Crane Removal-Tulip Poplar

[ QUOTE ]
I don't know of a friction saver on the market yet that meets a 4:1 bend ratio.It may be more a concern when the ropes are used at a maximum work load and closer to the tensile strength.

[/ QUOTE ]

In order to keep the maximum effeciency in a rope the bend ratio is very important. Working at the light end of the scale, with only body load, the radius is less important.

You must have had a REALLY dirty rope in order to put grooves in the gear. Do you wash your ropes?
 
I absolutely do.I even throw in the fabric softener. This was quite some time ago, maybe ten years. I was going up and blowing the tops out. I would just carry up a "tag" line that was to be used later to drop the spar. I would just ride down on a figure 8. The tag lines were old retired climbing lines, pieces that have been drug through the dirt of clearing jobs.These were some wild times. I was young and did lots of crazy things trying to "prove" something and get ahead.
 
Hey Jimmy, Maybe I can get BJ to stand on a scale in front of us. He did say he thinks his scale may be broken at home. Only about a month ago didn't he tell you that he was up to 265LB? Will give him credit though, he still is able to move around the tree. /forum/images/graemlins/sumo.gif
 
You forgot to mention without breaking too many branches! I just put on an old pair of the power blues, still a little tight.
 
BigJon

In the second photo of you making the flat cut, it appears in the photo that the tip of the bar is protruding from the opposite side of the tree below your safety lanyard! (Such that your safety will be attached to the piece of wood that is to be lifted away.) Am I wrong in assuming that, is that intended or are you actually cutting above your safety? Hard to tell from the flight of the sawdust.
 
I am defiantely cutting above my lanyard there. If the tip was below my lanyard I would have cut clean through it. I would have remembered that. It's hard to really see where I am cutting there. There may have even been a stup or sucker that I was zinging off before I made my cut. Yes using the top side of my bar because that is the side of the bar I would be using to make the cut. Using the top of your bar packs sawdust in the cut kinda lifting the wood and keeping the kerf open. Not a big deal so much on the smaller wood.
 
Thanks for the clarification, BigJon. I saw Mark Chisholm demonstrating that cutting technique keeping the sawdust inside the cut. I realized that I'd unintentionally been using that method on bigger wood.
 
Another thing I like to do is with limbs coming straight out that you dont want the but to jump out when cut it is to come in underneath level to ground creating a shelf for it to sit on then come down from the top. Pay attention to how the wood is reacting and adjust how your cutting. Always be watching the wood and see what side it is closing from and come around from the other side. Keep tip in on the wood and cutting. Dont bring the handle in so far that the tip is being left behind in the wood that is closing up on you. When is starts closing bring the saw in and out so your opening up your cuts as it closes down on its self behind. If done correctly when cutting the spar pieces you should be able to cut straight through right out the other side clean.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom