- Location
- Port Townsend, Washington
Hi all,
I've just left a strongly-worded note over on the Tuttle thread. You might find it useful for this one. Meanwhile the short form is that proper bury lengths preclude any likelihood of splice failure; you can get away with less, most of the time, but why take that chance?
As was pointed out above, I use 24 diameters as a basis, because it is easier to calculate tail lengths. But I begin the taper earlier, and allow for 8 diameters takeup, so that things aren't any tighter than with the 21-diameter taper. This is significant because stuffing too much rope inside makes the splice weaker, as well as making it harder to run home.
As for different manufacturer's recommendations, I might be reading things wrong, but I think that New England, Yale, and Samson all use the classic long-fid/short-fid combination, varying bury based on specific splices and constructions. The techs at all of these companies are deeply conservative, but not absurd about it.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss
I've just left a strongly-worded note over on the Tuttle thread. You might find it useful for this one. Meanwhile the short form is that proper bury lengths preclude any likelihood of splice failure; you can get away with less, most of the time, but why take that chance?
As was pointed out above, I use 24 diameters as a basis, because it is easier to calculate tail lengths. But I begin the taper earlier, and allow for 8 diameters takeup, so that things aren't any tighter than with the 21-diameter taper. This is significant because stuffing too much rope inside makes the splice weaker, as well as making it harder to run home.
As for different manufacturer's recommendations, I might be reading things wrong, but I think that New England, Yale, and Samson all use the classic long-fid/short-fid combination, varying bury based on specific splices and constructions. The techs at all of these companies are deeply conservative, but not absurd about it.
Fair leads,
Brion Toss