Last fall we did a sugar maple right at the corner of a deck, with landscaped yard at the base, and on a hill. This would have been helpful for rigging out the last 15-20' of the spar. In the same token, it wouldn't have handled the weight unless it was rigging out itty-bitty pieces. Very cool idea though. I can see a benefit with a GRCS .... if it could handle more weight.
Crane for rigging
- Thread starter Sloth
- Start date
Daniel
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Suburban Philadelphia (Wayne)
how much weight can it handle and how long does it take to set up???
I AM thinking it would be best to tie in above it... that's pretty obvious...
I AM thinking it would be best to tie in above it... that's pretty obvious...
- Location
- valpolicella
It can handle 200 kg.... It's weight is 16 kg. but is in 2 pieces 8 and 8 kg.... about...... when you are ready for cut the stem, you set a sling with a pulley and a rope..... the ground man lift and send you the first piece and when you have set the first, the ground man lift and send the pole.... and all is ready.... need about 5-7 minutes.....
I've called with the name gave from the producer....
Last edited:
- Location
- valpolicella
I've a new video about it.... https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1983390945221412&id=100006515763411 what do you think?
You can see only how works... How must be set, i'll post just i found an good video... https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1983390945221412&id=100006515763411
You can see only how works... How must be set, i'll post just i found an good video... https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1983390945221412&id=100006515763411
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
Looks like the red "arms" should be higher and lower, with 2 ratchet straps.
The top of the pole should have a friction bollard, rather than a block.
The friction bollard only needs to be a bit above the center of gravity of the load.
The top of the pole should have a friction bollard, rather than a block.
The friction bollard only needs to be a bit above the center of gravity of the load.
flyingsquirrel25
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- South East, PA
Didn't like the movement in the "crane" in the first video when the piece came off. The strap was either too loose or the piece to big. Seems like there is too much that can go wrong.
- Location
- valpolicella
You are right...... maybe tight at middle of the piece cause all the movement..... and the "crane" "T T RED SPIDER".... bend dangerously.
But i think bend every time...... i think the straps was tight good...... the load is very limiting, max 200 Kg. The piece cut i think was less.... but the movement is very worrying.
I've open this tread for understand, what oversea's people think about this tool. I think is good only for, maybe, 1-2 job a year.....
I respect your opinion about FB but this i've posted only for show you how works...... The "tool" need only where crane can't arrive or for arrive costs a lot..... where you have a tree to fall with a lot of decay at the root collar an you cant put down all free without break nothing (shop, garage, deck and other staff) and you can't work safe with the classic negative rigging..... so, with this tool you fall with positive rigging..... more safe and with about totale controll.
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
southsoundtree
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Olympia, WA
A cut-in visor plate like a GRCS would add a lot of stability.
With multiple lowering points, you might have multiple Working Load Limits.
With multiple lowering points, you might have multiple Working Load Limits.
- Location
- valpolicella
Good develop.... for the cut i'll do the classic cut that use every time when fall with a crane..... so the piece don't move and move only a little when you lift it. For the bollard on the pole don't is possible otherwise the pole can't slide down into its casing when you must move all for the next piece..... when i found a best video i'll post immedialtly so you can see how do for the next step after you have cut the first portion of trunk....
@Sloth, Thank you for taking the time to present this tool to us. Very interesting indeed! My GRCS and this tool could literally do wonders. It does have it's place in the industry, ie. tree surrounded by a deck, with no nearby rigging points, or crane access. How hard is it to reset for the next pick? If you install it in two pieces, can it be reset in one piece?
- Location
- valpolicella
Thank you.
Associated with GRCS is the top...... actually the rigging rope go from the top to the base of the trunk and redirect with a sling and a pulley, for be fixed in a point away from the area where you are working above. and using a block and tackle for lift the piece..... and for control all on the rigging rope, near where you have fixed block and tackle, you set an discensor that must have the right WLL...
The producer used the D4 produced by ISC.....
You are right.... i've forgot to mention another situation to use it: when no nearby rigging point (usually other trees).....
Yes can be reset in one pices.... I don't try the tool on the tree... i tried only on the ground.....
First thing you disengage the pole from its casing lowering it leaving it in its casing.... second you slack the strap and let it slide down moving little right and left just to the next point where you must set it..... The casing have a joint for do easy the setting of the pole....
Here i post some other pictures that i've take when the guy presented the T RED SPIDER... so you can see better and understand better the tool......
I think the big fault is the second strap.... with only one ancor point the pole bend every time.... with 2 the pole i think will be a lot of more stable..... Like said from Southsoundtree
In the last pictures you can see better the casing-engages of the pole.... when you assemble you put the pole throught the casing from down to up and engage it in its joint.... when you must re-set all disengage the pole from his joint and lower it and leave it stand on its casing... i hope is little more clear
Associated with GRCS is the top...... actually the rigging rope go from the top to the base of the trunk and redirect with a sling and a pulley, for be fixed in a point away from the area where you are working above. and using a block and tackle for lift the piece..... and for control all on the rigging rope, near where you have fixed block and tackle, you set an discensor that must have the right WLL...
The producer used the D4 produced by ISC.....
You are right.... i've forgot to mention another situation to use it: when no nearby rigging point (usually other trees).....
Yes can be reset in one pices.... I don't try the tool on the tree... i tried only on the ground.....
First thing you disengage the pole from its casing lowering it leaving it in its casing.... second you slack the strap and let it slide down moving little right and left just to the next point where you must set it..... The casing have a joint for do easy the setting of the pole....
Here i post some other pictures that i've take when the guy presented the T RED SPIDER... so you can see better and understand better the tool......
I think the big fault is the second strap.... with only one ancor point the pole bend every time.... with 2 the pole i think will be a lot of more stable..... Like said from Southsoundtree
In the last pictures you can see better the casing-engages of the pole.... when you assemble you put the pole throught the casing from down to up and engage it in its joint.... when you must re-set all disengage the pole from his joint and lower it and leave it stand on its casing... i hope is little more clear
Attachments
- Location
- United Arab Emirates
Interesting post.
Little spelling errors - manifacturer's opinion should be manufacturer's opinion.
Little spelling errors - manifacturer's opinion should be manufacturer's opinion.
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