Does this tree need to come down?

Winchman

Carpal tunnel level member
Neighbor's tree looks healthy but he's concerned about the odd growth at the split which appears to be attracting woodpeckers.
Bob1.jpgBob2.jpgBob3.jpg
One side is close enough to hit his house. There's plenty of room and he has permission to drop it on property next door. Does it need to come down?
 
I’ll second what Southsound says, put a cable across between the trunks to reduce the risk of an eventual split, and keep an eye on it.

Woodpeckers generally do not drill into a tree for no reason, they’re looking for bugs, so it may be worth taking a look at the tree for an insect problem while you’re putting the cable in.
 
I could make a climb to remove some dead limbs and take some measurements, then another climb to install the cable.

I'm guessing 1/4" galvanized steel cable inside reinforced rubber hose placed twenty feet above the union with a turnbuckle to apply some tension would work. Does that sound about right?
 
I could make a climb to remove some dead limbs and take some measurements, then another climb to install the cable.

I'm guessing 1/4" galvanized steel cable inside reinforced rubber hose placed twenty feet above the union with a turnbuckle to apply some tension would work. Does that sound about right?

Doesn't sound right.
 
I agree with removing the tree. The specimens structure is designed to fail. Take it out now before it grows heavier and taller. There are other trees in the background. Maintain them and remove this one
 
Just for the sake of poking the bee hive.

No tree HAS to come down.

That union has potential to split, but it does show good reaction wood. Is it enough?

If cabling, I’d likely go for 3/8ths EHS through bolted and at least one 5/8ths brace rod above the Union placed one to two stem diameters.

Do it right, your installing for the life of the tree if it’s going to be retained aim for “over built”. Sure you could get away with 1/4” common grade. But the price difference jumping to 3/8” is negligible...
 
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If cabling, I’d likely go for 3/8ths EHS through bolted and at least one 5/8ths brace rod above the Union placed one to two stem diameters.
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That rod is certainly cheap and easy extra insurance. Since a split hasn't started to open, that frankly may be enough and is less likely to fail than a cable. But with one that simple, why not cable it too?
 
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That rod is certainly cheap and easy extra insurance. Since a split hasn't started to open, that frankly may be enough and is less likely to fail than a cable. But with one that simple, why not cable it too?
Exactly
 
That rod is certainly cheap and easy extra insurance. Since a split hasn't started to open, that frankly may be enough and is less likely to fail than a cable. But with one that simple, why not cable it too?

I’ve installed rods narrow stem bifurcation in lieu of cable. Worked a treat!
 
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I have done so too when it forks too much to get a cable in wood with enough diameter to hold anything. I like to do a little more load reduction when it is just a rod...
 

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