Echo top handle saw

I'm not sure what you mean. But do you mean this one?
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Wolter
 
Hi Guys, New member and have been in the Tree Care/Service industry since 2000..Hope you'll don't mind if I bring this thread back to life. I just recently purchased the Echo cs2511T..I'm just now while coming up on 50 going to try and finally get on climbing spurs and wanted all my gear to be light weight. I am curious about the bar pictured above. Is it a Sugihara? I went to their site and it seems the 10" bar they made for the 2511 is discontinued. Does anyone have a suggestion who else makes a 10" lightweight narrow kerf bar for that saw and where they found it? Right now the saw has the stock 12" bar and chain and would appreciate any info on what mods anyone has done to this saw, how it's been working out for them, etc..I also run an older rebuilt 020t, 200t, ms361, and a 441 magnum..Thanks guys and great to be here.
 
Alantin said:
Hi Guys, New member and have been in the Tree Care/Service industry since 2000..Hope you'll don't mind if I bring this thread back to life. I just recently purchased the Echo cs2511T..I'm just now while coming up on 50 going to try and finally get on climbing spurs and wanted all my gear to be light weight. I am curious about the bar pictured above. Is it a Sugihara? I went to their site and it seems the 10" bar they made for the 2511 is discontinued. Does anyone have a suggestion who else makes a 10" lightweight narrow kerf bar for that saw and where they found it? Right now the saw has the stock 12" bar and chain and would appreciate any info on what mods anyone has done to this saw, how it's been working out for them, etc..I also run an older rebuilt 020t, 200t, ms361, and a 441 magnum..Thanks guys and great to be here.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the Buzz, @Alantin

I've never had an 020t in hand and would like to see that. Ran an 025 for a while and liked it. I started using saws a little late in life... :)

The sugi bar in the post above is made for a pole chainsaw, I believe. Guys are being creative about what they stick on the powerhead. There is a guy selling stihl bar kits fitted for the echo 2511t, but he's not responding to me. Plus, @stihlechoing is hardly a username, imo... If you are searching a site for bars that match the 2511t, you will have a hard time. If you search that sugi bar for compatibility you will likewise find it difficult. Just get the bar and be prepared to drill some holes, etc. You'll be brave than I - still running stock 14" bar and chain and wishing for a straightforward pico quartertip upgrade kit...
 
I've been running the Echo 2511 for over a year now. Great little saw, but imo comes with cheap junk for a cutting system in the USA. We get the option of a 12" or 14" bar with jumpy 3/8 lopro. The easiest fix to get a smooth cut is to run a narrow kerf setup with 3/8 .043. Another option is 1/4 .043, but it needs a sprocket swap. Be careful running different brand chains on sprocket nose bars. I had a couple of carlton sprockets explode while running stihl PM3. Sugihara is the only manufacturer that picked up on this issue.
Any narrow kerf setup should work well with the Baby Echo. I also recommend the metal bumper spikes. This saw will run circles around the Stihl 150.
 
Has anyone good good tips for opening the stupid gas / oil caps? I know you can pull the handle out against the compression and use that but ... its still pretty awkward and annoying compared to the flip up caps that are standard with Husqy / Stihl saws.

For those wondering:
I LOVE my 2511T. I normally use a 201T for removals ... yesterday I hit a couple nails with my 201 so i took up the 2511 for an alder removal. 20" diameter, 60 ft tall, overhanging a creek. Cut and bucked everything all the way with the 2511 and it didn't miss a beat.

I then took it up another tree for 4 other tip-tie + aerial rig setups ... I never actually used it, and didn't realize until 4 trees later that I had it with me the whole time! It's so light, and so nice to use.

Edit: Mine is modded/ported by the folks at Foreshore Equipment in BC, Canada. I can't remember whether or not its got a modded sprocket / bar / chain. It's outfitted with a 14" bar, and due to the size of the saw, I get more useable bar on the 2511T than on a 201T with the same size bar
 
CanadianStan said:
Has anyone good good tips for opening the stupid gas / oil caps? I know you can pull the handle out against the compression and use that but ... its still pretty awkward and annoying compared to the flip up caps that are standard with Husqy / Stihl saws.
Click to expand...

I don't use this saw but I know about the handle being a wrench for the caps. Could you get an extra pull handle and tie it on to the gas can. It will always be available for fill ups and won't have the compression and recoil pulling back on it.
 
Jehinten said:
I don't use this saw but I know about the handle being a wrench for the caps. Could you get an extra pull handle and tie it on to the gas can. It will always be available for fill ups and won't have the compression and recoil pulling back on it.
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Worth a thought ... I'm tempted to connect a retractable lanyard onto the handle ... could then keep it connected to the gas can or to a harness..

Good idea :numberone:
 
I use a t-wrench. Lay the post of the wrench diagonally between the 2 raised “grips” on each cap and loosen/snug up.

You’re right. The caps are a weak point in Echo’s design. Could learn from Stihl in this department. (Also translucent fuel tanks are nice. I hate not knowing how much gas I have left)
 
Bucknut said:
I use a t-wrench. Lay the post of the wrench diagonally between the 2 raised “grips” on each cap and loosen/snug up.

You’re right. The caps are a weak point in Echo’s design. Could learn from Stihl in this department. (Also translucent fuel tanks are nice. I hate not knowing how much gas I have left)
Click to expand...

Their whole handle / tool thing is gimmicky ... I’m sure it sounded cool in some boardroom but it’s actually pretty damn annoying. I’ll try your trick

Husky has the gas tank feature on some of their saws as well; my 562xp does at any rate
 
If the caps don't loosen easily, they were put on too tight. All chainsaws had basic caps like these for 60 years until the Stihl flippy caps. I'm a fan of the Husky flippy myself. The starter handle only comes out after my groundy over tightens the caps.
 
Before I started using the wrench to snug up the caps my 2511 dumped 3/4 of a tank of gas while I was up a tree. Smelled it before I saw it.
 
Bucknut said:
Before I started using the wrench to snug up the caps my 2511 dumped 3/4 of a tank of gas while I was up a tree. Smelled it before I saw it.
Click to expand...

^Been in the same boat. Scrench it tight for every fill up now. Stihl caps have gave me the same exp tho, always double check them.

Husq for the win!

As for the saw(2511)worth every penny
Light with nice power (modded of course)
No computer carb
Reasonably priced
After 1yr of use no stops at dealer
Fun to run!
 
Based in Philadelphia, PA and looking for a 2511t modded w 1/4" stihl ms150 12" bar. Any suggestions...even just a how-to on drilling out the bar and where to find the proper sprocket.
Thanks in advance
 
Been using my 2511T with 12" bar and .050" chain since last year and couldn't be happier. I will typically use it until the wood gets too big, which is around 10-11". The 5 minute changeover to the bigger saw when needed is nothing to fret. I had some people question it at first, but they came around once they saw it run for a while. I don't even feel it on my saddle except when I have to pull it over a branch. IF I have to one hand (like way out on the tip of something with a crazy rope angle), it's so much easier on the arms and easier to do a proper one hand technique. When the bar finally goes, I will definitely change over to narrow kerf of some form. The .050" Oregon chain is not a great match for this saw.
 
I purchased the 2511t a couple months ago. Very powerful, lightweight, and rugged.

My only gripe is that it is difficult to start, whether a cold start or with the engine already warm.

It gets so annoying that I end up just using my 193T.

Does anyone else have this problem with the 2511t?
 
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