Heavy leaner needs to come down sideways.

Looks like the garden bed walls will come right apart, then right back together.

What are the other ground anchor options?

A heavy vehicle?

If the neighbor is not spending money on a climber, the neighbor could spring for a big rope.

If you can throw-line in a static, removable false crotch with a heavy sling, maybe a continuous-fiber lifting sling (can't think of what they call 'em), you can double the strength of the rope and avoid a knot.

If you're natural-crotching, you won't get close to equal tension on both legs, but stronger than one leg, especially if you avoid a knot.

A chafe sleeve for NCing made from tubular webbing won't hurt. Might not help.
A leather tube friction saver would be better...I'd 'polish' the inside of the tube with a rope before tensioning the guy line.

www.wesspur.com

Cambium Saver - 3/4" Capacity

DetailsLeather cambium savers protect the bark of the tree from contact with the rope and the rope from abrasion on the tree. This device has the advantage of being inexpensive and simple to install in the tree, but puts more friction on the line than Ring and Ring or Ring and Pulley friction...
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Terminate the rope with a tensionless hitch. Use a POW for the mid-line attachment.

Definitely want to lift the tree back away from the lean a decent bit.
 
The higher one can tie on the better, but no sure about any of those stems being strong enough by themselves. Maybe have to rig some together so the load is evenly distributed.

Cuts need to be made perpendicular to the stem, not like that lower cut...I would go tall face on the tension side.
 
I may get a little creative with where and how I tie in for the guy line. I have a 150-ish ft piece of 5/8" double braid to work with. I am considering pulling a bight over a branch and around a major stem back down to the ground. The line has an eye on one end and I would splice another eye on the other end. I would capture the bight and both ends with a sling of 3/4" tenex tec. I would put a rigging block on that sling for a 2:1 MA.

I would then use some 9/16" db for the 2:1 from a tree to the block to another rigging block to get a 4:1 MA. I would go from another tree to that second block to an Omni block using half-inch 3-strand. The 3-strand then goes from the Omni block to a truck.

I would use the 3-strand to put some elasticity in the system. The truck would be about 75-100 feet from the Omni block.The Omni block is just a redirect so none of the blocks are tensioned in the direction of targets like people, houses or vehicles.

Before cutting I would tension the guy line system using the truck.

I would run a 1/2 inch pull line from pretty high up the tree down to an anchored friction ring to another truck. I intend to leave a little thicker than normal tapered hinge and use the second truck to pull the tree over.

The anchor spot for the friction ring is back a bit from the desired direction of fall to help offset the lean. There's only a slight angle at the friction ring from the tree to the ring to the second truck. It should be just enough of an angle that if anything fails there won't be any targets in line with tensioned hardware.
 
When the odds are all stacked against you, that isn’t when you move forward. It is the time to rethink things or since it is your neighbor’s tree, let them solve the problem. When multiple people on this forum who do tree work all day every day say that it looks like it is a piece down removal rather than a felling problem, it might be worth considering that.

Personally, I would not try and fell that tree. If anything goes wrong the money you were trying to save them won’t seem like much compared to an insurance deductible that needs to be paid.
 
Wise words.

Homeowners' Insurance might bawk at paying a claim. I don't know.

Working with what is already on- hand is resourceful. Not always the best course of action.





I missed the specifics, is it no more climbing or aerial work.

Is a rental lift an option. Tow- behind lift possibly with a front- receiver can do wonders.
 
For some reason I thought that it was a detached garage, but looking again at the pictures, I would be looking at lifts. It's really only a few hundred bucks, and you get to take weight off without putting ANY additional forces on an already failing tree.
 
I would pull on the tree with MA, or better with a cable winch, before even getting a saw out. I can't tell how big the tree is from one picture.


Angles and equipment are super-important.

I'd like to see a couple minutes of video on the tree.
 
southsoundtree said:
I would pull on the tree with MA, or better with a cable winch, before even getting a saw out. I can't tell how big the tree is from one picture.


Angles and equipment are super-important.

I'd like to see a couple minutes of video on the tree.
Click to expand...
Are you talking about trying to pull hard enough to fail it intentionally in the right direction? Or just trying to see how much you actually have the ability with a given setup to affect its mass?
 
Here is a stump removal we did back in the day.
We winched it over with a double drum yarder operated by a Datsun 4 cyc gasser (80-90hp?). 5/16 and 3/8 wire rope set up on a MA,

I’m in the climb it and piece it out camp. There is a time and place for the big rigging and heroic efforts, this isn’t it.1015952_10201322535167642_1603572679_o.jpeg
1025405_10201322538167717_2017462632_o.jpeg
 
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This thread reminds me of so many customer interactions with people who want to feel like a man and "could do it himself if he had the time."

"What you can't just drop the three foot diameter tree right here over backwards against the lean with a hollow trunk? Why bring the bucket truck it is going to cost too much?"

Maybe I could but I do this for a living and have no interest in screwing around.
 
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