help me check my SRT work positioning system

Actually, there is no hitch climber, a have just a prussic and no micro pulley at all. just biner, beeline prussic, tenex tether to figure eight. top biner is clipped to poison ivy climbing line. Unless I am at the very top of the tree when I get hurt, the biner will not have to pass through any crotches.
 
Treebing, I know the porty and prussik look like a bit of an overkill and I actually believe that to be true with the Unicender. However, it is a carryover for when I was setting a floating false crotch for my doubled rope system.

My ground crew (wife) really likes the port-a-wrap. We have practiced with this and she has a lot of confidence in its abilities. It is a small port-a-wrap and I have never had a problem with it pulling the unweighted line except for when I am recrotching. But that is why I added the prussik so that if it did fall from slack that nothing would be amiss and it would still hold when the slack was taken up.

Lately I feel like I have been trying to catch up with Tom. I just finished 23 large Ponderosas, removing deadwood and Elytroderma deformans and my basal tie on these trees was nothing more than a running bowline with an alpine butterfly tied above as a clip in point for emergency rescue.

Not dragging the extra gear around was convenient.

Dave
 
This anchor is simple and fast to set up. Adjustable sling, munter hitch backed up with a half hitch autoblocked with a prusik. Arbor and rescue freindly,very easy to use and great configuration of hardware.
 

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Before I started using the trunk wrap for my anchor this is the system that I used.

The sling is made from coated Tenex with large plastic thimbles spliced into both ends. The aduster is made from uncoated Tenex so that it grabs a bit better. The adjuster is attached with a triple wrap prusik so that it can be used on either end. The eye for the biner is made very tight to reduce the chance of the biner slipping around and cross-loading. The choker is long enough to go around a 6' diameter trunk.

Using a four bar rack tied off with a slipped half hitch which has a half hitch thrown over the bite makes it quick and secure to setup.
 

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I had to think hard about my first SRT systems, and then Tom's pict woke me up. I think the ladder is still around here, somewhere near my gaffs. Biggest drawback was to always had to have tension on it or the whole system would invert and not always revert fairly. I think my mentor suggested a Munter Mule for rack's the tie-off.

I just put my prussik on the single rope and started foot-locking up. Then added something like Hattier/RopeWorks variable-length prussik attachment-- one of the biggest advances in the evolution of the system. Over the years, I have changed up and added and removed gear.

Today, its just the UNI and a Pantin for short hops; add in the other portions of a ropewalker for longer ascents.
 
The Frog-Climbers look so cool when they are high enough for you to lose sight of their line.
I use 8mm 30m tenex whoopie with krab and figure 8 tied with soft and hard lock, over the last year I have found it to be very light weight, compact and exceptionally easy to tie-up, lower off and untie and pack away.
After redirecting my single line around a mature oak (no central leader) I found that I had run out of line on the way down so asked a ground guy to lower me, which he did, or attempted to as there was so much friction from the tree that I didnt budge an inch. I then tied a second line to my tail and asked the heavier ground guy to pull with all his might. There are just so many variables. I liked the point about friction remaining in the descent if the line where to be dropped.
 
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I can't even count how many arbos I've seen who flip the black handle over on the GG to give them more leverage. That isn't why the handle is there. The proper way to belay/lower is to squeeze the cam. The black handle is there to unlock the cam in the case of a hard leader-fall. Once the rope is freed the proper belay is with the black handle folded over.



[/ QUOTE ]

Not according to the Petzl site. They recommend to use the lever.
 
Hello Buzzers,

Haven't dropped in for a couple of months. I read that working the whole tree on SRT is working very good for more and more people. I have been trying to peace together the system between all the postings that are out there. But still haven't got a clear picture. Will somebody please direct me to an ABC explanation post or please tell me how???

MERCI
maarten
 
I'll try to get them up this week, I must say once you get around the learning curve, (stop doing what everyone else does and find what works for your climbing style) this system is awesome!! looking at my first SRT work positioning system had all the same hardware just in the wrong configuration. I have a feeling this is going to spread like wildfire. I truly have used this system primarily all season and it still impresses me, especially from a production stand point. now its time for a better friction hitch
 
I see the added benefits of working srt but what still scares me is being tied in at the base of the tree. Drop something or something goes wrong on the ground near your tie in and your in big trouble.
 
I agree, I love the simplicity of the set up but there are alot!! of potentials to consider. I don't like using SRT with heavy rigging for that reason.
If its possible to use an alpine Btfly or cinching knot I feel a little better but you lose the whole lowering/rescue effect.
 
No, the idea is similar to a remote suspesion point. Pull the throw line until your rope hits the crotch, tie your cinching knot and pull the rope the rest of the way down. Just pull the opposite end to retrieve when your done.
Works well for a DDRT footlock access too.
 
On removals, being retrievable is a mute point. The concept of being lowered in case of an accident I like but i dont really sweat oo much about since I dont plan on being hurt and the alternative doesnt provide for that option either.

On a lot of trims, specialy where alternate lanyard acension is the best method, or where I run the risk f slashing my line in the brush, I just tie off at the top or run it thrugh the highest TIP possible and back it up through a few more crotches. (great advantage of SRT is the higer, safer TIPs)

To do a thorough prune job, you probably need to go through the tree once more anyway. Or at least I do. I also usually need to at least retrieve my block or pulley. The final decent I untie the running bowine and decend DDRT. Easy as my vt is already tied and ready.

Another plug for the leather tube cambium saver. Great for srt!
 
looks overly complicated for the anchor. Should use a longer rope for the single line and that will simplify greatly. Also, why are you using a prusik in combination with a fig. 8? Super redundant.
 
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