Dynamic footlock prusik

Yep thats my one- it works well. would be nice to run the rope direct through the ring but you kill the dynamic line through heat. this design also makes descending the Fl easier as you can clip into the ring straight to your bridge to give you a nice short fl prussic..
ART have a slick version coming out soon...
 
it would be cool if art uses there rope ring combo to make something like yours DBT with continuous cordage. they could even do a screamer type stich like their snake ancor.
 
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I don't understand with such a small piece if rope what difference it makes if its static or dynamic.

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That makes at least 2 of us !
It doesn't seem like the shock-load would be reduced significantly.
Does the dynamic cord somehow grip better after an inital stretch ?
 
Using a screw link or shackle in place of the ring might make it easier to change each piece of cordage. Makes mix/match really customizable.

Stretch in such a small piece of cordage is trivial. Especially if the cordage used meets arbo specs.
 
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I don't understand with such a small piece if rope what difference it makes if its static or dynamic.

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Right?
 
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Using a screw link or shackle in place of the ring might make it easier to change each piece of cordage. Makes mix/match really customizable.


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I still can't wrap my head around the logic of prohibiting screw lock carabiners but allowing shackles. I know that the locktite thing is going to come up but the people I've spoken to at locktite say it should absolutely not be used in a life support scenario.
 
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Using a screw link or shackle in place of the ring might make it easier to change each piece of cordage. Makes mix/match really customizable.


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I still can't wrap my head around the logic of prohibiting screw lock carabiners but allowing shackles. I know that the locktite thing is going to come up but the people I've spoken to at locktite say it should absolutely not be used in a life support scenario.

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Good point, Banjo.

I'm curious to know more about locktite and not using it in life support scenarios.

Perhaps a new thread on the topic?

The instructions that came with my Ergo-Lite saddle require me to use lock-tite on the bridge shackles when replacing the bridge/adding rings, etc. I would like to know more...
 
taylor hammel had a pice of dynamic rope in his frog walker set up knotted with scaffold knots attaching his hand acender to his harness. he was explaining to me that someone ( I forgot who) did some tests and came to the conclusion that knotted dynamic climb line would handle a much heavier impact before the cams shredded the rope than ether spliced dynamic line or knotted static line. I dont remember the numbers and I know that it is a different senario than this footlock set up, but it was a short pice of dynamic line and the results were measurable.
so if that vague, unscientific, third hand information doesn't convince you I dont know what will :)
 
the streych in that dynamic edeldrid rope is massive. its only about 60cm long but stretches way way out of reach when loaded. I like the dynamiccors because its designed for falls so can be reused, stitched has to be thrown away once the stitching breaks. The ART ring opens up a few more possibilities for anchoring.
but hey its only a fl prussic, nothing groundbreaking
 
I like some simpel rope, so I can make my prusik sling JUST the right length :-) Have seen the stiched OP, but again - you can't adjust it.
The edelrid apus rope doesn't seem to stretch at all, when I put my weight in to it. I really like the idea about some dynamic in the system, but a short piece of dynamic rope doesn't seem to solve the problem. ..maybe I am wrong here ? :-)

Anyone tried a schock absorber built in to the system?
 
Edeldrid flashlight bro- massively dynamic. Played with the idea of a shock absorber but it gets in the way if your trying to fl quickly.
 
Why not just ditch the ultra static line if your worried about it. The only reason I can see for using a super static line is if your trying for Kilpatricks speed record. Also has any one ever suddenly fallen while footlocking? I understand that there is the possibility and there is technically slack generated with each lock, I can't imagine any one actually taking a whipper. The kleimheist itself will slide at around 1000 lbs. loose knots in the Prussic cord would add some stretch I suppose but I would rather just stay away from static lines period.
 
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Also has any one ever suddenly fallen while footlocking?

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Well ...... sort of .......
Three years ago at the Ontario TCC Masters, a climber was footlocking up. He stepped onto a limb part way up for a short evaluation / rest. When he stepped back off the limb the Prusik did not grab, and he fell 10 to 15 ft before it did catch. (Note: It was a Prusik; a Klemhiest is not allowed in Ontario TCC's.)
 
I'll bet that a Klemheist, even one dressed loose like competitors do, would have grabbed quicker.

The K spirals so it is 'primed' to grab with little load. The wraps of the P are perpendicular so the load has to go through an angle in order to grab.

Ken James in Aus. did some pull tests on climbing hitches years ago. In any of the configurations the P was the least satisfactory of any of the hitches that he tested.
 
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I'll bet that a Klemheist, even one dressed loose like competitors do, would have grabbed quicker.


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Ontario TCC "banned" the Klemheist a number of years ago after Wenda Li's failed during competition.

(I was not there; don't know details; I heard that it might have been an incompatable cordage problem ???)
 
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Ontario TCC "banned" the Klemheist a number of years ago after Wenda Li's failed during competition.


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I'd bet dollars to donuts that MOST hitches used in the TCC FL would fail if a climber let go. In the years that I've been involved with comps almost every climber that is in the top end will loosen their hitch. They push it up with their hands and then hold the rope and do a chinup while moving their feet up. If their grip slipped most would fall.

If a cord is too stiff it's less likely to grab as well as a softer cord.
 
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