Foot lock prussick tether

jloftis, I've never experienced that before, and I use the bungee prusik all the time. But honestly, I added the bungee like a year after having the prusik, so maybe my mind knows how long it is supposed to be already, so it doesn't get tricked by the apparent short length now that the bungee is installed.

Funny thing, the mind!

love
nick
 
yeah, i should just continue to use it until i'm comfortable with it. i was also wondering about shock load, you know, like if a climber was to get struck by a falling limb or something while footlocking and fell straight into the prusik and stretched it too the end very suddenly. but i guess it wouldn't be any worse than falling into a more traditional type of prusik loop. maybe it even offers a something of an shock absorbting aspect. i guess i would just like to know more about it.
 
I would focus more on avoiding that struck by then worrying about what your prussic tether can hold. They are strong, they can hold alot. If a struck by knocks you down fast enough or hard enough to break a tenex prussic i think you'll have other issues to worry about.
 
i was just throwing out "what ifs". i mean, yeah, in a perfect world you would see every hanger in a pre-climb inspection, or you would not slip or run into bees or whatever. crap happens. i was just wondering about some of the qualities of the bungee. i wasn't really getting at a catostrophic event happening. i was thinking about that unforseen thing that occurs that causes you to rely fully on that fall safe/prusik. if that does happen does the stretch in the bungee allow for a shock load that could be dangerous? or does it have the opposite effect and cushion the fall or absorb some of the force of a fall? just questions.
 
I understand where your questions are comeing from, i was just trying to relate that the prussic is extremely strong and i do not believe you could generate enough force on a fall to break, or weaken a tenex cord.
I would think that it would absorb some of the force, but am not sure on that. A good question, anyone else have any thoughts on this?
 
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its great in a dead sprint with no stops but if you need to stop for some reason its kind of freaky.

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It was developed partly for competitions and at at time when Rob was teaching me the finer points of the footlock. I use it daily for access, If I feel that I am going to stop before the top I try to plan a spot mid pick to avoid the freeky deeky stretch your referring to. It has taken time to get used to it, but I will never go back, it is streamlined and functional to me. Personally I use work for supplemental competition training mainly because I need it- so I try to FL to finish each time.
 
how long can this prusik be used for before needing to be replaced? if somehow shock loaded, does it need to be discarded? im not too familiar with the bungie setup, i am interested in buying one though, anyone got a price?
 
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the prussic is extremely strong and i do not believe you could generate enough force on a fall to break, or weaken a tenex cord.


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How about re-phrasing the question. What is the breaking strength of the cord and is that breaking strength altered at all by being 'bungeed'?

jp
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the prussic is extremely strong and i do not believe you could generate enough force on a fall to break, or weaken a tenex cord.


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How about re-phrasing the question. What is the breaking strength of the cord and is that breaking strength altered at all by being 'bungeed'?

jp
grin.gif


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I'm sure the designers had that in mind when they designed it. I just can't believe that a 200 lb person footlocking and falling onto his prussic, even with shock loading would generate enough force to weaken the prussic.
I understand forces and a 200 lb person can generate 2-3x their weight in a fall, but still.
This is a very interesting topic, and iam curious to learn more about it. Maybe if you fell onto it everyday for a yr you might weaken it? Anyone else thought about this and have some good info!!!???
 
the bungie material doesn't hold any of the weight, i don't know if you have seen one or not familytree, but the bungie is just there to retract the slack in the tenex when it is not being loaded or stretched by the climber pushing it up the rope
 
the more it think about it the more i think it would probably be stronger than other prusik loops. i could be wrong but i think tenex has a higher breaking strength than say technora or alot of other cords being used. and from what i understand from rock climbing a little give in a fall arrest system isn't a bad thing if it can absorb some of the force of a fall. i'm just not an authority on these things and i would like to hear what someone like mahk or even rob himself would say to these questions. i'm sure they both could shed a lot of light on the characteristics of this type of prusik
 
Technora is stronger than polyester (tenex/yalex) pound for pound. The give would be good in a fall arrest system, you're right.

If strength is your concern (which it needn't be, seeing that yalex of this size has over a 5400 pound breaking strength) you should consider that this style prusik is one-legged. A typical footlock prusik is a loop, and so is theoretically twice as strong as the rope it's made of, since there are 2 legs of the rope holding you, not just one in the style we're talking about.

love
nick
 
i guess what im gettin at is, if i fall, i know the rope wont break, but will the prusik loose its bungie appeal? im looking at it like a bungie chainsaw lanyard, after a while, the bungie doesnt have much bounce, i was wondering if this happens to the prusik, and how often i may have to replace, because of the higher cost than usual prusiks, is this more of a climbing comp. thing. either way, im getting one, nick, you can expect an email brother, i know your booked, no worries, ive been gettin along without one thus far i think ill manage another 6 weeks
 
Yeah, but honestly how often do you fall onto your prussic. Not sitting on it, to take a rest, i mean falling onto your prussic. I don't think i have ever in my climbing career. Not to say it couldn't happen, maybe once in a while. I just don't think a good comparison is your chiansaw lanyard, as that is getting loaded day in and day out constantly.
I use my prussic as a tether to my climbing line in case something was to startle me and i was too fall. I usually try to footlock to my tie in point and not sit on my line, or take a break.
 
I climb w/ the butterfly two and had mostly a bridge saggin problem when locking. I've tried clipping into the side clevis but that wasn't so cool when I needed to rest, I also tucked the cord beneath my waist belt before clipping to the bridge but felt I would eventually compromise the buckle. I have arrived at using a piece of 6mm tent pole cord and taking a round turn around my waist belt that stays there prmanently... in front of the turn is a smaller loop that I thread a bight of my bridge through and slide the krab through. The elastic cord cinches down to hold the krab in place on the folded bridge which is held snug to my belt yet there is enough stretch in the extra material afforded by the round turn that when the system is weighted the is room for everything to assume regular positions w/o strain.
 
that sounds like a lot going on. have you read the first post in this forum? that way works pretty good. all it is is a piece of elastic cord tied in a loop attached from the prusik's carabiner and then passed over your head. kind of like a bungee necklace attached to your carabiner. it keeps the carabiner, or in your case the bridge, from flopping around and getting hung up.
 
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