Do chains dull when the get too hot?

BBBTree

BBBTree

Location
CA
I was bucking wood today, and I noticed that as the chain was starting to get dull, the oil was cutting out to the chain. Then smoke was coming from the kerf.

So did the lack of oil and excess friction over heat the teeth, and dull the teeth? Or was it the suddenly dull teeth that caused the excess friction which over heated the chain and carbonized the saw dust onto the oiler then stopping the oil flow?
 
I would say dullness caused the heat. With a sharp chain the bar moves through the wood and heat is absorbed by the fresh wood. Just my own deductions.
 
The best time to sharpen your chain is when it's hot.

First thing I do when I run out of gas is grab my file and touch up my chain to keep it razor sharp.

One of the few times I prefer to wear thick gloves!

jomoco
 
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x2. I have noticed that if a saw is run dull the heat created on the chain will they start to harden the dull teath making it difficult to sharpen.

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this heat of running a dull chain tempers the steel, making it harder, thus harder to sharpen. Loss of oil will not dull the chain. Dirt, rocks, concrete, steel, even included bark within the tree will.
 
BBB I really don't like filing a chain when it's hot. Your close to the muffler and it's hot. Buy files by the box and keep them on hand. Stop using the saw when it is dull because you'll temper the tips, use a different saw if possible. Nice to have a vice somewhere on equipment or use a stump vice. Good luck and hope this helps.
 
A sharp chain will do the work for you.

The second i have to lean into the saw for the cut i will stop and touch her up.

Hopefully one or two file strokes per tooth and she's good to go again.
 
No kidding? That's great. I can handle little touch ups. I was thinking stopping the operation for 10 or 15 minutes to do this.
 
Words to live by... "never sharpen a dull chain. Put a razor edge on a sharp chain." It does take only a few minutes, and actually gets your chain through more wood before it needs to be replaced. Also puts less wear on your bar, and less fatigue on the user. Also safer, since you have more control over it. I'm an absolute believer in stump vises, and use the Husqvarna sharpening guide every three or four sharpenings. Whether you sharpen it hot or cold, tension the chain first, so it doesn't wobble on you. And pay attention to the rakers. If a sharp chain doesn't cut right, take a flat file to the rakers, and use a guide to bring them down (typically every three or four sharpenings).

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Over tensioning your chain to sharpen it is unnecessary if you have a plastic felling wedge to stuff between bar and chain intermittently.

Every pro logger I know runs their chain somewhat loose.

Get it while it's hot and see if your file takes more with each swipe?

jomoco
 
Hmmmmm good advice. I'm going to try the files tomorrow at work because I don't really feel like going to the garage, and grinding some chains this minute. It's already 9:25pm, and I have been swamped all day. I started this morning with a blown out tire on the dump truck. I had to take that one home, and took off the blow out and two more shabby looking tires off if the DTruck. Put them and the gear in the pickup, and put the chipper on the back. Dropped the tires at the tire shop, and arrived 3 hours late to the job. Finished at 4pm, picked up the tires, and threw all the logs and all three tires on that dump truck.

Then I had to run all the way back out there to get the last of the logs, tools, and chipper, because I couldn't fit it all on my pickup in the first trip.

We're looking like hack city in our corner of the wood, but I sure do this faster than any hack would.
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And safely too.

Hey, thanks for the advice again. Good things always come from the good advice.
 
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