Feedback on guying as a felling technique

[Sfoppema]

In my experience as an arborist, I don't guy lots of trees to the ground. If it's ridiculous enough of a lean or etc, we'll just climb it. That being said, I know how to fell trees with a guy line, and use that technique when appropriate. Recently, I've been working on a gig cutting/maintaining right of ways. We've been guying lots and lots of trees on a daily basis. Of course, the rules are simple enough:
-Get your guy line anchored at a 90 degree angle from where you want to drop the tree.
-If the tree doesn't have enough (or any) lean in the desired direction, also set a pull line to pull the sucker over unless you think (being certain is always better) that a wedge would be sufficient
-Make sure to remove anything that would be struck by the guy line as the tree is falling to the ground. It will either be destroyed, or destroy the rope.

We've been guying all sorts of trees, some of them massive with substantial leans (typically the biggest ones have a side and back lean in the the least desirable directions). Predominately on hilly/steep terrain.

We've been using a number of different methods, and I figured I'd like to see if anyone has any feedback/tips/thoughts. Mostly using 9/16, but occasionally 3/4" line. 1/2" static line on the little guys.

We've gone back and forth between setting guy lines higher or lower in the trees. Of course, when you're higher in the tree, you're using more rope, which translates to more stretch. Also, smaller diameter wood (higher in the tree) will move/bow which could effect the usefulness of your guy line. This is mitigated by preloading the line to remove stretch from the rope as well as from the tree, and terminating the guy line onto a portawrap, so as not to shockload the hell out of any sort of mechanical used for tensioning. Too much preloading is not good and not enough is not good. I've gotten a pretty good feel for it.

Lines set lower in the tree uses less rope which means less stretch, and thicker diameter wood doesn't tend to bow very much.

One thing I'm not certain of is whether or not the guy line anchor needs to be at the same height as the hinge of the tree that is being felled. For instance, sometimes the only anchor point available at the proper 90 degree angle is downhill from the base of the tree to be felled. Sometimes like 20 or 30'+ lower (in elevation), which makes a pretty damn steep angle on the guy line..Not the most exciting thing to be looking at in the moment! Truthfully, I've been blown away by how effective the technique has been even with steep hills with super steep angles on the guy lines. Seems to me that the difference in elevation of the hinge to the anchor does not matter, as it has been working well regardless.

Obviously, you don't want to aim your tree any further than 90 degrees or the guy line will restrict the tree, or hold it back, from falling. It will come with lots of pulling, but that's time consuming, makes you look bad, and wears you out-so aim true. Too far below 90 degrees and the guy line won't be very effective, or you'll shockload the hell (or just break) out of your rope once the hinge breaks, which it will do if you're guy line isn't at the correct angle.

I'm starting to ramble a bit..Really interested in any feedback. As I mentioned, guying has been a pretty uncommon technique in my career thus far of 8 or so years. Guying probably a dozen trees a day currently. Looking for any info/tips or any experience anyone has got!

Thanks much!

 

[Tony]

Seems to me you have excellent grasp of the technique. Mechanical Advantage (MA) is a must for all but the smallest trees.

Again for all but the smallest trees use true static rigging lines. (<1-2% at WWL is a good guideline). Use long lines, not having enough rope is a poor excuse for a mishap. As with pull lines 2/3 to 3/4 of the way up on solid wood is standard, vary as the situation tree determines.

Anchor at 90º. there is some room for error/situation. A few degrees here or there is O.K. but keep it close. If you are gunna err, err opposite the direction of fell as at least the line won't go slack. You can also get some awesome swinging action.

In my experience, anchor height does not seem to effect much. I have redirected the line quite high (20 or so feet) to avoid obstacles and had success. Generally it is just easier and less set up to have the anchor close to the ground or equal to cut height.

Plan and use the escape route as you are introducing another piece into the felling puzzle that could possibly break or cause various stuff to break as the shit flies.

Shit occasionally does break, but the technique is sound and valuable if the alternative of climbing is much riskier and time consuming In the few times I have broken things, it was always well after the fell was completed and the obstacle cleared.

Tony

 

[Merle Nelson]

@HolmenTree might have something to add if he chimes in.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i've played lightly with this in past.
Lots of variables; height of rope on tree being one; the taller range you do this with, the more pull back.
Would try to hitch target tree at guessed CoG range, fine tuning high or low from that point.
.
i consider this too dangerous (for me) in large/heavy and left it alone for the forces and wildcards (to me) it could conjure.
Size of line could be considered the mechanical fuse/ shear pin for overload, might stay with 1/2"..
Best to have ground level emergency access to cut or quick release rope i always thought.
.
In the end i saw rope and tree fiber as similar; and worked to use the Tapered Hinge as ballast restriction from the offside against sideLean; rather than external rope for same services. As a climber always looked to learn/polish lessons on ground to carry to tree top and back to felling and bucking. Once again Tapered Hinge won out as 'cross platform'.
.
Similarly, in-Tree, for limb over house type scenario i used to have a main hitch on a rig out a span to close to Cog, and anther butt-hitch to help move the target under the main support, before untying or in some cases cutting thru short expendable rope/butt-hitch; once it had helped usher the main hitch point on target load to more directly under it's support point. Eventually traded my butt-hitch for better hinging at same location; that i cut thru like expendable rope when didn't need anymore.

edit: i found this drawing ( legally old enough to vote) in my archive; kinda turns this strategy on it's side some for in-Tree usage in rigs against most highly leveraged positions for side sweep (off roof etc.):
mytreelessons.com: more leveraged turn.jpg

 

[Daniel]

If you can set one rope, you can set two, so why not use a retainer line if there is any question about side lean or hinge failure?

I like to set lines (pull or retainer) as high as possible, and don;t mind bowing the tree if there is room for a little over-compensation in the drop zone.. Generally find the technique very effective... only real issues come when there isn't a suitable ground anchor or there is another tree in the arcing path of the rope. If there is a tree in the way, I use a porty with 3-4 wraps, which is held until falling tree has momentum towards the lay. Generally three wraps is enough.

Sometimes need to get fancy with redirects or leaving a little slack in the line to compensate for ground anchor that is not at 90º ... Technique is demonstrated in these videos.. one of which was loaded with the skid steer (also used as anchor) and so much pull on the tree that it swung the tree off the desired lay slightly

tutorial

BIG HEAVY ash leaning towards the street and wires

using the retainer line on a large ash top, cut is made at about 30'

this big elm had to clear a fence with the retainer line

three lines in this one.. 2 pull lines and a retainer line that was slack for most of the fall.. tough to see of it got taut at the end of the fall, but it did