southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
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Yup just had a tree rip pretty deep and I remebered the kerf cuts. Stopped the split cold. I have one of those adjustable friction saver set ups from Buckingham. Never used it, I'll dig it out for the new season. Thanks for the reminder.
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Set the rings 3-4" apart. It's a very safe method for descending. The only method I use on spars.
Not sold on the 'Monkey tail'. Tried it several times. I made my own. Wouldn't purchase it.
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This is a very safe way as Norm suggests.
Also, a simple safe way, if you are using SRT is a running bowline with a long tail, allowing you to pull it down after descending a log length, if you are dropping logs.
The AFS is maybe the best for full spar descents.
Importantly, the AFS, used with a friction hitch is made to release you friction hitch if the tree splits, or tears down the side, hopefully keeping you from getting crushed like if you are using a flipline that uses your harness/ body to complete the circle around the tree.
[ QUOTE ]
Yup just had a tree rip pretty deep and I remebered the kerf cuts. Stopped the split cold. I have one of those adjustable friction saver set ups from Buckingham. Never used it, I'll dig it out for the new season. Thanks for the reminder.
[/ QUOTE ]
Set the rings 3-4" apart. It's a very safe method for descending. The only method I use on spars.
Not sold on the 'Monkey tail'. Tried it several times. I made my own. Wouldn't purchase it.
[/ QUOTE ]
This is a very safe way as Norm suggests.
Also, a simple safe way, if you are using SRT is a running bowline with a long tail, allowing you to pull it down after descending a log length, if you are dropping logs.
The AFS is maybe the best for full spar descents.
Importantly, the AFS, used with a friction hitch is made to release you friction hitch if the tree splits, or tears down the side, hopefully keeping you from getting crushed like if you are using a flipline that uses your harness/ body to complete the circle around the tree.
