Five coil prusik with stitched webbing sling.

Not to poo-poo on your setup....

Why not just ditch the prussic all together and use an overhand slip knot, and clip the biner/snap into the loop?

Personally, I don't go SRT enough with my positioning lanyard to put up with the hassles that go along with the prussic idea. Just my two cents.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Not to poo-poo on your setup....

Why not just ditch the prussic all together and use an overhand slip knot, and clip the biner/snap into the loop?

Personally, I don't go SRT enough with my positioning lanyard to put up with the hassles that go along with the prussic idea. Just my two cents.

[/ QUOTE ]

It's one kind of convenience vs. another. With the sling/prussik you can quickly adjust the position of the sling on the lanyard without taking the biner out of the sling loop. Sometimes when you're hanging in a tight situation that convenience counts for a lot.
-moss
 
i've done like this, even tried these type strategies before the dyneema slings with the 1" nylon loop on a 1/2" host line. Even though the dyneema is slippier, the thinner size gives it more grip IMLHO. Nick's warning is apt, and just because of the chance of slip incident in safety gear situations, i never depended on the strategy to satisfy any 1 or 2 counts for tie ins, only as my extra. This extra step/ tie in would then be for more confidance, stability, less fatigue etc. for me. Many times i applied it into the rigging line to walk said line out to it's hitch point (or back); with life line on the other side. And sometimes a lanyard underneath horizontal spar as i walked. You can get pretty quick at re-laese, pull out, and throw back around and re-snap in/ Beraneck Boomerang of lanyard. Of curse, this is another place aluminum snap/krab is better than steel, so ya don't dent your coconut. But, the farther away you have to throw it around, the heavier the aluminum has to be then...

The twist is less noticeable i think with more of a round turn on the krab. Or can be totally avoided by instead of placing sling around the host line to form hitch, making the hitch in open air then reeving the host line through the hitch. But, that is working from an end and not midline strategy. i'd do it by folding a bight backwierds around itself to form choker, then try that doubled, the odd number of turns can then be had by just placing a turn into one leg. All this while one end of the sling could be attached by krab or choke to D. Of course for that is for a size with a lot of slack, not the neat, tight pack pro-posed(like for more of a self tending strategy without slack/ drop space after self tend). For that, you could use the alternate lacing strategy in air, then seat krab. Another way is to instead of folding sling backazzwierd around self a couple of times, fold your turns inside, then invert the whole mess. This one is particularly easier keeping turns on either side on fingers as you make them, then invert to 3+2 choke/prussik. A prussik is just a kind of round turn choke on either leg (or more) to me.

i all ways tried to pay a lot of attention to the seamed area of the sling, and where it fell into place. Being stiffer, makes it more leverage-able, because this gives it more 'height' on the bent axis, and more stiffness. Both of these factors give more resistance to bending, thus more leverage-able by these 2 compounding factors. i suggest that this part be in an undistored, un-destabilized in other words inline/ straight area. Not bent in a Turn around host or krab, more at a place of connecting point between, and not even at a spread point if possible. So, that means where pictured, or perhaps at the 'crossbar' over the turns around host. Iff there are enough turns. This might be seen as a slight bend/ distortion point at best, but then would also be the least loaded point IMLHO.

Great pics, directions and stories. But would be nicer/ more user firendly, and certainly ranks; a slideshow presentation!
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Not to poo-poo on your setup....

Why not just ditch the prussic all together and use an overhand slip knot, and clip the biner/snap into the loop?

Personally, I don't go SRT enough with my positioning lanyard to put up with the hassles that go along with the prussic idea. Just my two cents.

[/ QUOTE ]

It's one kind of convenience vs. another. With the sling/prussik you can quickly adjust the position of the sling on the lanyard without taking the biner out of the sling loop. Sometimes when you're hanging in a tight situation that convenience counts for a lot.
-moss

[/ QUOTE ]

I ate my earlier words today. We were pulling storm damaged leads off a house today with a crane. It was an American Elm totally engulfed in English Ivy. I had pulled myself over to a distant lead using the ivy and needed to do the SRT lanyard thing, but only had one had free.

Oh well. I was able to get a slip knot in there.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I don't like the exposed stitch thing and have seen folks tape stitches w/elect. tape.

Rock climbing legend, Todd Skinner, fell in Yosemite because of old stitches.

[/ QUOTE ]
On what do you base this assertion?

All I have seen about Skinner's old harness is that it was
very old and worn--i.p., the belay loop. It would have
taken some explicit analysis & reporting to put the fault
at the stitching, per se, and not just the nylon loop in
general. (The evidence of bum stitching would be an intact
nylon loop material; contrary evidence would be a broken
belay loop. I think that some of those loops are stitched
all the way around (with the webbing overlapping itself
fully, for two ply).)

*kN*
 

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom