fat "outside the box" hinge

Daniel

Carpal tunnel level member
While the guidelines are ok for beginners:
"notches are to be 1/3 the diameter deep (or 80% of the width of the trunk)"
"Hinges are to be 10% the trunk width"
"back cuts are to be 1-2" higher than the floor of the notch"

There are a lot of reasons to transcend these "rules"

This oak hinge is over 25% thick and taking advantage of the full width of the trunk to keep as much fiber as possible lengthwise.

The size of those whiskers shows that the hinge had a LOT of control and stayed intact until the face closed.
What are the detriments of such a fat and side hinge?

Would @Tony condone or teach the use of such a fat hinge?

fat oak hinge.webp
 
Ok Daniel. If you're so fucking great, why don't you take a teaching and instruction position like Tony does?

For that matter, want to teach my classes too?

I'm sure you'd blow me out of the water.
 
While you can get a feel for what you can and can't do with different tree species,
what is promoted above dramatically increases the risk of barber chair.
that is the answer I was thinking of as the main concern with this hinge. The trunk was wrapped 6-8x with a short piece of 5/8" line, then a trucker's strap was cinched on top of the line to keep the trunk from splitting.
 
"Trancending rules, truckers straps, trunk wrapped 6-8 x, whiskers, and fat hinge".

I myself can't wait to hear the epic, nonsensical storyline that will undoubtedly be spun concerning this 12"-14" DBH backyard monster....

fat oak hinge.webp
 
Seems odd that the fibres are standing dead straight, the stumps I’ve seen with large fibre pull are normally bent in the direction of fall
 
We split a walnut on purpose the other day.
Playing with the more power puller over a lawn. I was sure it was going to. There's no reason for a 6 inch hinge... on an 18 inch trunk.
It was slowly split open until it got past 45 and kind of flopped over.
It was firewood anyway, so it saved some trouble.
 

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