dead 460

SimonCX

SimonCX

Location
east coast
My stihl 460 died today, almost new maybe used it 5-6 times. At first the rpms wouldn't go up and would bog down and then it just died. Checked everything and it will not start, I think it a carb or fuel line problem because I tried starting it for a while but 3 times I pulled the spark plug and it was bone dry. Bad day, first a trailer tire blows then this, all I needed to make were 2 cuts to finish.
 
It's dry black at the spark end and wet dark brown by the threads. My dad went to make the first cut and it bogged down to almost shutting off when giving it rpms and after a couple times it just died. Now it won't start at all and it doesn't sound like the motor is turning over. I picked up a husky 575xp on the way home just so I could finish up and have no down time until the 460 gets fixed. I'm kind of Pi$$ed becasue the saw is bascially new I only used it 5-6 times since new because I only use it on wood bigger then 25".
 
Try installing a new plug and see if its getting spark. It doesnt sound like it, but pull the muffler and look for scoring of the top end. Couple places to start, good luck! Keep posting we'll help you!
 
It sounds like you've lost compression. Had the same thing happen to my 372 Husky, a piece of carbon build up broke free and dropped into the cylinder.

Do you use synthetic mixing oil? That should take care of the carbon deposit.

Kind of odd for it to happen on a new saw.

I bought a big bore kit from Bailey's and have had good luck with the saw so far.
 
It loooks like the cylinder is clean and no visable scoring on the head. I'm starting to think it the coil because I'm not getting a spark.
 
I tried a new plug and still the same thing, I checked the fuel line and it looks good but after pulling it to start about 20 times the plug is bone dry and it should be flooded by then. I'll be checking the carb tomorrow and I'll see if the coil is the same in any other saw so I can swap them out to see if it's good. If not I'll be picking up a new coil and fuel filter. What do I look for in a sheared keyway?
 
Take the flywheel off and see if the keyway is still attached or if it is missing.

You have the plug grounded in some way while checking for spark right? I usually lay the electrode on top of the cylinder.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Come to think of it, bet it is the coil.

Do you have a stihl parts saw?

The coils are pretty much the same from one saw to the next.

[/ QUOTE ] I only wish that were in fact true but unfortuanately it isn't .Stihl uses about a zillion coils ,almost nothing interchanges .

In fact on some models they may in fact use several types depending on the year of build .


On that saw ,take the carb apart and look for a plugged screen in the diaphragm area .On rare occasions some foriegn material can sneak through the filter and plug that screen tighter than a bull's butt at fly time .

Fact is I'm at war right now with a Husqvarna 2100 that has the same problem .As it stands now,Huskey 3 ,Al zero .
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Bummer about the coil thing.

Al57, you sound like you know your way around a saw. Coils provide electricity to the spark plug right? Is it possible to swap one out with another saw for the sake of diagnosis?

How about squirting a little saw gas in the cylinder. If it starts you have carb problems.
 
Yes indeedy ,do the fuel in the carb first.That should tell the tale .

The problem with attempting to swap a miss matched coil is the fact they simpley won't bolt up to where they will work .Some will fit but with Stihl they are rare .

In addition to that the flywheels must match with the coils because of the magnet placing and where the flywheel keyway is placed for ignition timing purposes .Usually in cases where Stihl may have used multiple coils they also list different flywheels .Good ole Stihl never adhered to the KISS principle [keep it simple stupid]

If you do try and check for spark by pulling the plug make certain the plug is grounded .Best to use a jumper with aligator clips or something .

Often times with an older saw the kill switch wires may have became bared causing problems .I would doubt that would be the case on a saw this new though .
 
Finally found the problem, after sitting at the dealer for 3 days not touched I took it home and took it apart. The head and piston is fried, looks like the rings went and scored the piston and head badly on one side. Anyone use the big bore kit from baileys, I was thinking of ordering it because the stihl parts are going to be double the price.
 
BB kits are nice in stock form. Not going to be a WOW! factor like you may expect. They are well built and will last.

If you plan on modding that saw, stick with the stock piston and cylinder. The consensus among builders is that they can get more out of a stock P&C han a BB kit.

Good Luck!
 
I'm not really looking for that wow so that really doesn't matter, I was looking at the kit because it's $109 and my dealer wants almost $300 for the parts. I was wondering if the parts are well built from the baileys kit.
 
Whoa,stop the presses .I would think that if this saw were as new as I presume it is by the discription that it should be under warrentee unless there is more to the story .

If there is more to the story and the ball is in your court the thing most likely could be repaired any way .

For some unknown reason it is thought that the cylinder /piston must be perfect ,not so .If that thing cleans up without extremely deep gouges in it ,new rings and you are back in business .Those cylinders are much more tough than you might think they are .

I suppose about 10,000 purists will argue with me on this but I've saved a bunch or them that were in a shape most dealers wanted a kings ransom to repair them . Surprisingly they all have pretty much full power also . Of course what the almighty Stihl directs it's dealerships to do and how things are in the real world seems to differ widely .
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Al

That is good advice, if the scoring is only surface deep. Post some pics so we can see what you have going on.

As for the Stihl comment........not sure what their like in your neck of the woods, but Stihl NEVER tells me how to charge for or repair a saw.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Al



As for the Stihl comment........not sure what their like in your neck of the woods, but Stihl NEVER tells me how to charge for or repair a saw.

[/ QUOTE ] Perhaps not but if you look in the standard proceedures as prescibed by the Stihl corp they recommend replacing the piston and cylinder as a unit . I have the IPL's and proccedures on micro fiche btw .

Of course this is the fool proof method of assuring the saw would be in tip top condition ,very admirable .

How some ever as I said before it is not always a neccessity .

I have not a clue how the local yokels do the repairs but I get them after the owners get over their sticker shock .The local dealers or should I say one because I don't deal with the others ,just order the parts .I turn the wrenchs ,everybody seems happy .

Now don't take my comments to be a slap in the face of a dealer .They have to make a living too . I just do this stuff because I enjoy it .Were it a business I would soon tire of it .
 
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