DownRigger, Rigging Wrench (or Scarab, or....)??

[ATH]

Search turned up a few pages of each, but only one or two posts with both mentioned at the same time. Not much direct comparison.

(Have you used both?)
Which do you prefer? Or just likes/dislikes if you've only used one?
Why?
How are you using it?

Without having used either, a few things I see:
*Both can be attached midline (DownRigger looks easier to do so?)
*Rigging Wrench, for better or worse, applies a little more friction - good for slowing the fall, but this means it might also be too much to lower lighter loads...but should be easy enough to feed rope through?)
*DownRigger has higher capacity
*Both have minimum rope size of 1/2". This is a downfall, IMHO. For light rigging - which is what these are - I really like a 3/8" rope over 1/2". Do you think that would work in either? I imagine it would just give less friction, but still work??? That may favor the Wrench since it starts with more friction???

I'd be looking to use to either lower branches straight down or lower with some redirect. Possibly solo rigging with a retrievable system (just for pruning manageable trees after my helper leaves before I can find new help).

Don't make me buy both!

 

[Brando CalPankian]

I've been in the same dilemma. Have just been using a figure 8 in the mean time. I was leaning towards the rigging wrench but haven't pulled the trigger.
What about a safe block?

 

[Jehinten]

The scarab is a nice option too.

 

[Crimsonking]

For 3/8, the wrench is more likely to perform the way you’re hoping. I’d say the downrigger will give you little to no friction with that small a line.

I think the downrigger is the more versatile between them with enough creativity. Mine comes out a lot, sometimes every day for a couple weeks t a time. Combined with a ring it can increase friction, or you can use a small rigging pulley with it to maintain its original range. True for both, I suppose. If you plan out your friction and function, the DR can be used like a block in more scenarios with added benefits, whereas the RW needs clean space to function, and isn’t quite as rugged.

 

[Tuebor]

Swivel - no swivel?

 

[Factorxyz]

The Petzl spin L1D fits your rope dia. criteria. I use it lots for simple rigging, and it works great, especially for the ability to have a groundie put some MA on a piece, then I can hold the weight myself in the tree while they deal with it when it gets close to the ground. Might be worth looking into?

SPIN L1D - Pulleys | Petzl Canada

Petzl Canada. Very high efficiency single pulley with one-way rotation and swivel

www.petzl.com

 

[ATH]

Swivel - no swivel?

Not sure I care...swivel sounds nice, but dor what I'm doing I don't know that it's important.

 

[ATH]

The Petzl spin L1D fits your rope dia. criteria. I use it lots for simple rigging, and it works great, especially for the ability to have a groundie put some MA on a piece, then I can hold the weight myself in the tree while they deal with it when it gets close to the ground. Might be worth looking into?

SPIN L1D - Pulleys | Petzl Canada

Petzl Canada. Very high efficiency single pulley with one-way rotation and swivel

www.petzl.com

I'm looking to add friction...not reduce it. I can use carabiner for changing direction since they are lighter pieces.

 

[Factorxyz]

I'm looking to add friction...not reduce it. I can use carabiner for changing direction since they are lighter pieces.

This Pulley only rotates in one direction, so it reduces friction when pre-tentioning, then ADDS friction when lowering. They even went so far as to not make the sheave smooth to increase friction when it locks itself.

 

[Flying~Squirrel]

I've been using a homemade rigging wrench a bit lately made from a pinto rig, regular rope wrench and soft shackle. With 1/2" stable braid it requires a pretty large piece to run smoothly. Bigger than most tops I would want to negative rig, but nice for large branches and small logs. Takes quite a bit of effort to "push" light branches to the ground, and if you're not nearby the rigging point you can get into quite a pickle.
With a random old 11mm climbing line it works really nicely for more reasonably sized pieces I encounter when solo pruning, and double whipping big stuff is really nice because you can get quite a lot of lift by hand, if needed.

If making your own, maybe consider using the bigger version of the rope wrench. If buying the factory version, I would steer clear of the more expensive one with the one way pulley. It's a LOT of friction.

I'd also like to figure out a better attachment point for the pinto pulley, rather than a carabiner. Something midline attachable but strong and not needing to be oriented properly. I'd say another soft shackle, but then I believe you need the spacer which seems fussy.

 

[Muggs]

I use a homemade rigging wrench as well, with an X-Ring and a steel zk1. It gets the job done but not great for catching anything dynamic.

My worry with the DR is pre-tensioning, doesn't look to me like you can pull it very tight before the cut...? I haven't used it.

I have a friend who loves the Petzl L1D, raves about it. I haven't used it either.

 

[surveyor]

It may be interesting to use something like a reverse tackle within the lowering system. sort of a reverse mechanical advantage, using the tackle to create a smooth shock load release.

 

[ghostice]

The scarab is a nice option too.

Second that - recent purchase and must say it's well made and works great even to "catch" small stuff - you can even lock it off easily if you feel the need to have a sip of coffee while in the middle of some production . . . I like it . . . got mine thru Wespur. Way easier on the ropes than a stub or a munter and not as much twist city as a F8.

 

[ATH]

This Pulley only rotates in one direction, so it reduces friction when pre-tentioning, then ADDS friction when lowering. They even went so far as to not make the sheave smooth to increase friction when it locks itself.

OK...I just want looked at Petzl 1L...but needed to add the D for the Petzl 1LD. Another legitimate contender!

I'm looking to narrow options, not make more!

 

[ATH]

Not that I'm ruling out the Scarab (looks tempting) or safe block (maybe less tempting for what I'm looking for)...but the others seem like it's be easier to pull the line back through tonight a new piece each time.

 

[Brando CalPankian]

The Petzl spin L1D fits your rope dia. criteria. I use it lots for simple rigging, and it works great, especially for the ability to have a groundie put some MA on a piece, then I can hold the weight myself in the tree while they deal with it when it gets close to the ground. Might be worth looking into?

SPIN L1D - Pulleys | Petzl Canada

Petzl Canada. Very high efficiency single pulley with one-way rotation and swivel

www.petzl.com

I've been looking at these. Glad to know they're worth it

 

[evo]

+1 for the scarab, yet 8 times if 10 I just go oldschool


I too made rig n wrench and abandoned it. I’d consider the downrigger over the wrench.

The scarab is adjustable and the climber is typically right there. Small stuff can be locked off easily and self lowered. It does have a fair amount of friction and at times it’s too much.

Another option is the totem, where the stitch plate works great for 3/8ths, can even take two turns for more friction but it’s limited and doesn’t really work with any normal lines above 3/8ths in that configuration very well

 

[Jehinten]

Not that I'm ruling out the Scarab (looks tempting) or safe block (maybe less tempting for what I'm looking for)...but the others seem like it's be easier to pull the line back through tonight a new piece each time.

Not to talk you into the device, but with the scarab you don't need to pull it back though. Take it out and reattach when everything is set. The nice thing with it, is that you do not need to disconnect the scarab from the sling in order to take the rope on and off.

 

[ghostice]

Not to talk you into the device, but with the scarab you don't need to pull it back though. Take it out and reattach when everything is set. The nice thing with it, is that you do not need to disconnect the scarab from the sling in order to take the rope on and off.

Ya beat me to it . . . !

 

[Alec A.]

Search turned up a few pages of each, but only one or two posts with both mentioned at the same time. Not much direct comparison.

(Have you used both?)
Which do you prefer? Or just likes/dislikes if you've only used one?
Why?
How are you using it?

Without having used either, a few things I see:
*Both can be attached midline (DownRigger looks easier to do so?)
*Rigging Wrench, for better or worse, applies a little more friction - good for slowing the fall, but this means it might also be too much to lower lighter loads...but should be easy enough to feed rope through?)
*DownRigger has higher capacity
*Both have minimum rope size of 1/2". This is a downfall, IMHO. For light rigging - which is what these are - I really like a 3/8" rope over 1/2". Do you think that would work in either? I imagine it would just give less friction, but still work??? That may favor the Wrench since it starts with more friction???

I'd be looking to use to either lower branches straight down or lower with some redirect. Possibly solo rigging with a retrievable system (just for pruning manageable trees after my helper leaves before I can find new help).

Don't make me buy both!

I love the rigging wrench and use both models. They both work with 3/8s and 1/2, and with the 2 different models of wrench there is a variety of combinations to use for different size material. My ground worker and I use them frequently as we are a 2 person crew and being able to help run the rope from the air while he lands the brush is a big help. Also, he has used the Downrigger with another arborist he works for and says that it is much more susceptible to pitch interference than the wrench design. I haven't used the Downrigger myself.