Cutting an unstable tree

Deryk Fournier

Deryk Fournier

I have looked at a few sites and found a few different ways of cutting a tree that might not be the most stable to climb. Not sure about the in's and out's of using a TIP on two trees either side of the tree being removed and would like a little more info. If any one has experience with this and would like to share I think I could benefit from hearing from you. Thanks
 
may need some more details on the what your looking for about the two TIPs and the unstable tree. putting people in a tough spot to comment, no one wants to give someone advice that may lead to an accident.
your in good place to come when looking for info tho.
 
You are probably thinking about a high line between two adjacent trees that your life support is tied into. If you're unsure back off. Some searching about high lines may help you out. Good luck and be safe.
 
One thing to try to do before climbing into the tree is to try to stabilize the tree with the use of (multiple) rigging lines tied high in the questionable tree and the use of a high rigging points in surrounding trees (with a block) tensioned up with grcs. Even this is no guarantee, but it may help. It is not easy to say no to a job, but sometimes you have to. I've got a partially failed Bigleaf Maple (can see about a two inch hole on one side of the stem in the soil where the stem has failed) for a good client. Noone else can do it...gonna use all my tricks and have the customer sign off on a damage waiver as we will have to fell the tree and may damage stuff nearby as it is a side leaner.
 
or possibly guide lines to keep the tree from falling in the wrong direction for a notch and drop.
We have used multiple lines base tied to other appropriate trees to insure a hazard tree falls in the correct spot.
 
Not sure about the detail requested in the original question, two single lines base tied throw line installed is the quick way. If you've never done it, do it lots.
 
There is no tree to climb, just looking for more info on the subject and looking to try it out on a stable tree before I need to use it. If any one knows of some good literature online that might be helpful that would be great. Thanks everyone for answering back. Just getting started in the tree climbing...have been doing primarily bucket work for the last few years. Thanks agian
 
part of the conversation should be learning to recognize signs of an unstable tree. Some species may look fine, but have unstable roots (dead ash in particular).. others may have lots of visible decay and yet remain plenty strong to climb...
 
Kind of obvious but any wood/root that's dead will rot and depending on soil conditions it could become unstable in as little as three years. Wood rots quicker in the ground. That's primary structure all the little white roots loose their grip sooner. With live trees you can take the root strength as mostly good and check for above ground weaknesses. Once dead you have entered the twilight zone. Dig up the roots for a look, sound the support roots, give the tree a pull test or drill it. That's about all you can do then the big one for me was once I declare the tree safe to climb don't worry about it until more information is learned during the climb.
 
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boreality said:
Kind of obvious but any wood/root that's dead will rot and depending on soil conditions it could become unstable in as little as three years. Wood rots quicker in the ground. That's primary structure all the little white roots loose their grip sooner. With live trees you can take the root strength as mostly good and check for above ground weaknesses. Once dead you have entered the twilight zone. Dig up the roots for a look, sound the support roots, give the tree a pull test or drill it. That's about all you can do then the big one for me was once I declare the tree safe to climb don't worry about it until more information is learned during the climb.
Click to expand...

With live trees be looking out for signs of girdling roots or grade elevation that buried the root collar. I've seen maples with full foliage, looking healthy yet having no root structure. They fell over in some minor winds.

I've used two tips in trees that were directly opposite the damaged tree I was removing. Loaded them up so as not to put any weight on the subject tree. Worked out quite nicely.
 
We did a crane removal last year that sounds pretty close to what you are talking about. My co worker basal tied a static line to each tree on either side of the removal. They were tied to a rigging plate which was then hoisted up between the trees and directly above the tree which was being removed. His climbing system then ran through the rigging plate which was conveniently centrally located. There was obviously a little give in the set up, but it seemed to work out pretty nicely.
 
That's an interesting thought. Working off a stabilized ball. Creates a whole new world of rigging possibilities. The operator could go for lunch or switch to ground worker.

Anchorline/speedline, spreader bars etc.:cool:
 
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