Double-adjustable 2-in-1's

[Greg_L]

Didn't want to resurrect an old thread to ask this, so apologies for creating yet another thread on lanyards...

I'd like someone to try to sell me on the double-adjustable concept. I understand how various versions work...that's not the issue. What is the point? I can't think of many reasons when I would ever need or want one, but they seem to have become the bees' knees, and there'd better be a good reason for it. I travel super light for my climbs, and have plenty of idle gear and free saddle space to spare, so if there's a solid reason to make one, I want in.

You know. The club.

 

[JeffGu]

On rope, you don't. If you're climbing spurs/lanyard only, you have to get past the limbs. You could hold on with one hand, unclip your lanyard and move it above the limb each time. That's a pretty good recipe for becoming a vegetable. You can use two lanyards (my personal preference) or you can cut some of the weight down, avoid the clutter of two lanyards, and use a double lanyard with a single adjuster, or one with two adjusters.

They are convenient for a couple of other things, too... but since I don't use one, I'll let someone else answer that.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

I don't use a DEDA...double ended double adjusting...lanyard for my everyday use. It's in my bag ready to go for special use.

Special use??? Brushy, multi-limbs, when I need to be positioned 'just so'.

With the use of SRT I rarely need it for ascending anymore.

 

[Crimsonking]

Are you talking about having two adjusters on a lanyard for using both tails?

If so, I can chime in. I keep that setup on my saddle and use it regularly. It is most handy in trees without high central TIPs. I can lanyard in while at an angle from my tip and set another lanyard point farther out without straining as much and risking an uncontrolled swing. I can also use it to triangulate better for cuts- again at bad rope angles. When transferring from lead to lead, the second system can give more lateral mobility so you don't have to go halfway down the tree for the next lead, just to work your way back up. To make it functional, a longer lanyard is necessary. I like 20', and keep it in three equal loops- my main system, the slack between, and a loop in the second system. Choosing systems that will let slack be taken by the other is important, too, if you want to use a lot of line on one end without headache from the other system.

I like it and don't like to be without it. The secondary system often ends up beside my climbing system on my swivel.

Another plus is it acts as a quick, easily adjusted lanyard management tool.

 

[Sgriff]

You can use two lanyards (my personal preference)

Out of no where i just recently started using two lanyards,never thought I would roll like that...now,i can't imagine not having both!! Using 11.7 yale ,hitch climber and VT,keeps it fairly light vs gibbs + wire core

 

[JeffGu]

Yup, I have a real long one on the left side (25') and a short one on the right side (6.5'). Large diameter trunk, I'll use a 12' on the right side.

 

[macswan]

I have a twenty ft lanyard that I use both ends of. DEDA. It is very handy. I use both all the time for positioning.
In situations where I would be exposed to a swing if I screw up, I keep one attached, advance the next one, and resecure before unclipping the first.

 

[Sgriff]

Mine are both in 15',seems very short at times...

 

[Worthaug]

16' blaze lanyard with and ISC snap and pinto/VT adjuster on the commonly used end, with a DMM O on the other spliced end with a Rock O, Knut, and brass swivel snap adjuster. I throw a ring loop on the main end occasionally for non choking SRT positioning. I love this setup, plenty of lanyard yet very compact and easy to keep tidy, I like using both ends for the skinny tops and it offers the option of advancing your TIP.

Reed Wortley
CTSP #01739
ISA CA #SO-6953A

 

[oceans]

I found a few uses for a double lanyard, but the limitation is the overall length. What I decided to do instead of having a double lanyard set up full time was to carry the components that allowed me to use the fall of my normal lanyard of I was in a pinch. All you need is 2 oval carabiners and a prusik loop.

My normal working end is a Rock-O ORCA, and a normal Rock-O/Hitch Climber/8mm Michoacan hitch. If I have the need for the back end I simply create a second working end with the spare carabiner and prusik loop. In fact, I've used a single carabiner with the prusik loop connected into that as well, creating a single attachment point. If you want a hip to hip, you'll want the second carabiner, of course.

I so seldom use a double lanyard, but so often use a prusik loop and carabiner for other tricks that it makes sense for me to keep it disassembled.

If you make a true DEDA, the back adjuster can be a handy way of storing/managing lanyard length. If the back tends nicely, it will easily pay out into the front end, hands free.

 

[John_KAYS]

I so seldom use a double lanyard, but so often use a prusik loop and carabiner for other tricks that it makes sense for me to keep it disassembled.

You like your sparabiners, don't you?

I have a 25' lanyard and I use both ends. Mostly I use it as a mini second line, when I'm not fully DRT. I like having a lot of options for getting that perfect work position. If I need a really long lanyard, I've got it...if I need two lanyards, I've got it... I have been in situations, like macswan mentioned, where my TIP is in the other side of the tree and I am at an angle where I really don't benefit from my climbing line and I need to get passed a branch etc.

I am a big believer in a double lanyard, but it is bulkier and heavier. Before my double lanyard I would just use a long loop runner and carabiner. I would girth it around the tree and clip in to my bridge, advance my lanyard and be on my way. I find it faster to have the second lanyard option at my fingertips... more weight, but faster.

 

[oceans]

[QUOTE="oceans, post: 456639, member: 5977"You like your sparabiners, don't you?

No, I LOVE sparabiners. Preferably 2 Rock-O's...and a thimble loop, of course. I think more often I've used that to create crazy long belays with the fall of a single stationary line.

DEDA is good stuff though. I'm a firm believer that you gotta do what works for you, and the situations ou encounter.

 

[John_KAYS]

DEDA is good stuff though. Infirm believer that you gotta do what works for you, and the situations ou encounter.

"Triangles are my favorite shape... Three points where two lines meet..."
I am a huge believer in doing what works for oceans...'cause it usually works for me.

In fact my shampoo told me ocean's orders were to switch to a 2-in-1.

 

[Greg_L]

If I wasn't sold before...I may have to get new shampoo on my way to pick up a Shizll hitch tender...

 

[John_KAYS]

The shizll is the shiz niz, but you could also use a dog snap which is midline attachable. If you have splices on your line you will not be able to get a shizll on.


And then you can play with slop to make it tighter.

 

[oceans]

The true sign of a proper lanyard is to clean AND condition. Gosh. Where do you find stuff like that?

 

[Greg_L]

I've never seen anything on sterling or yale's sites mentioning "maintaining and replenishing essential oils in rope fibers"...but then again, I'm obviously just joining this bandwagon, so what do I know?

As for the dog snap, I've seen that on your harness, and if I had a spare I would. As it stands, my flipline is only spliced on one end since the adjuster is a Zillon, but duly noted.

 

[paul phalloides]

I always run two lanyards. One is a 20' tri tech with the pinto/oval/vt/prussic/isc snap and a bunch of daisy chains in the tail and the other is just a regular 12' spliced to an aluminum rope snap pre made lanyard on a petzl microcender. I keep the tail splices linked with a little biner clipped to my saddle and the excess slack thru a caritool. As I get more and more into srt I find myself using the second lanyard less often but I still couldn't imagine not having it. When it does get used it makes a real difference. The most frequent use for me (besides removals) is when I have the tri tech also running off my bridge and still want positioning from the hip ds

 

[JeffGu]

That's the big one, right there... especially in elm, ash and silver maple trees. They can be noisy. Creaks, squeaks, cracking noises that make me wonder about a TIP when I'm on the climb line, and the long lanyard on the bridge in single leg mode. Just throwing that short lanyard around the stem means that I don't have to take a big swing I wasn't ready for, if one of those TIPs should go away. After a bit, I usually get a feel about where the noises are coming from in the tree, after I start filtering out the wind noise and get more focused... but that short lanyard gets a lot of use. Like a shot of whiskey before the big race, calms the nerves so you can focus.

 

[Greg_L]

Well, I tried it out today...it didn't get in the way, cost me nothing, and I used it once, so maybe it's a keeper. Makes a fifth loop in my lanyard, which lets all the loops hang just a little higher, which I certainly liked. Thanks for all the thoughts.

Had a little revelation, while I was at it. I have a CMI micro pulley I could have thrown on it, but I use that often for other things and didn't want to have to dismantle half my lanyard for it, so I tried something else to tend my hitch, and it worked. I haven't tried it with anything but a distel hitch, but it worked, and was free. If this isn't new, enlighten me.

What I did was pass the rope through the carabiner behind the hitch, allowing the slack to be pulled at odds to the working end, just like with a pulley, except that the rope runs on the carabiner like pulling slack climbing on a hitchhiker. The trick is, the stiff sewn-eye splices are actually advancing the hitch. The eye-2-eye is short enough that the splices come up virtually right against the actual hitch, so they don't bend around and stick out at odd angles when the hitch is advanced. When slack is pulled, the hitch doesn't deform, and the carabiner pushes the splices forward and keeps the rope in-line, so the whole hitch advances without a pulley. The Shizll tender, dog clip, or pulley may be a better option for the long-term, but so far...