and very compact. Thus, my top biner interferes with the hitch.
 
Yup, my hitch has the same problem sometimes.

Next week I'm going to buy a DMM Belay Master. Man I hate to go back to the screwgate but...

The Belay Master has a plastic clip added. If I put this biner in the top hole of the Hitch climber (gate to the right) than I hope the plastic clip will force the lower curves of the climbing rope and hitch a bit more away from the mentioned "contactpoint".

Hope this will help.
 

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